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  #11  
Old 01-04-2019, 02:12 AM
tomosocanoso tomosocanoso is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1984 stars and stripes
Location: Canada
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayR View Post
I might be in the minority but I would urge caution with how much you put into the boat. Unless you got it super cheap(and even if you did) you could quickly end up very upside down. I would suggest getting it mechanically stable and just use and enjoy it for a few years. If you want, shop hard and find another in original condition with low hours, then sell yours for what you can. Also, On the original dogbone seat. I have never been a fan and in general the early mastercraft seats are not that well padded or comfortable. The set up that you have looks decent. just my 02. good luck with your project.
I paid $5000 Canadian which converts to $3707 US. I think I got a fair price, the trailer is quite smart too.
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  #12  
Old 01-05-2019, 07:41 PM
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jayR jayR is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Boat: 1988 prostar 190
Location: Boston
Posts: 162
Great Price, good luck with the boat. Also, what I was referring to was more the hull and trying to bring that back to original. To me, the amount of time and work would just not seem worth it, especially with a boat with limited value. Maybe its different in Canada.
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2019, 08:24 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: 93 190
Location: lake
Posts: 12,375
I've spent a lot of time with these era boats, have a few spare parts, and a few ideas of what I would do with your objective(s) in mind and considering that you have it taken apart to this extent.

First fix all of the leaks. There is no such thing as a slow leak. A leak is a leak when it comes to dripping in the bilge. Fix them all and have a clean bilge to enjoy, that being anytime you set hand or foot (or eyes) in the bilge... it's clean. I hate working on a dirty / oily boat.

While the transmission is out, (and the drive shaft can be removed) put in a drip-less seal system in place of the packing gland system. You'll have not only a clean bilge but also a dry bilge. From there on out your engine and everything else will stay clean and dry. While the shaft is out, put in new cutlass bearings in the strut. That is important.

Looking at the dash, I see a few extra holes in the dash panel and a tachometer is missing from the dash pod. On the dash pod there should be two speedometers and a tachometer in the middle. I have a spare tach I'd be willing to part.

The hole in the dash panel (right side behind the steering wheel) can be filled with a neat bluetooth device and you can then stream from your electronic gadget through any internet music provider. That will fill the hole nicely with a nice accessory. That gives you leeway and a music option to get rid of the eight track tape player (or marine radio) on the dash. Worry about the mounting holes later.

Get rid of the mirror on the dash and replace it with an original mirror and bracket combo.... I have a spare one of those as well that I'd be willing to part with. That will clean up the deck behind the windshield a lot.

The seats are to my liking a lot. The 1968 models actually have seats like (or similar) to those. The 84 OEM seats base for the passenger is what it is, but the straight bench (as you have now) gives you a lot more leg room. Every square in counts in the small hulls.

A guy in Louisville, KY USA has a passenger seat base that needs work but is repairable. He just bought it off me last week and is willing to part with it for shipping cost only.

An OEM style steering wheel is readily available from Amazon, Jeg's, Summit Racing, or other sources. The OEM is made by Grant and they still make the same wheel.

The floor is not what you think it is underneath the carpet. That floor system is not on stringers and made of ply-board. You can cut the bubble out and re-patch that section, then carpet over it or other options but don't expect to be cutting out a piece of flooring (per se') and fit another piece back in. It's not a hard fix but also not a typical fix.

New wiring in the entire boat (and I mean everything...strip it bare) will give you peace of mind when on the water. Easy to re-wire as I have several schematics on how to lay in a nice run of wire from the engine, up the hull, and then tie into the dash as well as re-wire at the transom for the fuel level sending unit, the blower, and the stern light. Use tinned wire and heat shrink connectors as you go. I have wired a bunch of these things over the years and can attest it's not hard to do. Just takes a little time and patience. And while you're there, add a dual battery system to have two batteries for extra peace of mind. That will also require an upgraded alternator from the OEM 51Amp unit that is there now. I like to install a 105amp output unit to re-charge the dual bank of batteries. Look for a Blue Seas system.

New exhaust can be complimented with new exhaust hose(s). If those are OEM or old at all, they will eventually separate on the inside and create a problem. Put in new hoses now while you're there.

Don't forget to check the lag screws that screw into the transom and on into the cross-section of the floor. The platform can work loose over time. This will require removing the fuel cell, cutting out the floor (maybe a 6" x 6" section) and using thru-bolts and backing plates to repair it better than new. Not a hard job at all but be cautioned of removing the platform brackets. Take extra precaution and measures to break them away from the gel coat on the outside of the transom. The gel can easily stick to the bracket and peel right off the boat. With extra precautionary measures, that can be prevented and save a lot of extra gel and cloth work............ Been there too.

Make sure the rear engine / transmission mounts are operable in both vertical and horizontal directions. Repair or replace before you reinstall and find out one or both are seized. You have to have the motion of the mounts to re-align the drive shaft to the transmission to a specific tolerance to prevent any vibration.

While the transmission is loose and you can roll the engine upward on the two front mounts, look at the oil pan and inspect for what may be a rusted spot to leak sooner or later.... good time now to work on that if it is an issue. You can also forego the engine movement (on the front mounts) and use an inspection mirror to look at the bottom of the pan.

When you put the transmission back in and get ready to couple the shaft and transmission flanges, remember to align the engine to the shaft. Do not set the engine in place and expect to snug up and align the shaft to it expecting the shaft to fit properly. Set the engine, couple the flanges loosly, then align the engine to the shaft. If that does not make sense, read again or ask before you put it all back together. This is important to get it right or you'll have to take it all apart again.

I have complete write-up(s), photographs, and wiring diagrams for all of this and more if you need them.

Your mileage may vary but now is a good time to do a lot while you have the transmission out and the engine mobile.

Best luck. Looking forward to updates as you go.

.
.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 01-05-2019 at 11:00 PM.
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  #14  
Old 01-05-2019, 10:05 PM
tomosocanoso tomosocanoso is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1984 stars and stripes
Location: Canada
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayR View Post
Great Price, good luck with the boat. Also, what I was referring to was more the hull and trying to bring that back to original. To me, the amount of time and work would just not seem worth it, especially with a boat with limited value. Maybe its different in Canada.
I actually had a think about the paint job after your comment and it did make me think is it really worth it, maybe something to consider in 5 years time or when it really needs doing. At the moment body wise, I'd say the small chips and dings are really the most important, so I'm going to focus on them and try and colour match them as best I can. I really want to get the stars and Mastercraft logos on the boat too, I want people to know exactly what kind of boat this is when I'm at the lake because I didn't see one all last year and I feel I get the odd glance but when they see the logos hopefully they'll be more interested. May sound silly on a non perfect paint job to get the logos on but I think they would look great.
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  #15  
Old 01-05-2019, 10:54 PM
tomosocanoso tomosocanoso is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1984 stars and stripes
Location: Canada
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
I've spent a lot of time with these era boats, have a few spare parts, and a few ideas of what I would do with your objective(s) in mind and considering that you have it taken apart to this extent.

First fix all of the leaks. There is no such thing as a slow leak. A leak is a leak when it comes to dripping in the bilge. Fix them all and have a clean bilge to enjoy, that being anytime you set hand or foot (or eyes) in the bilge... it's clean. I hate working on a dirty / oily boat.

While the transmission is out, (and the drive shaft can be removed) put in a drip-less seal system in place of the packing gland system. You'll have not only a clean bilge but also a dry bilge. From there on out your engine and everything else will stay clean and dry. While the shaft is out, put in new cutlass bearings in the strut. That is important.

Looking at the dash, I see a few extra holes in the dash panel and a tachometer is missing from the dash pod. On the dash pod there should be two speedometers and a tachometer in the middle. I have a spare tach I'd be willing to part.

The hole in the dash panel (right side behind the steering wheel) can be filled with a neat bluetooth device and you can then stream from your electronic gadget through any internet music provider. That will fill the hole nicely with a nice accessory. That gives you leeway and a music option to get rid of the eight track tape player (or marine radio) on the dash. Worry about the mounting holes later.

Get rid of the mirror on the dash and replace it with an original mirror and bracket combo.... I have a spare one of those as well that I'd be willing to part with. That will clean up the deck behind the windshield a lot.

The seats are to my liking a lot. The 1968 models actually have seats like (or similar) to those. The 84 OEM seats base for the passenger is what it is, but the straight bench (as you have now) gives you a lot more leg room. Every square in counts in the small hulls.

A guy in Louisville, KY USA has a passenger seat base that needs work but is repairable. He just bought it off me last week and is willing to part with it for shipping cost only.

An OEM style steering wheel is readily available from Amazon, Jeg's, Summit Racing, or other sources. The OEM is made by Grant and they still make the same wheel.

The floor is not what you think it is underneath the carpet. That floor system is not on stringers and made of ply-board. You can cut the bubble out and re-patch that section, then carpet over it or other options but don't expect to be cutting out a piece of flooring (per se') and fit another piece back in. It's not a hard fix but also not a typical fix.

New wiring in the entire boat (and I mean everything...strip it bare) will give you peace of mind when on the water. Easy to re-wire as I have several schematics on how to lay in a nice run of wire from the engine, up the hull, and then tie into the dash as well as re-wire at the transom for the fuel level sending unit, the blower, and the stern light. Use tinned wire and heat shrink connectors as you go. I have wired a bunch of these things over the years and can attest it's not hard to do. Just takes a little time and patience. And while you're there, add a dual battery system to have two batteries for extra peace of mind. That will also require an upgraded alternator from the OEM 51Amp unit that is there now. I like to install a 105amp output unit to re-charge the dual bank of batteries. Look for a Blue Seas system.

New exhaust can be complimented with new exhaust hose(s). If those are OEM or old at all, they will eventually separate on the inside and create a problem. Put in new hoses now while you're there.

Don't forget to check the lag screws that screw into the transom and on into the cross-section of the floor. The platform can work loose over time. This will require removing the fuel cell, cutting out the floor (maybe a 6" x 6" section) and using thru-bolts and backing plates to repair it better than new. Not a hard job at all but be cautioned of removing the platform brackets. Take extra precaution and measures to break them away from the gel coat on the outside of the transom. The gel can easily stick to the bracket and peel right off the boat. With extra precautionary measures, that can be prevented and save a lot of extra gel and cloth work............ Been there too.

Make sure the rear engine / transmission mounts are operable in both vertical and horizontal directions. Repair or replace before you reinstall and find out one or both are seized. You have to have the motion of the mounts to re-align the drive shaft to the transmission to a specific tolerance to prevent any vibration.

While the transmission is loose and you can roll the engine upward on the two front mounts, look at the oil pan and inspect for what may be a rusted spot to leak sooner or later.... good time now to work on that if it is an issue. You can also forego the engine movement (on the front mounts) and use an inspection mirror to look at the bottom of the pan.

When you put the transmission back in and get ready to couple the shaft and transmission flanges, remember to align the engine to the shaft. Do not set the engine in place and expect to snug up and align the shaft to it expecting the shaft to fit properly. Set the engine, couple the flanges loosly, then align the engine to the shaft. If that does not make sense, read again or ask before you put it all back together. This is important to get it right or you'll have to take it all apart again.

I have complete write-up(s), photographs, and wiring diagrams for all of this and more if you need them.

Your mileage may vary but now is a good time to do a lot while you have the transmission out and the engine mobile.

Best luck. Looking forward to updates as you go.

.
That was an epic post waterlogged and funny, I'm the guy that messaged you on Facebook about the passenger seat, Kyle is helping me out and looking to get it and the driver's seat shipped up. It seems everyone really likes my interior, I just don't like the un originality of it. I would probably like to go to the original interior again at some stage, maybe when this one wears out.

There was water coming in to the bilge last year and I don't exactly know where it was coming from. The rudder has play in it so I'm re sealing that and putting a new wear sleeve in, and will see if that helps matters. The exhausts were cracked slightly which I fixed but that's why I'm replacing them, they could well be the originals, I will be replacing all the exhaust hoses too, especially the ones I had to cut off the exhaust manifolds 😂.
The dripless packing gland I'm not so sure about, I've heard Ron Tannis talking about them possibly failing then causing further problems but a dry bilge would be nice.
I'm installing a sea water strainer as an added piece of insurance for the cooling system too, the boat is fresh water lake use only but I've heard the strainers can be good for catching any unwanted debris clogging up the system and oil cooler in particular.

With regards to the dash there is a speedo missing, I have 1 speedo and a tach, oil pressure, water temp, fuel gauge and voltmeter. The boat came with a perfect pass which I think is why there is a hole in the dash, its currently not installed but I would like to get it back on.

I actually quite like the mirror on the dash I thought it was original but not sure? I do have a larger seperate one that attaches to the window frame, maybe I mounted it incorrectly but I found it got in the way of my forward view visibility as it's considerably larger than the dash mounted one.

With the wiring, guess it's a hard question to answer but how necessary do you think that is for this age of boat? Everything works as far as I can tell but at this age I guess there's no guarantees. Electrical work is the type I'm least experienced in and daunts me the most, especially a full re wire like this. I like the sound of having a fully re wired boat but it scares me too.

I will speak to previous owner about the transom lag bolts. All I know is that the swim platform is detachable, I detatch it so I can fit the boat into my garage it slides onto two holders, not sure if this is a normal set up, may have to take some pics for you.
I do want to clean transom area up as it's quite a mess at the moment to be honest and who knows maybe water is getting into the boat from there but hopefully not. A picture will show you what I mean.

Thanks for all your advice I do really appreciate it, you just might have to convince me/push me a bit more about the re wire.
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  #16  
Old 01-05-2019, 11:32 PM
tomosocanoso tomosocanoso is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Boat: 1984 stars and stripes
Location: Canada
Posts: 12
Transom and fuel tank area pics
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