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Roman
06-02-2014, 01:01 PM
Hey Guys.

So I finally pulled the trigger and bought a boat. I will get more pictures and details later, but Im so excited and nervous here it is. The good and the bad.

-1991 Mari star 240 Open bow
- 454 BB with 721 hours. 130-145psi on all cylinders. No leak down test as I don't have have the tester.
- All electrical works (but I forgot to check nav lights.)
- Bottom painted with anti-foul due to living in marina in Toronto by previous owner. Also has gel work on the drivers side rear corner. Apparently during a storm it had hit the dock. I was told this was a professional repair. In hindsight, a professional repair should not be noticeable. This one is due to color
- Stainless Steel 4 blade prop. Need to change this out for a brass unit.
- Interior is in great shape as far as im concerned. 2 pieces need to get seam fixed, and the rear sunpad the blue vinyl is flaking. Like I said the rest is pretty awesome for 21 years old.
- Steering was fine. one finger
- Could rotate prop easily by hand
- There is a 1 foot section of gelcoat missing from the keel. This was from hitting the trailer. Need to get that fixed asap.
- The rudder does has a fair amount of pitting. Doing some reading this is slightly concerning to me now. I didn't think it was a big deal for some reason.

Bad news I didn't test drive it. Water levels are very high, and the closest boat launch is very steep and the lady (main driver) did not feel comfortable using it. Plus it was late int he day and we still had a long drive ahead of us. Im hoping this doesn't come back to bite me in the ***. Honestly though, I doubt I would have noticed anything since this is my first boat, other than a really bad vibration.

My plans are as follows.
- New trailer tires. I drove 50-55mph because of how severly ****ty these tires were. I was an idiot...no spare either. Set the tire pressures to 37 cold, hit the bearing buddies with fresh grease, stayed below 55mph, rolled the dice and said a hail marry.
- Replace all fluids and filters
- Replace engine hoses
- JB weld all the pitting in the rudder. Don't want to get more damage until I sort out the issue properly so hopefully the jb will act as like a shield. Going to also clean out and grease the whole steering system to keep her smooth.
- Fix the teak platform. I think when it hit the dock during the storm, it suffered some damage. Im definitely missing screws in the bottom. If anyone can take me pictures of there of how this thing mounts properly that would be great. I'll show how this one it.
- Install brass prop (looking for a used one).

One that's all done, I then am going to remove the driveshaft and check it for alignment, and then install new packing and doing a whole alignment on the engine/trans and driveshaft. Also replace the cutlass bearing.

Once that's done, Im going to then start cutting and polishing the gelcoat, doing repairs along the way. Eventually going to remove the antifoul paint aswell.

So actually sounds not that good. But I only paid 5500USD or 6000CND for it. I knew there was lots of damage, but me and my gf both agreed a mint boat is not for us just incase we ever hit something ourselves....which I know will happen.

Roman
06-02-2014, 01:02 PM
few more pictures

homer12
06-02-2014, 03:32 PM
Congrats on the new purchase and welcome! Lots of good info here for DIY'ing

Roman
06-02-2014, 08:07 PM
What! only one reply!
Is this a bad deal??

gsxrjtt
06-02-2014, 08:10 PM
for the price for a work in progress your def on the right path ... cant wait to see the restore thread

Jerseydave
06-02-2014, 08:26 PM
What! only one reply!
Is this a bad deal??

Congrats and welcome to the Mastercraft family!
While I've never driven a 240 I'm sure it's fine for it's intended purpose.

With that said, what do you plan to do with it? Wakeboard? Surf? Cruise? Ski?
Just curious, ever driven a large inboard? What have you driven?
Only saying this because bigger single engine inboards are a challenge around docks and tight spots, strong winds and currents.

MI_Corey
06-02-2014, 08:30 PM
Congrats on the boat!

Lumbergh
06-02-2014, 08:33 PM
First boat. Always a good thing.

Drive it like you stole it!

Roman
06-02-2014, 09:01 PM
We plan to Wakeboard, tube and cruise mostly. I would like to surf as well, and it should be possible with this boat but we don't have money for fat sacks at the moment.

I have only driven a 17.5' I/O. Well see how the learning curve goes. Exactly why I wasn't keen on getting a mint boat. I did want something 19-21, but when this popped up I managed to justify it in my head. The 454 had a lot to do with it since I'm a gear head.


This antifoul that's on the bottom. Is this stuff really that bad? The guy I bought it from got it like this and hasn't done anything. HE also only towed or left it in his cottage just for a weekend. From my understanding its great for preventing blistering, but I sort of want it gone since I trailer only and it looks like ****. Is it hard to remove you think?

Is my prop worth much you think since its stainless? I need to get a brass one incase I hit something, so I wouldn't mind unloading this one.

f925
06-02-2014, 09:47 PM
Welcome to the 240 family!
That bottom paint may contain lead. Do NOT just go sanding or grinding at that stuff.
Have fun learning to back the beast. All my previous boats had been outboard or I/O. You basically cannot steer in reverse. It will walk in one direction on you while in gear in reverse. So far. As operation this has been my big learning curve.
I am jealous of your 454. I think I have the only 240 open or SC in existence with the 351w.
You interior looks great for being original. I like the canopy option cover. That would be incredibly useful for me, I mag have to consider getting one made at some point.
It sounds like you have a solid plan otherwise. Run it for a minute on the trailer and check for milky oil and trans fluid. Sounds like you got a solid deal! I paid a little under $1k less, but the upholstery was shot bow to stern and I have/am rebuilding entire drive line. You have done well! I cant wait to see your restoration thread!

Edit: i will snap a few pictures of my platform tomorrow in the daylight for you. Mine is on the list to be replaced.


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Spork
06-02-2014, 10:19 PM
Awesome buy, that's alot of boat for 5500.

Pickwick
06-02-2014, 11:46 PM
Very interesting boat. Congrats! Enjoy the DIY.

Am I the only one who's never seen one of these? Rare?

Who has some background info on their production stats and purpose?

wake up
06-03-2014, 12:53 AM
Thats a great boat at a good price! Ive spent a lot of time in a '91 240 sc, similar to yours. Plenty of power and the 454 sounds awesome! Very roomy for a dd. We did not have ballast and it put out enough wake for us amatures to surf and board. Also took big waves real well. I read somewhere mc made only 550 of the 240 sc and even fewer open bows. A great bang for the buck for a rare gem. Congrats!

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f925
06-03-2014, 08:53 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/03/6ysajequ.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/03/umuqama9.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/03/ana7ypy7.jpg

It looks like 3/8" al angle brackets into the hull, plus the 4 anchors from the hand rail. I hope this helps.

So far as the purpose of the 240 series i think at the time they were meant to be cruisers built the only way MC knew how. In retrospect they were wake sports boats that were the better part of a decade ahead of their time.


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aquaman
06-03-2014, 09:13 AM
should be a good wakeboard boat for the money.

I would like to see the natural wake of that boat.

bet it's pretty strong ?


anyone have experience w/the 24' MC ?

Theomedic
06-03-2014, 09:43 AM
Congrats on your boat, I know you were looking at a few for a while. It looks nice and that's an awesome price especially since it has a big block! We sold our 78 and bought a 209, I'll post some pics this weekend.

etduc
06-03-2014, 09:57 AM
Roman, congrats on the boat. Actually, not to bad.

If tires are, actually trailer tires, tire pressure should be 40-50psi. If the tires are old, dry rotted, don't go this high.

You do want a CNC prop. You do want to watch Youtube videos, on driving a DD boat, your girl friend too. Makes life much easier.

Roman
06-03-2014, 02:54 PM
Ill be taking this out to my buddies on Zukhey Lake in Pinckney Mi on July 4th, and definitely in two weeks with the lady to learn how to unload/drive/load it. We will be doing lots of YouTube training first.

Well I just got my Girlfriends dad to measure, the shaft is 1". I would love to get a CNC prop, but right now I just want a basic brass prop incase/when I hit something. I would like something cheap while I learn the ropes. If anyone has a cheap prop for this thing that is 1" that would be great, pm me!

Thanks for all the positive feedback aswell. I will defiantly be starting a Restore thread once the boat is at my house and posting many more detailed photos. I am about to order tires tonight from tire rack (GY Marathon. 84.99 a piece plus shipping), unless anyone has any other suggestions. No new rims since this is a budget boat, so the stock 205/75/14's are staying.

I think the wake should be great for us. I can do wake to wake and 180. My GF would be happy learning Wake to Wake this year, but she can board just fine. I would like to learn a few tricks this year, but well see.

Does anyone have brochures for this thing? I wonder how it was marketed

f925
06-03-2014, 03:23 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/7yge4eny.jpg
This is currently on ebay. No open bow brochures up at the moment. They call it "luxury ski boat" ha ha ha.


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cbryan70
06-03-2014, 04:43 PM
Ill be taking this out to my buddies on Zukhey Lake in Pinckney Mi on July 4th, and definitely in two weeks with the lady to learn how to unload/drive/load it. We will be doing lots of YouTube training first.

Well I just got my Girlfriends dad to measure, the shaft is 1". I would love to get a CNC prop, but right now I just want a basic brass prop incase/when I hit something. I would like something cheap while I learn the ropes. If anyone has a cheap prop for this thing that is 1" that would be great, pm me!

Thanks for all the positive feedback aswell. I will defiantly be starting a Restore thread once the boat is at my house and posting many more detailed photos. I am about to order tires tonight from tire rack (GY Marathon. 84.99 a piece plus shipping), unless anyone has any other suggestions. No new rims since this is a budget boat, so the stock 205/75/14's are staying.

I think the wake should be great for us. I can do wake to wake and 180. My GF would be happy learning Wake to Wake this year, but she can board just fine. I would like to learn a few tricks this year, but well see.

Does anyone have brochures for this thing? I wonder how it was marketed

Pete sells tires. I would avoid marathons.

pmkkdx
06-03-2014, 06:08 PM
yep, you can find a lot of distaste/dislike on the MC TT forum relating to the GY Marathon tires ...

welcome aboard and good buy on the boat ... it will be interesting and entertaining to watch your restore process ... and also your wailing and knashing of teeth while learning how to back and dock that thing!

MC240
06-03-2014, 07:00 PM
Great boat. I have the same boat in a different color scheme (black and light gray). I restored mine a few years back. Let me know if you have any questions on this boat. I have had mine since 1998 and it is still running like a charm. My restoration thread is on this website.

drschemel
06-04-2014, 10:15 AM
look for towmaster radials on www .tires-easy.com they have pretty good prices.

Roman
06-04-2014, 12:01 PM
That post was a few minutes too late. Otherwise I would have bought from there and saved a bunch of money!!!!

Already pulled the gun on 4 goodyears from tirerack at 96 a tire shipped. Im hoping GY has the best QC of the china tires. Need the tires by this weekend.

The spare is coming from walmart. Some china tire on a china rim that hopefully ill never use

bsloop
06-04-2014, 04:19 PM
The prop pictured appears to be a 4 blade brass/bronze already.
Take the nut off and read what is stamped around the hub.

Given the gel coat and hull issues, I would put a prop further down your want list.
That bottom paint looks ROUGH. It will need to be sanded and new applied. Unfortunately it is really not cost effective to try and go back to gel - just deal with it. Also given the bottom condition and your lack of knowledge, I would pay to have someone remove the old and inspect for blisters this initial time for sure.

Make sure your trailer brake system from actuator, lines and brakes are properly working. This is a big, heavy boat to trailer and you need good brakes. Bleed lines for sure.

240 is a big boat in the water too. It will drive and maneuver very different than your little 17' I/O.
Take extra time to learn how to handle it. Specifically how it likes to swing and carry momentum while docking. Learn to control this or you will bash other boats/docks. Do it well and you will look like a Rockstar!
Ask someone who owns an Inboard to give you some "seat time" pointers. Becareful of those Nautique guys though, they do it backwards ;)

Roman
06-04-2014, 05:01 PM
That bottom paint looks ROUGH. It will need to be sanded and new applied. Unfortunately it is really not cost effective to try and go back to gel - just deal with it. Also given the bottom condition and your lack of knowledge, I would pay to have someone remove the old and inspect for blisters this initial time for sure.


Why do I need to remove it? I figured I would just leave it be for now and let it wear off on its own so when I get around to removing it, it wont be as hard.

Ya I know, don't buy a boat that has this crap on it but its done now. I read somewhere you can have it blasted off with baking soda? Either way, Im going to leave it alone for the season. I would have to disagree with you regarding my order of operations. True driveline is #1. Brass prop to protect driveline is also #1. However I am a newb so please tell me wiser if it needs to be told.

Trailer maintenance is also pretty high. New tires are ordered, but I agree I do need to get the brakes checked out. Ill be bleeding them for sure and making sure they work properly.

MC25
06-04-2014, 05:15 PM
Whats wrong with the current prop?

Roman
06-04-2014, 05:16 PM
Current prop is stainless steel, which from my understanding can cause lots of damage if I hit something. So I would like to switch it out for a more forgiving material.

bsloop
06-05-2014, 02:40 PM
Current prop is stainless steel, which from my understanding can cause lots of damage if I hit something. So I would like to switch it out for a more forgiving material.

IF the prop you are referring to is the prop pictured in your initial post?
99% sure that is a BRONZE prop. Unless "Swamp gas from a weather balloon was trapped in a thermal pocket and reflected the light from Venus." (MIB) which causes the prop to appear yellow in the pic..... its bronze. Even if it was SS, bronze is not going to save you nearly as much from damage as you think. Hit something hard, the shaft and/or strut better be checked as well. Nibral bronze is closer to SS than AL in hardness.

Back to the original post and and errant thinking on bottom paint in the response. Gel coat IS a very thick form of paint. Raw fiberglass will absorb moisture. Bottom paint in as poor condition as is on your boat will hide blisters which can occur when a boat sits in the water (and sometimes not in the water) These must be removed and repaired or just like a skin infection they will manifest into something much worse. "One foot of exposed fiberglass on the keel" should also be repaired ASAP. Even if the boat does not sit in the water.

IF the boat is going to be regularly trailer loaded, make sure the paint is spec'ed to be trailered or remain effective after haul out and expect to paint every year or two tops. This will not mean you have to always remove the old but is more work and $$ than normal gel for a trailer boat. Floating onto the trailer instead of power loading up the bunks (bad anyway) will also reduce abrasion and possibly buy an extra year. Given the low value, I would not judge it efficient to try and strip to re-gel. The lifetime penalty was built into your low purchase cost.

Since you are new to boat ownership and did not do a lake test or inspection before purchase; I would HIGHLY suggest you have a marine mechanic familiar with inboards check it over and accompany on a short water test. Pay for an hour at the marina if you have to or make friends with one of the mechanics and have them meet you right after work with $50, favorite bottle etc. Best money you will have spent. ;)
Just trying to help with your understanding and priorities to give maximum enjoyment.

Roman
06-05-2014, 03:26 PM
IF the prop you are referring to is the prop pictured in your initial post?
99% sure that is a BRONZE prop. Unless "Swamp gas from a weather balloon was trapped in a thermal pocket and reflected the light from Venus." (MIB) which causes the prop to appear yellow in the pic..... its bronze. Even if it was SS, bronze is not going to save you nearly as much from damage as you think. Hit something hard, the shaft and/or strut better be checked as well. Nibral bronze is closer to SS than AL in hardness.

Back to the original post and and errant thinking on bottom paint in the response. Gel coat IS a very thick form of paint. Raw fiberglass will absorb moisture. Bottom paint in as poor condition as is on your boat will hide blisters which can occur when a boat sits in the water (and sometimes not in the water) These must be removed and repaired or just like a skin infection they will manifest into something much worse. "One foot of exposed fiberglass on the keel" should also be repaired ASAP. Even if the boat does not sit in the water.

IF the boat is going to be regularly trailer loaded, make sure the paint is spec'ed to be trailered or remain effective after haul out and expect to paint every year or two tops. This will not mean you have to always remove the old but is more work and $$ than normal gel for a trailer boat. Floating onto the trailer instead of power loading up the bunks (bad anyway) will also reduce abrasion and possibly buy an extra year. Given the low value, I would not judge it efficient to try and strip to re-gel. The lifetime penalty was built into your low purchase cost.

Since you are new to boat ownership and did not do a lake test or inspection before purchase; I would HIGHLY suggest you have a marine mechanic familiar with inboards check it over and accompany on a short water test. Pay for an hour at the marina if you have to or make friends with one of the mechanics and have them meet you right after work with $50, favorite bottle etc. Best money you will have spent.
Just trying to help with your understanding and priorities to give maximum enjoyment.


Thanks for the advice.

I do have a few follow up questions since you seem very knowledgeable. This boat will only be trailered for as long as I own it. There is one week a year that the boat will stay in the water for 5 days straight on our camping trip.

So Is the option of soda blasting the bottom then re-polishing the gel coat back to factory not an option? Your making it seem like I no longer have gel coat on the bottom. That being said, can I still repair the damage by putting fiberglass resin on the exposed glass, letting it cure, then applying a few coats of gelcoat overtop to seal it in. I was going to feather the gel coat an inch past the damaged areas as well.

Im not really understanding this anti-foul/bottom paint. My understanding is its mean to stop growth and help seal the hull to prevent blistering from prolonged water exposure. Is this true? If so why is re-application necessary if im trailering? Algea growth is not a concern to me (pressure washer), and the boat wil be stored dry. Ive tried doing research online but I seem to be reading everything so im not 100% sure what I need.

Are you also implying that the condition of my bottom paint might actually be increasing the odds of blistering?

Is there an option to actually bottom paint with some hard epoxy type paint so I don't need to mess with this again, and my gel coat will be sealed? Ill be keeping this boat for 10+ years. I don't normally get rid of my toys, just do my best to keep them running well. I don't see how I can upgrade from this anyways...its huge and has a huge engine.

f925
06-05-2014, 05:48 PM
I grew up with sail boats on a freshwater lake. Under those conditions the boat had to be pulled every 6 years for new anti fouling paint. I'm not sure what the newer stuff has in it but the anti fouling paint of 15 years ago had lead in it. My dad always paid a professional to handle this task. I cannot imagine that it would need to be painted every year, but once again it was not a power boat. In your situation I would contact several different people that specialize in antifouling paint and ask them what needs to be done. Unless you can establish that is a lead free paint I would not take a sander to any part of it. This is one of those things where if you ask 10 people on the internet for the best coarse of action you will get 11 responses all differing. Anti fouling paint helps prevent blisters, however a pinhole will produce blisters UNDER the paint making for soft spots and potential holes through the hull. Calls are effectively free to pros. They could also quote you rough prices for options.

Edit: you should not need to pressure wash algae off a power boat. I used to snorkel and brush the bottom, but max speed was 7 knots. 35 mph will be plenty of pressure washing.
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f925
06-05-2014, 06:02 PM
I wouldn't worry about the prop either. You cannot plan for how you might strike the prop. Make sure your depth finder works and stay in known deep water. Navionics has a phone app for $10 that turns your phone into a chart plotter. Get it on the water, your priorities might change drastically. That bottom paint issues will be a problem moving from 25 to 35 years of age as your toy.


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