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  #11  
Old 10-01-2018, 10:35 AM
Cumminscj Cumminscj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olaff View Post
The dash does not come right back on. It may take 20 or 30 seconds before it restores.
I'm thinking the starter is causing an over-current somewhere that is tripping a thermal or auto-resetting breaker somewhere. That the Bendix is locking up occasionally, creating an overcurrent and tripping a breaker. Then the breaker is restoring once I leave it alone for a while. How do you lubricate a Bendix?
OK, You have a bad connection somewhere. There is no self resetting thermal. You need to just start taking connections apart and cleaning them. IF someone has put temporary terminal ends on it at the battery that is usually where the problem is. Please keep in mind if you have a perko switch you need to unbolt it from whatever its bolted to and clean and check the connections on it. Somewhere you have a dirty or bad connection. At this point don't worry about if its tight, just take it apart and clean it.

Of course if you can get someone to help you and turn the key while you test for voltage while they turn the key you can track it down with a meter much quicker. Just keep in mind you are looking for differences in voltage. So you will want to check the cable end one time and then the stud the next. Then the next cable in line on the same stud.
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  #12  
Old 10-01-2018, 11:35 AM
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JimN JimN is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olaff View Post
Yep, just one click. Not the ta-ta-ta-ta-ta you hear from a battery with low voltage.
The dash does not come right back on. It may take 20 or 30 seconds before it restores.
I'm thinking the starter is causing an over-current somewhere that is tripping a thermal or auto-resetting breaker somewhere. That the Bendix is locking up occasionally, creating an overcurrent and tripping a breaker. Then the breaker is restoring once I leave it alone for a while. How do you lubricate a Bendix?
The old way to test a starter involved touching the stud with the battery cable on the solenoid, but don't leave your finger on there for long- you can be burned.

Battery cable ends can look new and be bad inside of the insulation from corrosion.

The starter needs to be removed in order to lube the Bendix.
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2018, 01:09 PM
Rebel Skier Rebel Skier is offline
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Olaff, what did you learn?
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  #14  
Old 10-15-2018, 09:14 PM
RWojo RWojo is offline
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Thanks all. Iím having the same problem and was just about to post out questions. Pretty frustrating for a 2016 boat with 120 hours when itís loaded with people ready to hit the lake.
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  #15  
Old 01-03-2019, 12:09 AM
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Olaff Olaff is offline
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I havenít fooled with it again. We got busy with vacation and holidays and now it is cold and rainy. Iíll pull the boat out of the garage when itís warm and sunny in February and get it figured out.
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  #16  
Old 01-03-2019, 05:17 AM
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CruisinGA CruisinGA is offline
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I’ve had a battery cable look great on the outside with clean and tight connections but failed on the inside with similar symptoms as your describing.
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2019, 10:26 AM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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great advice.. I would add...

take out the battery and have it load tested... I had a battery read 14.1v all day but as soon as you turned the key poof no juice... load tested and it showed no good it was all of 10 months old....
take out the starter and have it tested...then you can lube the bendix if nothing else...

if they both test out fine then I would replace the battery cables and go up a size if 2ga go to 1ga... do both the hot and the ground...

I have an 01 and replaced all the cables just because they were 18 years old... and I hate troubleshooting on the lake...
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2019, 11:10 AM
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Put a clamp-on ammeter on the battery cable and turn the key- if the current remains high for more than a few seconds, you may smell hot metal or rubber/plastic.

Bypass the solenoid to see if it's the cause of the problem, but wear eye protection because you will see sparks. If the starter works, connect the crank wire and battery wire with another wire- this isn't a high current connection. If it cranks, it means the voltage/current isn't getting from the ignition switch to the solenoid and you need to find out where the disconnect is located. Could be at the switch, could be at the plug connecting the engine to the boat.

How do you attach the battery cables to the battery- if they're the lead cable clamp type of ends, make sure the battery posts and camps are clean and the bolt has been tightened. If they cables have ring terminals on the ends, look at the color- if they're not shiny and silver-ish, they might be dull but shouldn't have other colors, like blue or tan- these indicate excessive heat.
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