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mxhideout 10-13-2012 08:24 PM

1991 Resto - I Have A Feeling It's Going To Be A Long Winter...
Some of you have seen that I've been looking for an MC for a while now. I kept finding them in my price range, but every deal would fall through because the boat didn't have what we wanted, it was in too rough of shape for the price, or the seller's communication was terrible. Well I can finally say that I'm an owner of a '91 mastercraft prostar 190. We weren't even going to look at it, but I got a text this morning and we ran right out and looked at it. Luckily it was only an hour and a half drive, as opposed to 10+ hours that we were considering looking at.

Anyway, the boat has seen some hard use over the years, but it seems to runs strong, and a great boat to start out on. It has a lot of nicks and scratches from skis and such, but no structural damage fortunately. I'm not looking to restore this boat, but I do want to touch up whatever I can for as little as possible. And that's why I'll probably be on here asking a lot of questions. I've already found quite a bit of info on other people's threads, and can hardly wait to get out to the lake!

First off, we need to flush the transmission, and I just wanted to clarify what is recommended. I hear a lot of people say Dexron 3. This is a powerslot, if that makes any difference. If we happen to get a warmer, clear weekend day (tomorrow maybe?), we'll bring it to the lake and make sure everything works. After that, it's time to give it some tlc.

There's a lot of nicks in the gel-coat; what do you guys suggest to fill it? We'll also need some touch-up paint that matches as closely as possible. I like pictures, and I'm sure y'all do too, so I'll be posting as many as I can.

Then the windshield frame that's worn out. I saw a guy on here paint his and it looked nice. Is that going to be the easiest/cheapest way to go?

The upholstery is showing its age. I won't replace all of it, but a couple of seat covers were "re-done" and look awful.

The fenders seem to be in great shape. I think we're just going to pull them off and buff 'em out.

Not sure how long it sat outside, but there's quite a bit of oxidation. Nothing bad, will just take some elbow grease...

Looks like a buggered up crack on the teak. My dad still has some teak wood left over, so hopefully it's long enough to replace that board. Then I'll give it some much needed teak oil. Any recommendations?

It's hard to see in the pic, but that middle floor piece is sagging/broken and needs to be replaced. May just use some ply-wood and re-cover it.

I'd like to replace the windshield seal. Where can I find this?

Any place I can get new cup holders that fit?

Steering wheel is beat up. I saw some guy get a replacement at some auto shop. I'm just looking for something cheap that looks similar and won't cover the gauges.

I don't know what it's called, but the rubber bumper guard is all scratched up from running into things about 16 million times... Can I just replace the rubber strip? It looks like it just pops in there.

This will probably be later on down the list, but I'd like to replace the side decals with some factory-looking ones. Anywhere I can get them done for a reasonable price?

The engine is quiet and seems to run strong. We'll find out for sure soon. I'm extremely anxious to test out the highly praised 'powerslot'. My dad owned an '83 MC back in 90s, then bought a Gecko in '98, but sold it after a few years, so I was never really old enough to get into skiing.

We wanted to get an '87-'90, but I think we'll be happy with this.

Spork 10-13-2012 08:57 PM

Skidog can hook you up with a new wood cupholder setup
Jim @ baws can do your decals,
Yes dexron 3 or whatever newer variant is what to use in a powerslot,

Should be a fun project and looks like a good starter, good luck.

Miss Rita 10-13-2012 09:32 PM

You say you don't want to do a restoration, but I bet that may happen. (eventually!)

My $.02 on the windshield: carefully remove it, sand the rough spots on the frame, prime and paint it. It would be nice to powdercoat it, but you would have to complete disassemble it, not sure you're up for that. While the windshield is off, buff the deck with some compound. When you re-install it, get some high density foam weatherstripping at Menard's (I see you're in Minnesota) that will work just fine .

mxhideout 10-13-2012 09:38 PM

Ha, well I'm known to be cheap, but the longer I decide to keep it, the more we'll end up doing to it. That doesn't sound too difficult to do. I wish we had a pole barn already (winters are impossible to work in without heat).

Is it just the cup holders that are wood? Not sure it would match the rest of the boat. How much do you suppose the side decals would be?

ncsone 10-13-2012 09:48 PM

It looks like most of your repairs are just cosmetic, and those should be easy to care for. You have a great boat on your hands - enjoy it. I like the colors a lot.

Lumbergh 10-13-2012 09:57 PM

Bakes for SS cupholders that are affordable and fit.

Redline decals from ebay for all decal on the 91-94.

Rub the gel out, sand and oil the teak.

Go through all the easy stuff on engine (hoses, filters, fluids, cap/rotor, plug wires, plugs, and so on).

Looks like it will clean up well with a winter to work on it!

Congrats on your new boat.

madcityskier 10-13-2012 10:03 PM

Gel repair kits often can be tinted. I have used a product called powerpoxy, it's marine underwater epoxy, which works well on white gel and is very durable. Hard to find an exact match, but this looks better than a chip and has been pretty close the times I've used it. You'll love that flitepipe if you plan to use a boom as well. Just start with one small to project and then do whatever's next. Before you know it she'll be in showroom condition.

mxhideout 10-14-2012 12:19 AM

Thanks for the tips so far guys. We will definitely be using the barefoot boom and the Flitepipe (didn't even know what it was called), which made this buy a little better. We didn't want a tower, so it will be really nice to have when friends go with for wake boarding and even skiing.

If/when I get that far, those decals from Redline should work, thanks. Plastic would be fine, but stainless holders would be nice too. What size will fit? Any tutorials on how to rub the gel coat out? What is recommended tranny fluid? (Never mind, just checked the manual and it said Dexron). I'll check out that powerpoxy. I also forgot to post a picture of a pretty big gouge on the front of the bow where they must've ran into something. I'll take a pic tomorrow.

madcityskier 10-14-2012 12:31 AM

Should be able to get plastic or stainless from west marine or overtons no problem. Just measure the ones you're taking out. First step would likely be a medium cut rubbing compound. Take your time and don't run fast in one spot for a period of time. Keep the buffer moving. If that's not enough you can go to a heavier cut compound, or even wet sand. Follow with muliple coats of high quality wax. Search through the old threads and you'll find lots of info and advice. Check the manual, but should be Dex3 fluid.

bturner2 10-14-2012 08:35 AM

Try Spectrum Color for Gel Coat repair paste. I've used their products with very good success. It'll be hard to get a good match after all the fading but it should still be close. Powder coating is pretty cheap to do around here and will give you a better finish. You should be able to get the windshield off then take it in the house to prep it for the powder coater.

I had a 76 Sea Ray in similar condition and basically refinished all the parts I could get in the house over the winter then finished the rest of the boat as the weather got better in the spring. You'd be amazed what you can take apart and get in your basement when you really want to work on something.

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