Transmission Slipping?

[lanep82]

Check your temp also. I thought mine was slipping last summer but ended up just having some junk in the intake from underneith the boat (never beaching boat again) which was causing the temp to heat up and therefore at high RPMs or when the boat was 'working' hard, it felt like slipping.

[gotta_ski]

I've seen them slip when they had water in the tranny from the boat being partially sunk. (Thankfully not my boat) We changed the fluid, ran it for an hour, then changed it again. The slipping went away. I think my buddy got lucky on this one though.

[Kyle]

Originally Posted by Scot

Is pump replacement considered a typical part of a rebuild?

Generally no. And ebasicpower told me that. BUT I rebuilt mine and it did the same thing as it did before. I had to remove tranny again and put a pump in. That fixed it.

I am glad though that I replaced the internals with the rebuild kit. I was easy and gives me peace of mind. Also I found a clutch that was missing a steel plate in the tranny. It came from the factory built wrong. I know 100% that no one had been in mine previously as well.

I would replace your pump.


It is not worth going to a 1:1 stay with a slot.

Save your change and buy heads, cam, and intake. I am rolling 47 mph with a slot after my engine mods. It is much stronger than the factory 285 1:1 boats. I drive RiverRat's 205 with 285 and 1:1. My slot pulls much harder. Top end they are pretty much the same.

[Kevin 89MC]

FWIW, when I first got my boat, the trans started slipping one day, mainly in turns and starting out. Noticed I was a bit low on fluid. Filled it up, that cured it, then happened again a few weeks later. Took it to the shop (before I got into wrenching), they found that the seal around where the shift linkage goes into the trans had a small leak. Got it fixed, had them put new clutch pack in (existing ones were about half worn out), no problems after that. Just another spot to check for leaking in case anyone else has this issue.
Good luck,
Kevin

[Scot]

Originally Posted by Kevin 89MC

FWIW, when I first got my boat, the trans started slipping one day, mainly in turns and starting out. Noticed I was a bit low on fluid. Filled it up, that cured it, then happened again a few weeks later. Took it to the shop (before I got into wrenching), they found that the seal around where the shift linkage goes into the trans had a small leak. Got it fixed, had them put new clutch pack in (existing ones were about half worn out), no problems after that. Just another spot to check for leaking in case anyone else has this issue.
Good luck,
Kevin

Again, I am mechanical but not much of a transmission guy (tranny guy just doesnt sound right). Correct me if I'm wrong but isnt doing clutch packs basically pulling the tranny and doing an overhaul?

I am contemplating whether to do it myself or not. It looks fairly simple if you have a manual. My only concern is pulling the thing. It looks way too heavy to pull by hand and I dont have an overhead pulley system. How hard is it to get out? And what about installation, is alignment a big issue?

[Scot]

Originally Posted by Kyle

I would replace your pump.


It is not worth going to a 1:1 stay with a slot.

Save your change and buy heads, cam, and intake. I am rolling 47 mph with a slot after my engine mods. It is much stronger than the factory 285 1:1 boats. I drive RiverRat's 205 with 285 and 1:1. My slot pulls much harder. Top end they are pretty much the same.

Thanks for the advice, that is what I wanted to hear. Engine mods will be down the road. Do you remember what cam you used? I want good top end without losing much down low.

On a related note, I have always thought it would be fun to build a full on race motor for a tournament boat. You know, if I had a lot of extra cash to do foolish stuff with, just for fun. Anybody ever seen that? Curious what kind of high speed performance you can get out of these boats. As long as I have one to ski with first.

[Kyle]

First off a race motor would probably not be a good idea. I don't think that these boats would handle high speeds. I hear that after 50 they become a little scary and dance around.


Ok for tranny questions.

1) you don't need an overhead system. It is only 150-200#.

2) once you remove the electrical and the prop couplers are separated you can remove the tranny mounts from the stringer. You should be able to pick up on the tailshaft of the tranny rotate the engine level. Put some 2x4 blocks under the oil pan to keep the tranny up. At this point the tranny should only be 1" or so from the stringer. Unbolt it and slide her back.

3) get a friend or what I did was a come a long to the rafter of my storage facility and made a harness and picked it up. I had no extra help and it is not worth dropping it trying to man handle it. You will be able to pick it up but it is just easier to hoist it out or have someone help you (not the wife it gets heavy and you don't want to drop it)

4) I have a manual if you need instructions. I can scan to a PDF.

5) the pump can go on 180* backwards. Mark the pump and the bell inner housing so you know how it lines back up or how the new one should go in.

6) remove the pump and o ring

7) remove the first part of the case of tranny. Pull out all clutches that are big. This is the reverse clutches.

8) keep digging deeper and a hole clutch assembly will come out.


It is not hard but I recommend instructions. I am very mechanically inclined and I used the instructions. There are some clips in the rebuild kit that are certain thickness and need to go in the correct places.

You can either take your time and do it yourself or once it's out you can drop it off at a tranny shop. Either way.

[Kyle]

I have the cam card and all specs when you need them.

Some people will tell you go bigger than a factory 285 HO cam.

Mine is the factory indmar 285hp cam, Edlebrock performer intake with 1" spacer, gt40p heads.

If you can afford to, I would remove both engine and tranny now.

Rebuild the tranny.

Send engine off to have it freshened and when you get the rotating assembly back bolt on the new parts.

Iirc I did phntmski in my friends list. Machine shop and all parts was in the 2,500-3k ballpark.

It will save you from having to remove tranny twice.

[Scot]

Originally Posted by Kyle

Ebasicpower.com is where I got my rebuild kit from. I think it is the cheapest place to get a master rebuild kit.

When I did mine I assembled everything and had the same problem. My clutches were worn and needed replacing but my front pump was bad. So I had to remove the tranny and put a pump in. It worked very well after that.

Kyle, what is included in the typical master rebuild kit and what else might I need? I am finding seperate kits with snap rings, clutch plates, etc, and I am confused. I would think I want all of these things for my rebuild, right? I am also planning on replacing the pump, damper, and cooler as it seems like the thing to do, right? Thanks for all your help!

Planning on pulling this thing on Thurs. this week and digging in as soon as I get parts. Also, that manual would be very helpful as I wont touch anything inside until I have one.

[Kyle]

Let me scan a manual for you first

No need to replace the cooler. Those either leak or don't leak. If its not leaking then its prolly fine. How old is your cooler? The damper prolly is fine too. Mine is the factory damper. No need to replace that unless you just have severe MCOCD.


The pump is the pump.


The kit comes with all plates and clutches. It also includes all gaskets, seals, snap rings.

Here is what I would do. Print out the manual and put it in a binder.

Dissassemble the tranny over the weekend. Mark the pump so that when you install the new pump it will be in the correct position. If you install it 180* off then forward will be reverse and reverse will be forward. This means removal again to loosen 4 bolts, spin a pump 180* and re tighten. Just take a sharpie and mark the pump case to inner bell housing so you know how to reinstall. It's not hard.

Once you get the clutches out and everything apart look at the book and note any broken or worn out pieces.

Order the kit and extra pieces that may need replacing. There is a washer and some brass pieces that I replaced that were not in the kit.



Now after you have this dissembled get on

Www.ebasicpower.com

They have the same kits as everyone else for less money. They have the kit break down of what is included. They also have a piece by piece way of ordering too.

They are online only so not great if you want someone to hold your hand through customer service hence cheaper prices.

Order kit, pump, extra parts if need be (I broke a spring clip during disassembly so wait to order until it is apart, I had 2 orders and shipping due to that clip that was .50 and $5 to ship)

Kit will come fast

Reassemble and go down the road.

I did this on my garage floor. A bench would have been very nice but I didn't have one and it sucked. I left the entire tranny internals in order as I pulled them out (different gears, clutch sections, and casings). Waited for my 2 shipments and put it together.

It is not brain surgery.

If you need to take off a section or piece and label a zip lock Baggie of bolts then do that.

I normally throw everything in a bucket and remember what bolt went where.

The manual will label every piece and show you how to assemble it. If you can read and follow directions then I'm sure you can DIY.