View Single Post
Old 04-12-2013, 10:25 AM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is offline
MC Master Poster
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,353
Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
There is no difference between a marine and auto rngine except brass freeze plugs.

I bought a short block for $1000 cash with brass plugs. Then added gt40p heads.

The long blocks come with heads. Make sure that the heads are not a total pos.

Here is an idea. Buy a short block 351 $1,200 probably, then bada$$ heads for $500 then a cam for $250 and that includes lifters and push rods. Get a marine gasket kit for $100.

$2000-2100 and you have a real nice engine. Top it off with a Edlebrock performer intake $250 and you will have 330hp. I have cam spec card and you can use it to order a cam from comp cams. 2 week turn around.

A member at our club has a jasper long block in his '93 190 1:1 and it is very much lacking power. It has no balls.

You need the good heads.....period drastic difference.

$1500 vs 2000 and kicking yourself forever knowing that this was your opportunity to have lots of power is not worth the savings.

The heads on the long block reman engines suck.

You also mention might be in the market. Take your engine out and have it freshened for $900. If you have gt40 or gt40p heads the valve job and refresh is $200 or so.

$1,500 keeping your existing engine is way better than the jasper setup.

Just ask phntmski about his engine. He loves it. I built it. If you don't build it yourself you are still better off letting the machine shop build it.
You mentioned that the heads suck- wouldn't that be due to them not necessarily being the same as the existing ones and different versions fitting on many blocks? This is a good argument for freshening up an existing engine (as long as the place guarantees the same engine is returned to the customer and the old one wasn't treated like a farm animal), but I don't know if using a Jasper or some other reman is always a bad thing for most people when they won't be doing the swap. It's fast, easy to swap the accessories and comes with a warranty- I don't know of many local shops that will offer the same when they go through an old engine. The cost you show is what you can pay but you have connections that are unavailable to many others. You can't compare the cost for you and what someone will pay to have someone else do this for them- it's like wholesale vs retail. As in any type of work, the ones who can do a lot of the work and make parts choices can save a lot of money. Another problem for someone doing this for the first time is finding a good shop- they all say they're good, but we all know they're not. Finding out the hard way that a shop isn't doing good work is a good way for someone to come to the conclusion that they'll never touch a car or boat again.

After working on boats in this state- seeing what some of the other dealers were doing and hearing what boat owners said about their experiences with some of the other dealers at the time (late-'90s into the early 2000s), I would have a hard time trusting them to work on my boat. I have enough trouble trusting anyone to work on my vehicles as it is.

FWIW, all of the Jasper engines I installed worked very well- I don't know why the one in the club member's boat sucks. Might have something to do with what was spec'd (info given by whoever was doing the work, whoever took the info, who filled the order, what was picked, etc) or it may have to do with what was being done at the time. Could it be a fuel system problem?
Reply With Quote