View Full Version : My new swim board

05-12-2006, 06:11 PM
As I have noted in earlier threads, I bought this boat from an idiot (hope he doesn't read this) who left the boat outside without cover for probably years. Well, needless to say the swim board was probably never cared for since new in 1998. A couple of the boards were cracked, and instead of fixing them, I figured I would build an entirely new board. Here is my finished product. I am very proud of it. :love:

east tx skier
05-12-2006, 06:16 PM
That's awesome. Looks like a factory platform. Nice work!

05-12-2006, 06:17 PM
Nice work! That's bound to impress even TMCNo1..... :D

05-12-2006, 06:20 PM
Very nice work :)

05-12-2006, 06:25 PM
Job well done. You have every reason to be proud of the work you did

05-12-2006, 08:22 PM
That means a lot coming from you folks.

If anyone wants to tackle it themselves, shoot me an email or PM and I will give you my tips and tricks.

It wasn't terribly difficult, just some careful de-construction of the old one, and measuring twice. I made a couple mistakes, but luckily had some extra teak to fix them.

Man that stuff is expensive. The whole project cost me about $300 just in wood!

05-12-2006, 08:54 PM

05-12-2006, 09:01 PM
Outstanding work! What's the number for on the boat?

05-12-2006, 09:03 PM
WOW!! Super job.

05-12-2006, 09:08 PM
Looks great, nice work.

05-12-2006, 09:41 PM
lookin good. what are those numbers on the back of your boat?

05-12-2006, 09:48 PM
Thanks again, I will take some pics of the boat tomorrow and post them.

The number is for my Marina. I have the boat in dry stack. Its really nice. I call them up, tell them I will be down to the lake at 10am and the boats tied up to the dock ready to go. I just show up with the food, drinks, boards, and people. When I am done they put it back on the rack.

I wish they would put the number under the board, but there isnt much room there for it.

05-12-2006, 10:58 PM
Looks good, that's what I'm talking about. Now I gotta go work on my Formica covered platform.

05-13-2006, 10:01 AM
Wow...beautiful work.....someone above asked as well...what are the numbers 432?

05-13-2006, 10:32 AM
Outstanding work! What's the number for on the boat?

I'm gonna bet rack storage location.

05-13-2006, 10:43 AM
To heck with fancy graphics to try to get attention for my boat - I'm just gonna put some random numbers on the transom :)

05-13-2006, 10:48 AM
Wow...beautiful work.....someone above asked as well...what are the numbers 432?

The number is for my Marina. I have the boat in dry stack. Its really nice. I call them up, tell them I will be down to the lake at 10am and the boats tied up to the dock ready to go. I just show up with the food, drinks, boards, and people. When I am done they put it back on the rack.

05-13-2006, 10:57 AM
Great work!
Glad to see the boat has a good home now.

05-13-2006, 11:08 AM
You built that from scratch? Awesome job! :worthy:

05-13-2006, 01:22 PM
To heck with fancy graphics to try to get attention for my boat - I'm just gonna put some random numbers on the transom :)


If you have a Mastercraft, the entire world is your Marina!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

05-13-2006, 01:32 PM

Those are all great numbers, Harold. Thanks for the suggestions. Now, the hard part of picking just one....

05-13-2006, 02:27 PM
4, 8, 15, 16, 23, 42

05-13-2006, 07:49 PM
Very nice work. Looks very factory. Nice. I wish I had that kind of talent :o

If I would try something like that, y'all wouldn't even let me put that on a ski challenger ;)

Yes - I do realize the challenger has a built in swim platform. ;)

05-13-2006, 07:58 PM
Thanks again everyone, it got a lot of head turns today at the lake.

Yes the numbers are for the storage rack at the marina.

I call em up and the put her in for me. All I do is show up and ski.

Thanks for all the nice comments, I am going to get a big head....ah to late :)

05-16-2006, 01:10 AM
Dude, that looks excellent. Better than new, and that touch of retro/trick.

I would be interested in your basic steps. I have a fiberglas one so I would be starting from scratch.

05-16-2006, 01:36 AM
That looks great, is that varnish or is it just that smooth? Looks slick it looks so nice!

05-16-2006, 11:49 AM
Great piece of work!!!

I too just refinished mine, the previous owner didn't do much to protect it. I made up a cover to keep it out of the sun when not in use.

05-16-2006, 12:30 PM
Those are all great numbers, Harold. Thanks for the suggestions. Now, the hard part of picking just one....

How about the 6 I left out! Nobody caught it! I am amazed!
Details, Details, Details! :eek:
Where would this forum be without us Super Hero's.

05-16-2006, 02:12 PM
I took some time to totally explain the steps I took. Good luck with your project.

1. I took the old board apart carefully and orginized the parts

2. I had 6 different "types" of pieces (end spacers, center spacers, main ribs, front and back caps, a lower front cap, and structual screw "plates")

3. I realized the main ribs could be cut straight on a table saw and "bent" into place on the board and screwed in. So I measured the longest rib from the old board and used that as my length for all the new ribs.

4. I combined the length of the 2 end spacers(add 1" to the end ones) and 2 center spacers and added that to the overall length of the main rib. This gave me an approx dimension of the lumber I would need for the ribs and spacers. Keep in mind the 1/8" kerf of the saw. My ribs were 65" long and the overall spacer dimensions were approx 18". The ribs themselves were 7/8" wide. So there are 7 ribs total so I needed a board at least 8" wide (which is hard to find) and at least 86" long just for the ribs. I couldn't find 8" wide teak so I went with 2 - 6" wide boards which I did have some extra, but was able to cut my lower front cap out of the scrap left over.

5. The lower front cap was just a shorter rib piece, so that one i added too the rib lumber piece.

6. Cut the center spacers off the newly cut rubs with a cross cut saw. They have square ends.

7. Now cut the end spacers with the cross cut saw, but cut one end with a slight angle to match the angle of the outside of the board. You can use the old spacer piece to get the angle. You dont have to cut the outside angle because the pieces will be slightly larger than originals (remember that extra 1") and will be shaped to the right angle with the sander.

8. The remaining pieces must be custom cut out to match the originals. I brought them with to the lumber yard to lay them out on the potential lumber I needed, until I found the pieces that would fit all of them, with minimizing waste (at $15 a board foot waste is expensive). A couple important notes: Add a few inches to the structural screw plates. You will trim these to size later on and the new board will not be excatally the same depth as the old. I didn't do this and had to add a "scab" peice on the back outside (see side pictures and you will notice it).

9. Trace out the originals on the new lumber and cut out the pieces with a jig saw or band saw. Try to stay just outside your original line as you will not cut a perfect curve and it will need to be shaped with a belt sander. DO NOT cut out the back cap (the one closest to the transom), that comes on a later step.

10. Shape the front plate with a belt sander. Get it down to the lines.

11. Assembly: Now every piece is cut out with the exception of the back cap. Start by placing the screw plates in position and set the front plate on them. This is the most critical assembly step. You must have the allignment perfect because an error here will follow all the way through the board. Once your comfortable screw the outside plates (outside ones only) to the front cap. Always pre drill with a counter sink drill bit before you screw.

12. With the outside plates in place, now you need to add the lower front cap. This one spans between the outside plates below the front cap. It is screwed to the front cap and provides most of the rigidity across the span. This piece is straight and the front of the board has a major curve in it so you need help with this step. Start in the center, with two screws (use the old piece to place screws evenly), then have your helper bend the piece to get it in the right position for the next screw. There are 6 screws on this piece so repeat this step until it has been completely secured to the front cap.

13. With the lower front cap in place, you can now screw the center screw plates into the front cap. Now you are ready to start assembling the ribs and spacers.

14. The first layer is spacers. Center the center spacers on the center screw plate and secure. For the first outside spacer placement you will need a straight edge. Place the old back cap on the crewplates and line up the mark where the final outside spacer was and run the straight edge to the front cap where you think the front outside spacer should start. When you place your outside spacer in that place, there should be a signifigant amount of extra hanging out. That is fine, it will be trimmed later. Screw down the outside spacers. I used a spring clamp to hold them down.

15. First rib. Center the first rib on the board (should be extra hanging out on both sides), use a clamp to compress the rib up to the first set of spacers. Screw down the rib to all the screw plates.

16. Repeat spacer install

17. Repeat Rib install

18. After the last spacer has been installed, now you need to mark the back cap. Take your teak stock and lay it on top of the spacers. Trace the angle of the spacers onto the stock. Use a straight edge to connect the spacer marks to create the front edge of the back cap. Now take the old back cap and place it on the newly marked stock. Now take the old back cap and transfer the rear angle (the transom angle) to the stock. This is now your new back cap. cut it out and soft fit it to make sure it fits. Take it out to the boat too make sure the transom curve matchs the boat.

19. If it all matches up, give it a quick shaping with the belt sander and screw it down, you are 95% there.

20. Sanding and shaping: Start by using a band saw too trim the excess peices CLOSE to the outside dimensions of the board. You will be trimming the rear of the screw plates, and the outside spacers.

21. With a 60 grit hand belt sander, sand the outside of the board and shape it to where it needs to be. I found that using a sharpie to mark area's that need a lot of material removed worked well. I would mark it with the sharpie and sand until I couldnt see the mark, check and repeat is necessary. Use caution when using a belt sander. It can remove a massive amount of material in no time.

22. I sanded the top with the belt sander too, to level the ribs and spacers. Remeber to sand WITH the grain.

23. Once its been sanded and shaped to look like the original, it is time to move to final sanding and shaping. Using a small round over bit in a router, round over the leading edge of the board.

24. Switch to a palm sander with 100 grit sand paper and remove all the belt sander marks. Sand the entire board. Sand a 45 degree angle ono all the other corners other than the leading edge

25. Take a peice of 100 grit with a small block and hand sand a 45 degree angle inbetween the spacers and the ribs.

26. Swithch too 220 grit sand papaer and repeat on all surfaces including inbetween the spacers and all corners

27. Final set up. Take the board to the boat (blow off the board with an air compressor to remove all the dust). Put the brakets onto the boat. Set the board on the brakets and center and align the board to the boat. Mark the holes on the braket to the swim board and mount the brakets to the board. Once its mounted, make sure you can install the and remove the brackets easily.

28. The board is complete all that is left is liberally applying a good teak oil and letting it dry in the sun. I recommend two coat over 48 hours to get it to look like my pictures.

I know that is a lot of steps, but I didnt want to forget anything. Good luck

05-16-2006, 02:56 PM
And I thought I had alot of work just refinishing my "82" deck! Kooks great! :headbang: