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  #11  
Old 10-19-2018, 12:30 PM
Baron515 Baron515 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 2008 X2
Location: Middle East
Posts: 15
Its a complete assembly from PCM, its the same setup on Nautique boats. There is a low pressure fuel pump which sucks fuel and fills a container, and a second high pressure pump which is in the container submerged in fuel and supplies the engine. The high pressure pumps dont prime or suck petrol very well I believe so need to be submerged. With this setup the fuel pressure regulator is located on the fuel rail, this makes it easy for me as the motor I installed already has this. But I dont see why you couldnt add a regulator between the pump and fuel rail.

If you need more info or part numbers on the PCM parts let me know.
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  #12  
Old 10-19-2018, 01:02 PM
Baron515 Baron515 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mastercraftdave View Post
Great project. I will be following this.

What the outside of the boat look like.
I honestly dont have any current photos from the outside. But its not in great shape, the gelcoat needs a good polish and im going to redo all the upholstery.

Here are some pics from 6 years ago when I bought it. It had many hours on it, and upholstery was in bad shape already. when the engine failed I didnt have the time to work on it, I trusted it to a workshop that went bust and I lost the original motor because of that. 6 years later its time to get her back to former glory.

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  #13  
Old 01-12-2019, 11:26 AM
Baron515 Baron515 is offline
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Boat: 2008 X2
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Update, this project is taking longer than expected as I haven't had much time recently.
I managed to sort out all wiring issues, the main boat wiring harness broke apart due to the heat so had to replace it. A few other issues here and there but have now got everything done including the cooling system.
So I started it up to check everything works, it does! It felt very satisfying to hear it fire right up. I didn't let it run for long as it was dark and wanted to double checked everything and make sure there were no issues.

Today I tried starting it again, it didn't fire up so quickly this time, I made sure the fuel pump was properly primed, but still took some time. When I finally got it running something didn't sound right, it was running for just over a minute before I shut it down, when trying to start it again the starter motor seemed stuck and wouldn't turn over, just click.

I took off the starter motor, and noticed that part of the starter motor seemed to be ground away be the flywheel. Circled in below picture. I compared to the original starter motor from this boat which is identical, and found that the same area was ground away, but seemed to be done purposefully by someone as more was cut out. I decided to do the same to the new starter motor, but figured something was not right without really thinking it through still.

So the main problem is somehow the starter motor sits too close to the flywheel, so even when it is 'disengaged' after the engine starts it is still in contact with the flywheel and starts spinning with the engine, I believe this is why the starter motor jammed up in the first place as its obviously not supposed to be spinning that fast for so long.
Thinking there must be something different about this new starter motor, I replaced it with the old one (after repairing with a new solenoid). It was the same.

Does anyone know what my issue might be? Is there supposed to be a spacer or mount between the bell housing and the starter motor that im missing? Is this the wrong starter motor and the previous owner was also using the wrong part somehow? Or is the new motor somehow got a flywheel that sits further forward?

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  #14  
Old 01-12-2019, 12:03 PM
Baron515 Baron515 is offline
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Red face

So there are flywheels that are meant for top mounted and bottom mounted starters?
I did not know this
So I either need to pull the motor out again and replace the flywheel? Or would there be a way to solve this? Could I get a different starter motor that mounts below the motor? Or would that also require pulling the motor out to change to a different bell housing?
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  #15  
Old 01-13-2019, 04:11 AM
Baron515 Baron515 is offline
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Feel quite silly that I didn't identify this issue earlier.
Anyway Im placing an order for a bottom mount starter, and will cut the existing dust cover to allow for it, It seems I can get it done without pulling out the engine so I feel like it is the best option considering a starter motor is also cheaper than a new flywheel.
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  #16  
Old 01-14-2019, 12:18 AM
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gwozhog gwozhog is offline
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Damn I would be so bummed about that. I take it your existing bell housing looks similar to this one where itís notched out on the bottom. Otherwise I would think the starter might hit the bell housing when you try to install it.
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  #17  
Old 01-14-2019, 12:23 AM
Baron515 Baron515 is offline
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Yes it looks like that, made sure to check there was space to bottom mount the starter. I will have to extend 2 wires from the harness to get down there too.
Is there a plate that should cover the top mounting hole? Or do I just leave it open?
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  #18  
Old 01-14-2019, 12:50 AM
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sand2snow22 sand2snow22 is offline
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Why not get a bottom mount bell housing from PCM?
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  #19  
Old 01-14-2019, 02:09 AM
Baron515 Baron515 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sand2snow22 View Post
Why not get a bottom mount bell housing from PCM?
I dont see why I would need it really as the existing one allows for both. I would rather avoid spending as much as possible at this point, and also the hassle of pulling out the motor or transmission to replace it is not very attractive either.
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  #20  
Old 01-14-2019, 05:00 PM
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Wicker68 Wicker68 is offline
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Are you reusing the stock bellhousing? I couldn't tell from your post. Because your boat was originally an SS, it would have come with a top mount starter. This was to bring the starter a little bit further away from potential salt water in the bilge. I used to have a pic of the two different starters side by side but I can't find it.
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