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View Full Version : First MasterCraft (Impressions, Pics, Noob ?s)


rek
04-14-2014, 11:07 AM
New member long time lurker. Previous boat was a 2006 four winns H180 which we sold and bought this 2003 X9 with 70 hours. The guy rarely used it but rarely cleaned it or did anything else to it so I've been working hard the last couple of months to get it ready for summer.

Here's what I did....

Cleaned and new teak oil (before/after)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqeHE1T1h3b1RNYkk/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqTGxscTNrb0RuRlE/edit?usp=sharing

Getting 2 drops per second with/without the shaft spinning so did the drive shaft repack with the GFO gortex packing. Bought the 1/4" but it was too big. The 3/16" fit fine. I may need to loosen the packing nut as I saw no drips on the water yesterday after about 2 hours of use.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqLUhiQ0YtdDI5UDA/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqdThRVm4wSHJhUWc/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqejhQdDc0VFVSTkk/edit?usp=sharing

Dog house had no insulation. So took the glue off (4 hours of hard work) and put 1" thick insulation on foil backing.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqTkdrYmc3QWhvaVE/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqMmV5YnVPWkVnM2s/edit?usp=sharing

New Odyssey battery and replaced terminals, Upgraded 1 of the 2 amps, added 2 cans and replaced with Rockford M262s + LEDs in factory tweeter holes, swapped out the factory 10" clarion sub with an elemental designs 11kv.2 and added bluetooth via hack into the cd change port of the clarion factory radio

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqZWdmODFWdVlIXzg/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqREtIZWwxNGtIM1U/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqTW5mcV9GaVJSWlU/edit?usp=sharing

LED trailer lights. Rewired the reverse light to be brake lights so now I have 4 bright brake lights

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqNEk0V0RxMHpweTQ/edit?usp=sharing


Ballast wasn't working. New green impellers. Now the center locker ballast works but the rear under stern seat does not. I think the pump is bad as it grinds and suddenly stops spinning.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqTzdTYkRIai1JelE/edit?usp=sharing

Debadged the X9 stickers which were scratched up from docking and I'm not real crazy about the look of these graphics. So, they came off with acetone and a heat gun. 2 coats of 3m polish with my 6" polisher and you can barely tell they were there. (before/after)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqX0luRGthbEVoOGc/edit?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqNXBmRW9mNnhJbVU/edit?usp=sharing

Not pictured but replaced the glove box struts and passenger storage struts too.

I like the clean look with the classy mastercraft sticker in the rear. Here's a pic of the family before we headed out for our first time out together.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0xGLD864qKqWDdzcmZacWk1eUU/edit?usp=sharing

Despite a windy day, cold water, and a dinged prop on the muddy river bottom we had a blast.

Impressions:

* Going from a carb 4cyl with 135hp to a fuel injected 8cyl with 350hp is HUGE.
* The motor is so quiet the wife loved it. I estimate 20db or so less than my four winns. We can carry on a conversation in the boat and can barely hear a rumble out of the exhaust. The 1" carr insulation is great.
* The ride is very different. It feels like we're just above the water line with great vantage all the way around the boat. Very little bow rise which is awesome. We feel like we're on the water more than "in the boat" if that makes sense
* Trailer is a big step up too. The surge brakes work more often than the old trailer helping my tow vehicle stop the load. It feels more stable and secure on the road despite being 600lbs heavier than the old boat/trailer
* The built in cooler is my favorite feature of the boat lol! It fits 20 beers and 4 waters perfectly :)
* Fuel injected starts right up vs priming the carb and 10-20 seconds of starting and another couple of minutes of warm up before attempting to get it off the trailer.
* The quality difference. Everywhere there was a screw on the old boat there's a nut and bolt on the MC. The wiring inside is ran through conduit instead of zip tied up to something else. The vinyl, carpet, electronics, motor, etc are all greatly improved going from a retail $20k boat to a $50k boat. I feel like with the right care, it'll be our boat into our 40s, 50s, maybe even longer.

So, I hope the above is a contribution to this great TT forum. Perhaps more so to a new or prospective new MC owner. I have had lots of questions most of which the FAQ and reading other posts have answered. But a few of my noob questions where i could use some help:

1. Drain plug. Which way am i supposed to screw it in? lol From the inside or under the boat from the outside? I've been doing inside.

2. Reverse. I hear, for a lack of a better term, "squalling" sound when i engage the transmission into reverse. No noise in forward. Is this normal?

3. My prop is dinged up. Recommendations on who i should send it into for repair? Seems like there's a forum member that does this work?

4. Tower. The rubber feet between the tower and the boat are actually in pretty good shape for a 11 year old boat. But noticed on the chop that the tower sways a good half inch back and forth on the water and on the trailer. Should I or can I tighten things up?

5. Ballast motor. Upon inspection and replacement of the impeller i did see some rust in the housing so I suspect water intrusion has killed it. Can i repair the motor myself or should i just buy a new motor?

6. Boat buddy pin is slightly bent so that it does not engage into the lock. Can this be repaired or easily replaced?

7. The bow strap tore on the ramp yesterday and ripped off by the time I got the boat home. Glad I had a spare ratchet in the truck. I assume the strap can be replaced easily? Looks like there's a pen that slides out for the new strap to be put on.

8. Any other suggestions on maintenance or upgrades i need to do to this boat? I've drained the wallet in the past few months but want this boat tip top!

Thanks in advance for any help with the answers here. I look forward to following this forum and helping where i can. Thx!

curver900
04-14-2014, 11:41 AM
Very nice!!!!!

TxsRiverRat
04-14-2014, 11:43 AM
Welcome and great work!

You're going to find a home in the MCOCD thread quickly! :D

rek
04-14-2014, 11:48 AM
More pics now that i've figured out how to insert them:

mzimme
04-14-2014, 11:52 AM
Nice work! Sounds like you've already put quite a bit of time into it.

For the bent pin, look into replacing your boat buddy with a Ramp-N-Clamp. There's a thread on here somewhere about it.

How'd you tear your strap on the winch? Were you trying to winch the boat on to the trailer? These trailers are drive on style trailers. Winching your boat will be VERY difficult.

Also, fix that prop before you use it anymore. Did you notice vibration when you were under way? That's a pretty good hit to the prop. That should be causing some serious vibration which can damage other parts in the driveline if not given attention. Send it to OJ, they refurb props very reasonable prices.

02ProstarSammyD
04-14-2014, 11:52 AM
that prop needs some love!

CantRepeat
04-14-2014, 11:53 AM
Boat looks great!

Yeah, as stated, that prop needs some real love!! I wouldn't even boat with it in that condition.

lentiman
04-14-2014, 11:56 AM
1. Drain plug.
Screw in from the inside. You're doing it right.

2. Reverse. I hear, for a lack of a better term, "squalling" sound when i engage the transmission into reverse. No noise in forward. Is this normal?
Yup, that sound is normal.

3. My prop is dinged up. Recommendations on who i should send it into for repair? Seems like there's a forum member that does this work?
You might check locally. That's quite a ding. What did you hit? Might consider getting a spare prop also.

5. Ballast motor.
You can repair the damage depending on the severity of the issues. There's a couple forum members here that stock parts and you could order from them.

6. Boat buddy pin is slightly bent so that it does not engage into the lock. Can this be repaired or easily replaced?
Go buy a Ramp-and-Clamp. You've got a great excuse.

tcmercil
04-14-2014, 11:56 AM
1st welcome - -

so many things to say, and I'm sure you'll get plenty of answers to all your questions above.....

- Decal removal - made the boat look 10 years newer.... I don't understand people that still have the tribal decals, I'm guessing maybe the guys that have that Tribal Tattoo that is a bit more difficult to remove.

- Ramp n Clamp - a whole thread on it / toss the boat buddy... honestly they're not worth replacing parts.

- props - look locally, we all have our own thoughts on that.
- Fulton Winch/Jack - both worth the upgrade
- ballast motors - guy on here sells them and will chime in I'm sure.
- vinyl cleaner only for the interior - anything stronger will loosen the threads and you'll start to see your stiches come apart


- thing about this forum, everyone has an opinion, even if you don't want it. Tons of information here and well people willing to really help you out.

oh - and you think it's your last boat.....

CantRepeat
04-14-2014, 12:05 PM
1. Drain plug. Which way am i supposed to screw it in? lol From the inside or under the boat from the outside? I've been doing inside.

It gets screwed in from the inside. You wouldn't want anything hanging below the hull

2. Reverse. I hear, for a lack of a better term, "squalling" sound when i engage the transmission into reverse. No noise in forward. Is this normal?

Might be cavitation happening from the bent prop.

3. My prop is dinged up. Recommendations on who i should send it into for repair? Seems like there's a forum member that does this work?

OJ Props, google them. Great people.

4. Tower. The rubber feet between the tower and the boat are actually in pretty good shape for a 11 year old boat. But noticed on the chop that the tower sways a good half inch back and forth on the water and on the trailer. Should I or can I tighten things up?

Check to make sure the bolts are tight. All of the towers sway from rollers.

5. Ballast motor. Upon inspection and replacement of the impeller i did see some rust in the housing so I suspect water intrusion has killed it. Can i repair the motor myself or should i just buy a new motor?

wakemakers.com for all your ballast parts. If you call them they will give you a discount code for purchases over $50.

6. Boat buddy pin is slightly bent so that it does not engage into the lock. Can this be repaired or easily replaced?

Ramp N clamp is all the rage.

7. The bow strap tore on the ramp yesterday and ripped off by the time I got the boat home. Glad I had a spare ratchet in the truck. I assume the strap can be replaced easily? Looks like there's a pen that slides out for the new strap to be put on.

etrailer.com will have the fulton stuff.

MC25
04-14-2014, 12:14 PM
The lights in the tweeters is so sweet!!!

JMLVMI
04-14-2014, 12:20 PM
Replace that prop with a CNC'ed OJ XMP prop. You'll really like it. That sound in reverse is normal. Get a Ramp-n-Clamp; although I've kicked my Boat Buddy to bend the pin back in and it worked.

Great looking boat!

CottagerGreg
04-14-2014, 12:27 PM
Welcome to the forum officially! Great job on your boat!

I think you have all the answers you need... now get out there and enjoy it! (as the last owner did not(

EricB
04-14-2014, 12:29 PM
Noise in reverse is normal (kind of a high-pitch whine). Has to do with power transmission through the change of gears to get reverse motion. Besides, you will always know when it is in reverese from the noise.

Nothing wrong and normal. Sure beats the sounds of outdrive gears grinding, doesn't it?

thatsmrmastercraft
04-14-2014, 12:30 PM
Welcome to Team Talk. You sure jumped in with both feet. Great looking boat and family.

Thrall
04-14-2014, 12:38 PM
Awesome boat! The 209 is one of my favorite MC lines from a classic low slung appearance standpoint.
Looks like most of your questions have been answered already. But for props if you want night and day difference assuming yours is stock, get a new prop from OJ or Acme.
Both are top quality and if you prop it doe a little form the stock low altitude pitch it will come out of the hole like a dragster with very little top end speed loss. Face it. The boats aren't fast any way so who cares if you top out at 44 or 42 mph.
OJ vs Acme is like Ford vs Chevy. I prefer Acme but both are great and good service.

scott023
04-14-2014, 01:41 PM
That looks awesome. Welcome to the MC family.

Pickwick
04-14-2014, 02:00 PM
Nothing lost on the decals. Is hate too strong a word? I'll just say I can't believe how "Edgy" MC got for several years (Lotsa sales out on the west coast I'm sure :D8p).

Beautiful blue!

rek
04-14-2014, 02:14 PM
You guys rock thanks for all the responses and thumbs up.

TxsRiverRat, i'm reading the MCOCD thread now. Can't believe i didn't stumble upon it by now so thx!

Several suggestions to get the ramp-n-clamp... will certainly look into that!

mzimme, the winch strap was pretty worn looking to begin with and aren't familiar with the local ramps and this trailer yet so I had to winch it up about a foot yesterday and i did the "strap in" by doing this. Apparently the water needs to be a good 6 inches below the fenders to get the boat up without the winch. At least at my ramp. I was just below the waterline like my old boat but wasn't far down the ramp enough.

Several comments on the prop. It had a small ding in 2 of the 4 blades when i bought it. But yesterday i hit a shallow area and hit what felt like mud. The same 2 blades that were dinged fully bent as you can see in the pic. After that, we went straight back (3 miles) to the ramp cussing and having a few cold ones to calm me down :) yea, i'm not going out again until i get it fixed.

I'll either get it repaired or replaced. I've dinged a couple of aluminum props on my old boat and they were never quite the same after the repair in terms of performance.

Several comments on the noise in reverse. Thanks for easing my mind guys! I'm pretty sure its not cavitation as it did the same when the prop wasn't severely damaged. I may be wrong though will see when i get the prop repaired/replaced.

lentiman, i'll look into getting the parts for the ballast motor fixed if possible. Will get it on the work bench and see if it's repairable. thx!

tcmercil, "made the boat look 10 years newer" that is EXACTLY what my Dad said! Thank you. I was real nervous about that decal coming off. There was certainly some oxidation on the boat and was very worried about having the 'tribal' shadow for life and don't want to wet sand unless i must. I think a couple more runs with the polisher (3m oxidation polish) and then the 3m wax with a soft pad should satisfy my OCD. Regarding vinyl cleaner I use the 3m stuff and aerospace 303 regularly. I do have some nicks in the vinyl that need fixing though. I read something about this stuff on another thread for small tears.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001949Z4I/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CantRepeat, looking into OJ props and think that's the guy i keep seeing in random posts on this forum as being the guy to talk to thx. yea, i bought the green impellers already from wakemakers and will do the same with pump parts too thx. etrailer for trailer parts will do. thx.

Aric'sX15, thx i love the lights too. Only 1 of 4 work right now because i had problems fishing the dang tower! I need to go with smaller wire as i ran out of room inside. I'll probably pre-wire a light bar for the front later and put it on an ACC switch. LED lighting is another passion of mine. I have a ...ummm....flashlight fetish.

EricB, i hated my old boat's outdrive. So many moving parts. Had to change the out drive oil every 2 years. Lubricate gimbal bearings. Was in the way when approaching the boat from the water. But i need to get used to the rudder at slow speeds vs outdrive at slow speeds. I'm sure I'll learn but right now i'm pathetic.

thatsmrmastercraft, thx man!

Thrall, yea i would like more hole shot and don't care about 40+ mph as i don't barefoot.

scott023, thx man! I've wanted a MC ever since i rode behind one at a ski club one summer. Think it was a 1979 S&S in 1990. It about jerked my arms off and i was in love!

Pickwick, I think you're right...totally agree.

Thanks again for all the replies and tips guys!

jsturvey
04-14-2014, 07:54 PM
Like yourself, I went from a 18' IO to my MC three years ago and I have not looked back. It's like going from a Toyota to a Corvette (literally in my case). Pulling off the vinyl just makes that boat pop. My neighbor across the street has a '02 X9 (black & red) and he is debating doing the same thing to his. I'll have to refer him to a pic of yours.

I had the winch strap break on mine a couple years ago at the ramp, but I was able to get a replacement at Academy. Luckily the boat buddy saved my tail.

Congrats on the new boat, and welcome to TT!

Double D
04-14-2014, 08:09 PM
Congrats and welcome. All I can offer, look at the Ramp and Clamp to replace your boat buddy.

Kyle
04-14-2014, 09:03 PM
First off welcome to TT.

That boat is beautiful. You will have a lot of fun with her. Looks like you have figured out about the more important things about her (20 beers in cooler ;) lol)

Reverse will always have the whine, or some kind of sound.

Keep the boat out of too shallow of water. The running gear is not cheap to replace. Get a depth gauge if you do not have one. It will save you tons of cash later.

Look in the prop thread about CNC vs non CNC. May wanna try the acme out as well.

Strap breaking. Well they do that. You drive on and off of these trailers. Drop in a little deeper on driving off but driving on is just a practiced skill. Every ramp is different and lake levels change. If you are too deep then the bunks don't stop you and you will slam into the boat buddy or R&C. Too shallow and you have to back down more. It is not uncommon to give her some throttle and drive the last 6-12" up the trailer. Not power loading it with full throttle but give her some throttle and encourage her to move up the trailer to the correct spot. Winching is something I don't do. I use the engine not my back lol. Note it's better to be a hair shallow than be too deep bc the bunks will stop you and prevent you from engaging R&C too hard. Yes you still have reverse but you will find out that reverse will change bow angle from straight to offset slightly because Mastercrafts back to the starboard side and the bow will swing port slightly.

There are countless threads that you prolly lurked through on the cleaning processes people use etc.

The tower will flex or sway when you cross wakes or rollers but you could check the bolts every once in a while.

Looks like your crew will have a great summer in a beautiful ride. Welcome

We look forward to seeing you in the MCOCD thread. You obviously have the disorder too ;)

Ryan
04-14-2014, 09:32 PM
That's an impressive first post and some very nice work on that boat!
Welcome to the forum Rek.

rek
04-14-2014, 09:42 PM
Like yourself, I went from a 18' IO to my MC three years ago and I have not looked back. It's like going from a Toyota to a Corvette (literally in my case). Pulling off the vinyl just makes that boat pop. My neighbor across the street has a '02 X9 (black & red) and he is debating doing the same thing to his. I'll have to refer him to a pic of yours.

I had the winch strap break on mine a couple years ago at the ramp, but I was able to get a replacement at Academy. Luckily the boat buddy saved my tail.

Congrats on the new boat, and welcome to TT!

I used both googone, 3m adhesive remover, and straight up acetone in a spray bottle. Best bang for the buck was the acetone IMO. Using one hand with the heat gun and the other pulling off the sticker was the best technique for me. I would have the heat gun working 3-4 inches in front of the hand that was pulling the sticker. If i went too close, the sticker would melt and peel. If too far away, the heat gun wouldn't loosen the sticker enough and come off in pieces. The first side took me an hour until i figured out a good technique but the second side took 20 minutes. Then a good polisher and polishing compound did the rest. Good luck.

rek
04-14-2014, 09:45 PM
Congrats and welcome. All I can offer, look at the Ramp and Clamp to replace your boat buddy.

I'm on the fence but your like the 4th guy to say get a RnC. Haha...resistance is futile.

rek
04-14-2014, 09:57 PM
First off welcome to TT.

That boat is beautiful. You will have a lot of fun with her. Looks like you have figured out about the more important things about her (20 beers in cooler ;) lol)

Reverse will always have the whine, or some kind of sound.

Keep the boat out of too shallow of water. The running gear is not cheap to replace. Get a depth gauge if you do not have one. It will save you tons of cash later.

Look in the prop thread about CNC vs non CNC. May wanna try the acme out as well.

Strap breaking. Well they do that. You drive on and off of these trailers. Drop in a little deeper on driving off but driving on is just a practiced skill. Every ramp is different and lake levels change. If you are too deep then the bunks don't stop you and you will slam into the boat buddy or R&C. Too shallow and you have to back down more. It is not uncommon to give her some throttle and drive the last 6-12" up the trailer. Not power loading it with full throttle but give her some throttle and encourage her to move up the trailer to the correct spot. Winching is something I don't do. I use the engine not my back lol. Note it's better to be a hair shallow than be too deep bc the bunks will stop you and prevent you from engaging R&C too hard. Yes you still have reverse but you will find out that reverse will change bow angle from straight to offset slightly because Mastercrafts back to the starboard side and the bow will swing port slightly.

There are countless threads that you prolly lurked through on the cleaning processes people use etc.

The tower will flex or sway when you cross wakes or rollers but you could check the bolts every once in a while.

Looks like your crew will have a great summer in a beautiful ride. Welcome

We look forward to seeing you in the MCOCD thread. You obviously have the disorder too ;)

Kyle, I dream about the built-in cooler now. The old way was grabbing a walmart cooler out of the garage, dragging it upstairs, filling it half way with ice and drinks, lugging it up into the boat, strapping it into the boat, which is totally in the walkway, and struggling to get another drink while telling everybody onboard to throw their empty's into a plastic sack.

Now, I save up some ice from the frige a day before and throw all my drinks/ice into a plastic bag. Dump it all into the onboard cooler. Grab another from the driver's seat which is right next to my left foot. Empty's go right back into the inboard as one comes out. At the end of the day take the same garbage bag and transfer the empty's into the bag and remove the drain plug. It's like winning the lottery i just love it but don't have to handle the big check. :)

Your comments on the ramp techniques. Read that twice. Good stuff. Can tell you're a 'been there done that' kinda guy thank you sir.

blackhawk
04-14-2014, 10:26 PM
REK - Yes, in a lot of cases you can rebuild your ballast pumps. I sell all the parts necessary to rebuild the Jabsco 18220 series pumps. I couldn't tell from your picture which model that you have. Many of the parts are interchangeable between models.

I also have a special right now on brand new Jabsco 18220 pumps which include the green impeller and free shipping for $220. Click on the link in my signature to go to my website. Feel free to give me a call if you need some help getting them apart. Here is a thread with some good pictures of a ballast pump repair.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42810

mikeg205
04-14-2014, 10:33 PM
Awesome - welcome!

mgs96ps
04-14-2014, 10:48 PM
Love the boat...congrats. On a side note, I've always been curious how the Honda Ridgeline does towing a 21 foot +/- boat. Do you feel it has adequate power for the task?

willg
04-14-2014, 10:51 PM
I replaced my pads on my tower and eliminated almost all the sway.
Details here: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=55764

Quinten
04-15-2014, 03:36 AM
Welcome to the forum.
And that is a nice way to start here, with alout of pictures.
Great looking boat :)

Double D
04-15-2014, 07:00 AM
I'm on the fence but your like the 4th guy to say get a RnC. Haha...resistance is futile.


What's even worse is I can't get one because my aftermarket trailer setup doesn't use a clamping device. I just know about all the boat buddy complaints. Get off the fence. :)

TN X-45
04-15-2014, 07:10 AM
The MCOCD is strong in this one.....

Fletchx7
04-15-2014, 09:13 AM
Beautiful boat! I like the clean look after taking off the X-9 decals. I've been debating on taking mine off and you may have convinced me to do it. It makes the boat look so much younger and clean. Nice work!

rek
04-15-2014, 11:36 AM
REK - Yes, in a lot of cases you can rebuild your ballast pumps. I sell all the parts necessary to rebuild the Jabsco 18220 series pumps. I couldn't tell from your picture which model that you have. Many of the parts are interchangeable between models.

I also have a special right now on brand new Jabsco 18220 pumps which include the green impeller and free shipping for $220. Click on the link in my signature to go to my website. Feel free to give me a call if you need some help getting them apart. Here is a thread with some good pictures of a ballast pump repair.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42810

Exactly this info. i was looking for. Yes, I have the 18220-0121 pump. Pulled it out last night and will open it up on my work bench sometime this week to see if its repairable.

rek
04-15-2014, 11:46 AM
Love the boat...congrats. On a side note, I've always been curious how the Honda Ridgeline does towing a 21 foot +/- boat. Do you feel it has adequate power for the task?

The Ridgeline is rated to tow 5,000lbs but is a 6cyl and is a little lacking in torque IMO. However, it tows surprisingly well for what many would argue is not a "truck". Between the boat, trailer, full tank of gas, and beer (i mean gear) I'd say we're 4,200lbs. If you count the family inside the vehicle and more gear that's another 500lbs so we're getting close to the 5,000lb mark.

I bought the boat in Athens, GA and hauled it thru Atlanta up to Chattanooga running 60-65mph the whole way and it did fine. Got 11mpg. The RL starts to struggle over 60+mph or going up a steep incline for extended periods of time. But it gets the job done. Towing around town and 10 miles from home to our local lake is absolutely no problem for the RL. It has a car like ride and has been rock solid in reliability so far. 2006 101k miles on it.

rek
04-15-2014, 11:50 AM
I replaced my pads on my tower and eliminated almost all the sway.
Details here: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=55764

awesome thx. great step by step instructions. Looks like I'll have to add this to my project list!

rek
04-15-2014, 12:03 PM
Couple of more pics of the audio upgrade. Had a spare 350w Vibe amp so i replaced the 100w clarion amp which feeds the tower speakers. So the rockford m262's get the RMS power they need now. Also, replaced the battery and swapped out the terminal cables. I'll probably clean up the wires and re-run the tower with better speaker wire next season. Ultimately, I want all class 'd' amps due to their small size and power efficiency while the engine/alternator is off.

Luther
04-15-2014, 01:02 PM
Great work you've done on the boat...looks very nice! Congrats on it! You've inspired me to post some pics as I am newer to these forums too. Now I just need to take the pics.

mzimme
04-15-2014, 01:07 PM
I have a feeling rek is going to be a long time contributing member here. He started his stay off strong.

Welcome Rek.

DonB
04-15-2014, 01:49 PM
Great thread, I too am a noob and learned from this.

supreme112279
04-15-2014, 02:02 PM
Rek.......where you at. I boat on chickamauga lake in Chattanooga and Weiss lake in Alabama

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

rek
04-15-2014, 02:52 PM
I have a feeling rek is going to be a long time contributing member here. He started his stay off strong.

Welcome Rek.

Thanks! Intend to help as much as possible. Still a noob but have learned a thing or two thanks to you guys.

rek
04-15-2014, 02:57 PM
Rek.......where you at. I boat on chickamauga lake in Chattanooga and Weiss lake in Alabama

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

I boat in chickamauga lake too. We usually put in at wolftever hwy 58 area either state park or the public ramp but can be found anywhere between the dam and soddy daisy. We also put in at Tims Ford in TN my old stomping grounds.

DemolitionMan
04-15-2014, 03:22 PM
Great looking boat!

neil.anderson63
04-15-2014, 05:41 PM
Welcome to TT. Nice looking 9! Seeing yours with the graphics off - I wish I had done this with our X9 20 minutes after it got home.
You have an acute case of MCOCD... drink 2 cold beers and wax the bilge!:D You guys will love this boat. X's 2 on getting a depth gauge.

JayBrown
04-15-2014, 05:50 PM
Welcome to TT great help here as im a noob as well beautiful boat looks like you and your family are in for a great summer!

FoggyNogginz
04-15-2014, 06:02 PM
Great looking boat, and welcome to TT. I had an X9 for eight years and loved it. Fantastically capable machine that drives like a sports car and rides like a limo. Enjoy it!

One note: I would replace the prop and go CNC. I did this on my X9 and now my X14. In both cases the change was amazing. just like your tires are the only part of your car that touches the road, your prop is doing the majority of shaping the center wake, controlling wash, adding/decreasing bow rise with pitch, cleaning up the wash for improving steering etc. It really can make a huge difference. The guys at ACME or OJ will both take good care of you. I'm an ACME fan...but that's just me. Enjoy!

KC

rek
04-15-2014, 06:50 PM
Great looking boat, and welcome to TT. I had an X9 for eight years and loved it. Fantastically capable machine that drives like a sports car and rides like a limo. Enjoy it!

One note: I would replace the prop and go CNC. I did this on my X9 and now my X14. In both cases the change was amazing. just like your tires are the only part of your car that touches the road, your prop is doing the majority of shaping the center wake, controlling wash, adding/decreasing bow rise with pitch, cleaning up the wash for improving steering etc. It really can make a huge difference. The guys at ACME or OJ will both take good care of you. I'm an ACME fan...but that's just me. Enjoy!

KC

Looks like the next $500 spent on the boat will be the prop based on yours and other comments on the forum about the big improvement swapping out props. I was in touch with Eric earlier today at OJ about repairing the damaged prop. For a new one, he suggested the 13 X 11.5 LC Splined XMP 3-blade. I'm going to send the damaged back to him tomorrow and get it repaired assuming it's repairable and think on but most likely pull the trigger on his recommendation.

mzimme
04-15-2014, 06:52 PM
Looks like the next $500 spent on the boat will be the prop based on yours and other comments on the forum about the big improvement swapping out props. I was in touch with Eric earlier today at OJ about repairing the damaged prop. For a new one, he suggested the 13 X 11.5 LC Splined XMP 3-blade. I'm going to send the damaged back to him tomorrow and get it repaired assuming it's repairable and think on but most likely pull the trigger on his recommendation.

You won't be disappointed. Eric knows his stuff.

rek
04-15-2014, 06:57 PM
Jaybrown, Foggynogginz, neilanderson63, DemolitionMan, thanks for the kind words! I'm pumped about getting pulled behind this thing for the first time. But even more excited to see my 9 year old get up on ski's for the first time this summer and my 13 year old son wakeboarding for the first time from a boat with ballast and a tower! This will be my wife's first time on ski's this year too. Oh, and I turn 40 in june so yea this will be a memorable year :D

mzimme
04-15-2014, 07:02 PM
Sounds like you're going to need a way to carry more than 20 beers for one of those events ;). Informed the wife or kids now that they're driving the boat home too! haha.

rek
04-15-2014, 07:29 PM
Great work you've done on the boat...looks very nice! Congrats on it! You've inspired me to post some pics as I am newer to these forums too. Now I just need to take the pics.

Post em man i'd like to see your x-star!

orbeamlb
04-15-2014, 09:11 PM
Welcome to the family REK! Boat looks great, you jumped in feet first into the deep end of the MCOCD pool and it shows. I replaced my Boat Buddy with a Ramp-N-Clamp and there's no comparison (the RNC works very well).

Mike B

mcLove
04-16-2014, 01:32 AM
Congrats and nice work. You will the x9. Great al around boat.

JMLVMI
04-16-2014, 01:55 AM
Looks like the next $500 spent on the boat will be the prop based on yours and other comments on the forum about the big improvement swapping out props. I was in touch with Eric earlier today at OJ about repairing the damaged prop. For a new one, he suggested the 13 X 11.5 LC Splined XMP 3-blade. I'm going to send the damaged back to him tomorrow and get it repaired assuming it's repairable and think on but most likely pull the trigger on his recommendation.

That's the prop I'm running (not splined b/c my boat's older), and it has been an amazing change. You won't believe the difference.

I saw you talking about your kids getting up for the first time...obviously these boats help tremendously with getting out of the hole, having a high tow point with the tower, etc...but consider looking for a barefoot boom as well. I have already taught a number of people to ski using that and it does wonders for their confidence.

rek
04-16-2014, 04:42 PM
That's the prop I'm running (not splined b/c my boat's older), and it has been an amazing change. You won't believe the difference.

I saw you talking about your kids getting up for the first time...obviously these boats help tremendously with getting out of the hole, having a high tow point with the tower, etc...but consider looking for a barefoot boom as well. I have already taught a number of people to ski using that and it does wonders for their confidence.

Dang it, now I have another $500 item on my 'to do' list! :mad::D

rek
04-18-2014, 06:53 AM
Pulled the bad ballast motor out of the boat. On the workbench it growls and slowly stops turning after about 25 seconds. Took it apart and used simple green to clean the parts where there was rust with a wire brush. (water intrusion) Used a little WD40 and silicon grease around moving parts then packed it with white lithium grease.

It still growls but after putting everything back together it ran solid for a good 60 seconds. So, maybe i can get another season out of her! Figured all this out by reading the polish your ballast thread 'blackhawk' link to 'bcd's post #10 here: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42810

rek
04-18-2014, 07:05 AM
A member PM me about how I cleaned up my teak. I know there's a huge thread on it but here was my response in case anyone else is interested:

First, I pressure washed it. That lifted a lot of the embedded dirt out. Then, I pressure washed it again and let it dry. The finish of the wood was grainy so i took a high grit sandpaper and lightly sanded it down up/down and all around. I then rinsed it off with the hose and let it dry again. Used the Starbrite teak care kit here:
http://www.amazon.com/Starbrite-Teak-Care-Kit-PINT/dp/B00004YO4T/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397818566&sr=1-1&keywords=starbrite+teak+kit

Just followed the instructions. Cleaner, Brightener, and then the oil. After each step i let it fully dry for 24hrs. After the oil step i sat it out on my wheel barrow all day in the sun flipping it over mid day. After about a week, I did a second coat of oil. I used all of the first 2 steps but only about half of the teak oil after the 2nd treatment. So, i'll probably just pressure wash it and treat it with oil once per year moving forward. Good luck!

blackhawk
04-18-2014, 10:00 AM
REK - If you had water inside your motor, you have a bad lip seal in the bronze pump or the pump cover o-ring is bad.

AlbertaSurfer
04-18-2014, 10:17 AM
Hey REK, make sure when you put the pump for your ballast back in, you install with the pump head facing down. Sounds like It was previously mounted upright, which many are, but if and when a leak happens it leaks into the motor housing. Installing it with the pump head down will help prolong it if it's going to leak again. Because the pumps are reversible, it's easy to reverse the intake and outlet hose on the pump, and just flip the switch block behind the ballast switch to have the pump run the other way.

Unless of course it was already installed with the head down, in that case... carry on sir!

jgraham37128
04-18-2014, 10:24 AM
Great write up. Love the blue and white!

pmikler
04-18-2014, 11:12 AM
Delete....Albertasurfer beat me to it....


Pulled the bad ballast motor out of the boat. On the workbench it growls and slowly stops turning after about 25 seconds. Took it apart and used simple green to clean the parts where there was rust with a wire brush. (water intrusion) Used a little WD40 and silicon grease around moving parts then packed it with white lithium grease.

It still growls but after putting everything back together it ran solid for a good 60 seconds. So, maybe i can get another season out of her! Figured all this out by reading the polish your ballast thread 'blackhawk' link to 'bcd's post #10 here: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=42810

rek
04-18-2014, 12:46 PM
REK - If you had water inside your motor, you have a bad lip seal in the bronze pump or the pump cover o-ring is bad.

Makes sense. What had me scratching my head is that the bad motor had two notches on the back plate and the other good motor only had 1. I'm pretty sure it's an alignment notch so you put everything back together correctly but the 2nd notch was just a hole and that's where the rust started as you could see it rusting from the inside of that notch. So, I put silicone caulk inside the 2nd notch plugging it up when putting things back together. It seemed to serve no purpose what so ever. I could be wrong but and always reserve the right to change my mind :)

rek
04-18-2014, 12:48 PM
Hey REK, make sure when you put the pump for your ballast back in, you install with the pump head facing down. Sounds like It was previously mounted upright, which many are, but if and when a leak happens it leaks into the motor housing. Installing it with the pump head down will help prolong it if it's going to leak again. Because the pumps are reversible, it's easy to reverse the intake and outlet hose on the pump, and just flip the switch block behind the ballast switch to have the pump run the other way.

Unless of course it was already installed with the head down, in that case... carry on sir!

Aha moment thx! But here's the strange thing....the good motor was mounted upside down and the bad motor was mounted correctly. But now, I want to go back and turn the other one around based on what you said above. :)

rek
04-21-2014, 09:06 AM
Added the JL Audio CL-RLC (http://www.jlaudio.com/cl-rlc-car-audio-system-expansion-98117)volume knob over the weekend. Ran it inline between the output of my bluetooth module and into the aux input of the clarion radio via the cd changer hack. The gains on the amps had to be adjusted way down as this thing puts out 7.5v into the preamp outs so I should get a stronger signal to the amps. I didn't think this would impact the output voltage of the clarion to the amps but it did.

Having a volume knob on the driver's side is going to be really nice. I've never liked volume up/down "buttons" to control volume. It's just not as quick and is clumsy IMO. In fact, when my clarion xmd1 finally dies I may just bypass it completely as my wife and I only do mp3's and pandora via bluetooth anyway. There's enough room below the volume knob to add another one to control tower/interior speakers independently without having to fade the radio.

moleson10
04-21-2014, 11:27 AM
Man, you are getting lots of help on this thread. I think we all like the noob threads. Reminds us of the fun we had w our first MC.

If not already mentioned, have your prop fixed and buy a new one. I know it's more money than you want to spend but trust me, its worth it. Saving your vacation from being ruined when you waste a prop and can't get a new one right away is priceless. Keep the repaired prop as your backup and run the new one. Make sure you test your repaired prop when you get it back. They don't always get the balance correct and you won't know till you run it.

Get some sacks for surfing/boarding and enjoy. That's a great all around boat and a looker too.

rek
04-21-2014, 11:48 AM
Man, you are getting lots of help on this thread. I think we all like the noob threads. Reminds us of the fun we had w our first MC.

If not already mentioned, have your prop fixed and buy a new one. I know it's more money than you want to spend but trust me, its worth it. Saving your vacation from being ruined when you waste a prop and can't get a new one right away is priceless. Keep the repaired prop as your backup and run the new one. Make sure you test your repaired prop when you get it back. They don't always get the balance correct and you won't know till you run it.

Get some sacks for surfing/boarding and enjoy. That's a great all around boat and a looker too.

Thanks moleson10. I just got off the phone with Eric at OJ. He's fixing my damaged 13x13 4blade right now and will send a 3-blade 13x11.5 XMP edge too ;)

Oh, and I just bought a surf board a minute ago. So, yea, it's been a $800 day so far and it's not even lunch yet. :cool:

CC2MC
04-21-2014, 12:00 PM
Thanks moleson10. I just got off the phone with Eric at OJ. He's fixing my damaged 13x13 4blade right now and will send a 3-blade 13x11.5 XMP edge too ;)

Oh, and I just bought a surf board a minute ago. So, yea, it's been a $800 day so far and it's not even lunch yet. :cool:

Awesome! I know those $800 days well. I would like to know how well that boat surfs. Just FYI, in reading about the swaying tower, as stated, it is normal for it to move a little bit. I typically lower mine and velcro it down to the grab rail with a fun noodle under it when I trailer it to keep it from moving too much. You don't have to do that, but that is just the MCOCD in me. I am not sure if this has been said or you already know, but it is not recommended to tube from the tower, although some do. Some may even say, don't even admit that you will tube with a boat like that. ;) Anyway, you and your family will have many great memories in this boat.

Like you, my family had a 4 cyl, 135 hp bow rider, and man how I appreciate my MC that much more.

rek
04-21-2014, 12:50 PM
Awesome! I know those $800 days well. I would like to know how well that boat surfs. Just FYI, in reading about the swaying tower, as stated, it is normal for it to move a little bit. I typically lower mine and velcro it down to the grab rail with a fun noodle under it when I trailer it to keep it from moving too much. You don't have to do that, but that is just the MCOCD in me. I am not sure if this has been said or you already know, but it is not recommended to tube from the tower, although some do. Some may even say, don't even admit that you will tube with a boat like that. ;) Anyway, you and your family will have many great memories in this boat.

Like you, my family had a 4 cyl, 135 hp bow rider, and man how I appreciate my MC that much more.

Thx for the advice I may just try the tower trick on our next outing. The kids still like to tube but plan on getting them to evolve to other sports. I'll use the lower tow ring for sure. Will post my experience with surfing the x9 in the next few weeks. I'm sure it will lead me into adding ballast though as it's my understanding the 209 hull needs lots of weight and I only have factory ballast right now.

rek
04-22-2014, 06:06 PM
Eric at OJ fixed my prop on Monday and these arrived at my door today. (Tuesday) Wow great service! The damaged prop looks brand new. If only he could fix all my mistakes (beyond props) in life oh well :D

The CNC prop looks amazing. Taking a day off this Friday to try it out. Fist pump! :headbang:

snork
04-22-2014, 07:19 PM
very nice, use a new ss cotter pin

HRC
04-22-2014, 07:53 PM
Beautiful boat. Great work.

SunCoast 83
04-22-2014, 08:09 PM
Loved reading this thread. Great job on all the improvements! This boat looks great and while I loved the tribal decals back in the day (I was working PT at an MC Dealer when these boats where rolling in new) I must agree that the clean look is MUCH better and takes years off the age of the boat

This will bring you and your family many years of happiness. Congrats and Welcome Aboard

neil.anderson63
04-22-2014, 10:37 PM
The new prop might make a singing noise when you go into forward gear at idle - No worries, many props like that one will sing at a low rpm.

jakethebt
04-23-2014, 05:21 PM
The MCOCD is strong in this one.....

I think you meant to say...

"Strong in this one the MCOCD is..."

rek
04-23-2014, 05:36 PM
The new prop might make a singing noise when you go into forward gear at idle - No worries, many props like that one will sing at a low rpm.

I really look forward to that if so.

rek
04-23-2014, 05:38 PM
I think you meant to say...

"Strong in this one the MCOCD is..."

:toast: It's because I'm surrounded by Masters. 8p

LittleFuss
04-23-2014, 05:58 PM
looks great. insulation on a direct drive makes a huge difference...

rek
04-24-2014, 01:15 PM
looks great. insulation on a direct drive makes a huge difference...

Yep....I hear nothing from the motor box only a low rumble out of the exhaust. Amazingly quiet compared to my old boat. The first time we launched, my wife was in the truck ready to pull up the ramp wondering why I hadn't started the boat up yet. As she stepped out of the vehicle to see if something was wrong i started pulling off the trailer and her mouth dropped. She never heard me crank it up or running idle a good 30 seconds prior. The look on her face was worth the $200 and full day to remove the old glue and apply the dampening. :D

JMLVMI
04-24-2014, 02:25 PM
The new prop might make a singing noise when you go into forward gear at idle - No worries, many props like that one will sing at a low rpm.

If it's just like mine, it will make a growling sound during acceleration that my old Nibral prop never made.

You should go out with both and feel the difference, it's amazing.

rek
04-27-2014, 04:40 PM
Hey guys, went out Friday and Saturday this weekend. Had a blast with the family. Surfed for the first time behind the boat. My son did the wake board thing and had a blast. Here's a few pics, more impressions, and shameless questions. :D

- The trailer isn't smooth accelerating or when applying the brakes. It 'clunks' especially braking at the hitch hard. Maybe it's just the surge brakes engaging/disengaging ? Checked the brake fluid and its full. I'm starting to get used to it maybe its normal?

- Surfboard doesn't fit in the factory rack. Does someone make a surfboard rack that fits the 3 niple mount / screw? Or what do you suggest? I'll drill if i have to but would rather not.

- Got the ballast pumps working with new green impellers but the factory bag under the rear seat is leaking from the intake side. Suggested fix? I contacted wakemakers to see what they suggested in terms of a replacement bag plus additional ballast. I was unable to throw the rope yesterday. Only had the center ski locker filled though. In need of a bigger wake and to lose 20lbs.

-Depth finder is stuck between 1.5 - 2.5 feet. I think i saw it working once for a moment but then reverts back. Bad transducer?

-The serpentine belt is starting to squeal. It only has 75hours but the boat is 11 years old. So I ordered a new one. It looks easy to replace but didn't find anything on this forum on how to. Any links?

- When i bought the boat the drive shaft coupler was leaking 3 drops per second in gear or not. Replaced with the gortex but must have tightened the nut too much as i got no leaks. This weekend I did loosen the nut and got 1 drip every 5 seconds and 1 drip not in gear every 3 minutes. So, I tightened the nut 1/16 of a turn hoping i get 1-2 drips per minute and none at idle. Will see if that works out.

- Bough some turtle wax spray in the bottle to lube up the trailer bunks. I've been having trouble getting the boat on/off the trailer even with a good 6" of fender below the water line. I think part of the problem is because the carpet is starting to split on the inner most bunks. The spray wax worked great and it slide right on and off now. But, I probably just need to tear all of it off and re-carpet. Do you guys carpet only or should I replace the bunks too? The wood looks ok but again 11 years old.

- Stupid boat buddy. Spacked it with a hammer to fix the bent pen and it worked. Carpeted it with some 3m 77 spray to keep it from scratching the bow. I'm going to keep it for this season but I just don't like it at all after researching the ramp-n-clamp setup.

- Is there any easy way to get another 6"-12" of height out of my bimini top? Either replacing the poles are buying some extensions? It being low is nice because you get better shade when the sun is 3 or 9 oclock but i have to duck way down to keep from hitting my head.

Had the CNC OJ XMP 13x11.5 3-blade prop on Friday and then the factory 13x13 4 blade Saturday. It's hard to do an accurate comparison as i'm used to neither props as I just bought the boat. I will say the CNC prop seems smoother with a bit more hole shot than the 4 blade. My OCD wants to do an objective comparison test with a GPS onboard but the wife will just role her eyes at me. :rolleyes:

Got to give a shout out to the built-in cooler. I LOVE IT :)

My son is turning 13 in May and wants to have his buddies come out on the boat one saturday for his bday party. So, it'll be me a four 13 year olds. Wish me luck! ;)

I must have told my wife 5+ times how much this forum rocks and how great you guys are for helping me along the way! She's starting to get jealous lol. Seriously, I really really really appreciate all the excellent feedback and making me feel at home on teamtalk!

JMLVMI
04-27-2014, 06:45 PM
My trailer clunks when I do anything other than a rolling start, I've read similar from folks on here.

snork
04-27-2014, 06:58 PM
Beautiful X9
More kids the better, its something they'll remember all their lives
before you invest any more money in the boat replace the wakeboard, shouldn't cost more than $250 for something within the last 2 years, theres a huge difference between the mid 90's wakeboard to something recent
not sure if the '04 and newer board racks would fit the tower but look into it and if they do you can sell the '03 racks
Live with the lower bimini better closer than further IMO, if you do replace it go bigger

waterlogged882
04-27-2014, 07:49 PM
..........

waterlogged882
04-27-2014, 07:53 PM
..........

MI_Corey
04-27-2014, 07:58 PM
Beautiful X9
More kids the better, its something they'll remember all their lives
before you invest any more money in the boat replace the wakeboard, shouldn't cost more than $250 for something within the last 2 years, theres a huge difference between the mid 90's wakeboard to something recent
not sure if the '04 and newer board racks would fit the tower but look into it and if they do you can sell the '03 racks
Live with the lower bimini better closer than further IMO, if you do replace it go bigger

I agree. The new boards are a whole new deal and you will never want rubber bindings again.

FoggyNogginz
05-09-2014, 01:15 AM
Hey guys, went out Friday and Saturday this weekend. Had a blast with the family. Surfed for the first time behind the boat. My son did the wake board thing and had a blast. Here's a few pics, more impressions, and shameless questions. :D



Surfboard doesn't fit in the factory rack. Does someone make a surfboard rack that fits the 3 niple mount / screw? Or what do you suggest? I'll drill if i have to but would rather not.



- Got the ballast pumps working with new green impellers but the factory bag under the rear seat is leaking from the intake side. Suggested fix? I contacted wakemakers to see what they suggested in terms of a replacement bag plus additional ballast. I was unable to throw the rope yesterday. Only had the center ski locker filled though. In need of a bigger wake and to lose 20lbs.



!


Glad that you guys were able to put it in the water and have a little fun this weekend.

When I had that same tower I removed the rubber gaskets from one of the board racks which gave me about a half inch. By doing this I could fit my CWB Ride board in there just fine, and I would use a bungee cord to secure it. It might not have been the most attractive way to do this but it worked like a champ and was really cheap.

I've never tried to repair one of those ballast bags but I'm sure that it can be done. A friend of mine repairs commercial rafts for a living and I think you can probably patch almost any whole these days. Assuming that you have the right epoxy... When surfing behind the ProStar 209, I had the most luck using the fly high fat seat and folding in the Starboard leg against the engine cover which turned the bag into an L shape. Admittedly this was a lot of weight for that hull, but it sure did create a nice wave at 10.5 mph.

Here's a video of that wave from a few years ago. http://vimeo.com/43373846

I also had fly high make a custom bag to fit under that rear seat which was a lot bigger than the factory one that Mastercraft provided. Having both bags, the custom one and the fat seat, gave me options depending upon how many people were in the boat that day. In the video above we had the front locker filled and we were using the FatSeat bag, with the Starboard leg folded in against the engine compartment.

Hope this helps.

rek
05-09-2014, 06:02 AM
Glad that you guys were able to put it in the water and have a little fun this weekend.

When I had that same tower I removed the rubber gaskets from one of the board racks which gave me about a half inch. By doing this I could fit my CWB Ride board in there just fine, and I would use a bungee cord to secure it. It might not have been the most attractive way to do this but it worked like a champ and was really cheap.

I've never tried to repair one of those ballast bags but I'm sure that it can be done. A friend of mine repairs commercial rafts for a living and I think you can probably patch almost any whole these days. Assuming that you have the right epoxy... When surfing behind the ProStar 209, I had the most luck using the fly high fat seat and folding in the Starboard leg against the engine cover which turned the bag into an L shape. Admittedly this was a lot of weight for that hull, but it sure did create a nice wave at 10.5 mph.

Here's a video of that wave from a few years ago. http://vimeo.com/43373846

I also had fly high make a custom bag to fit under that rear seat which was a lot bigger than the factory one that Mastercraft provided. Having both bags, the custom one and the fat seat, gave me options depending upon how many people were in the boat that day. In the video above we had the front locker filled and we were using the FatSeat bag, with the Starboard leg folded in against the engine compartment.

Hope this helps.

Ended up just wedging the surfboard into the bottom part of the rack and bungee the top as it doesn't fit inside the top of the clamp. This sounds bad but actually works to my satisfaction. Its very secure...if the board comes loose i have bigger problems. :)

I'm about to just give up on the factory sack under the rear seat. I've epoxied it twice and both times it still leaks badly. There's probably a much better method to fix it but it's only a 350lb sack, has mold stains all over it, and I can upgrade it to a highfly pro w707 which is 750lbs and supposed to fit under the 209/x9 rear seat. (pic attached from wakemakers)

So, I'm about to pull the trigger on that bag and stick with the factory ski locker bag for now. Later, will likely add some ballast to the walkway to get the boat leaning to the riders favored side. That's the plan anyway.

The video you posted is excellent. I had actually seen it in another post and showed my wife. She can't seem to understand WHY we need to fool with ballast but your video was the perfect visual for her to 'get it'! Man if i can get a wake like that in my x9 i will be a very very happy guy. Thx!

FoggyNogginz
05-09-2014, 09:21 AM
Have fun with it! I'm actually trying to get a wave that nice behind my x14v now, and I know that it's going to take me several weeks of configurations to figure it out. I have the ballast bags, lead, etc to figure it out...I'm just impatient! Haha

rek
05-12-2014, 10:47 AM
More work done to the X9 this weekend. Replaced the old clarion speakers with Rockford M262's so now there's a total of 8. Much better sound and more modern looking speaker.

No picture but replaced the serpentine belt too. It was starting to squeal. The new belt....problem solved and super easy to replace.

Ryan
05-12-2014, 11:05 AM
More work done to the X9 this weekend. Replaced the old clarion speakers with Rockford M262's so now there's a total of 8. Much better sound and more modern looking speaker.

No picture but replaced the serpentine belt too. It was starting to squeal. The new belt....problem solved and super easy to replace.

They look great. Clean boat for the age. Is the vinyl original?

rek
05-12-2014, 01:37 PM
They look great. Clean boat for the age. Is the vinyl original?

Yep. Original. Previous owner rarely used it. 70hrs in 11 years. :D

Grover777
06-19-2014, 12:39 PM
Where did u find the bluetooth hack info!

rek
06-20-2014, 11:25 AM
http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/archive/index.php/t-1373.html

There's a schematic here on how to do it and where to get the din connector. But basically it's a positive left and right, common ground and a toggle switch to get the radio in and out of the CD changer mode for the aux to turn on and off.

I use a sure electronics Bluetooth module and the sound is as good as CD.

rek
07-25-2014, 06:54 PM
Added boat buckles today. Had to go to Ace Hardware to get new nuts that actually threaded the bolt that was in the packaging. Why is the hardware that comes with just about anything these days junk? Other than that, pretty easy install.

#1 - Identify placement for the buckles and mark 'x' for the hole. Drill.
#2 - Pull out tail lights to access the back side of the hole
#3 - Thread the bolt.... nut/washer is on the inside
#4 - Tighten, test, install tail light

At the end of a long day on the water, I'm really going to enjoy these. Next up, new bunk carpet and replace the damper in the trailer actuator to stop the "clunk" when braking and accelerating.

lopott
07-26-2014, 07:25 AM
Agenda surf sells the corson wakesurf tower that will fit on your tower it is complete and doubles as a Bimini. Check it out bid thread on wakeworld.

Ryan
07-26-2014, 07:44 AM
Added boat buckles today. Had to go to Ace Hardware to get new nuts that actually threaded the bolt that was in the packaging. Why is the hardware that comes with just about anything these days junk? Other than that, pretty easy install.

#1 - Identify placement for the buckles and mark 'x' for the hole. Drill.
#2 - Pull out tail lights to access the back side of the hole
#3 - Thread the bolt.... nut/washer is on the inside
#4 - Tighten, test, install tail light

At the end of a long day on the water, I'm really going to enjoy these. Next up, new bunk carpet and replace the damper in the trailer actuator to stop the "clunk" when braking and accelerating.

I don't think I've ever seen the grommet light frame bolted
On before. Have you had trouble losing trailer lights?

I should add these too.

JulioX2
07-26-2014, 10:04 AM
Your actuator damper is shot....

Not sure if you're trailer was made by Reliable, if that's the case you can't get replacement parts anymore for the damper. Will have to get the retrofit kit from UFP. Go to the trailer section on the forum, couple guys have showed how to go about to replacing it.
I had the same issues. I replaced it with the new UFP and ttrailer hauls smoothly now.

KingQuad700
07-26-2014, 09:37 PM
Your boat looks great. Looks really good without the X graphics / decals.
I have a 1990 Tristar 190. I just put a new prop on my boat. It have a three blade from factory (13x13). I replaced it with a ACME 541, 3-blade 13x12. I boat is now like a new one. Handles excellent, great hole shot, even increased my top end by 1 mph. Helped my fuel consumption also. My out prop was tired and dinged, had a a lot of vibration too.
I also had a ramp-n-clamp on my trailer which I took off. It destroyed my pin stripes on my bow and damaged my rub rail. I took it off. I do not recommend it for a Tristar. You will not have any issues if it clears your bow rub rail.
Steve
1990 Tristar 190 OB
351W
ACME 541 Prop

rek
07-27-2014, 11:09 AM
I don't think I've ever seen the grommet light frame bolted
On before. Have you had trouble losing trailer lights?

I should add these too.

The boots on the old lights wouldn't fit on the new LED lights i purchased so i decided to just bolt them on instead. While i wasn't crazy drilling into the trailer, I'm happy with the installation. No water intrusion and the lights are probably 10x+ brighter than the old bulbs. I converted the backup lights to brake for additional safety.

rek
07-27-2014, 11:10 AM
Agenda surf sells the corson wakesurf tower that will fit on your tower it is complete and doubles as a Bimini. Check it out bid thread on wakeworld.

great suggestion....i'm looking into it now!

rek
07-27-2014, 11:13 AM
Not sure if you're trailer was made by Reliable, if that's the case you can't get replacement parts anymore for the damper. Will have to get the retrofit kit from UFP. Go to the trailer section on the forum, couple guys have showed how to go about to replacing it.
I had the same issues. I replaced it with the new UFP and ttrailer hauls smoothly now.

Yea, i'm debating on just replacing the entire actuator vs. taking it apart and replacing just the damper ($40 part). I inquired with etrailer and this is what they had to say. link. (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1sINdj_houhk2TB_Cmm8fPP3POhp1KwADypB8YnjOlx8/edit?usp=sharing)

neil.anderson63
07-27-2014, 11:17 AM
rek - You've done some great work on your boat. Most of all, you're getting some family lake time. Your MCOCD has really kicked into high gear since purchase!

rek
07-27-2014, 11:19 AM
Your boat looks great. Looks really good without the X graphics / decals.
I have a 1990 Tristar 190. I just put a new prop on my boat. It have a three blade from factory (13x13). I replaced it with a ACME 541, 3-blade 13x12. I boat is now like a new one. Handles excellent, great hole shot, even increased my top end by 1 mph. Helped my fuel consumption also. My out prop was tired and dinged, had a a lot of vibration too.
I also had a ramp-n-clamp on my trailer which I took off. It destroyed my pin stripes on my bow and damaged my rub rail. I took it off. I do not recommend it for a Tristar. You will not have any issues if it clears your bow rub rail.
Steve
1990 Tristar 190 OB
351W
ACME 541 Prop

Thanks. Removing the "X9" sticker was probably the most satisfying thing I've done to the boat given the easy removal and dramatic difference in appeal. I did replace that crappy damaged prop (pic on page 1 of this thread) with a CNC machined one from OJ. 13X13 3 blade per Eric and he fixed the old one for a backup.

rek
07-27-2014, 11:47 AM
More work done yesterday. New bunk carpet. Somehow i talked the entire family into helping me. Wife cut and helped remove the old carpet. Daughter cleaned up staples and old carpet from the driveway and my teenage son watched, asked questions, and didn't complain. lol. Took about 3.5 hrs to complete. Probably would have taken all day without help. The boards were in great shape so i just recovered with marine carpet. Next time, I'll replace everything.

Also, my final attempt to fix the ballast bags; where the nozzles are separating from the bag. This time, I'm using loctite pl premium 3x strong product which was suggested from several of you guys on another thread. Some pics of the work. As you can see, i used C clamps and hand tools to press the flange to the bag to get a stronger press while the adhesive dries. Will test next time out to see if i get no leaks :D

No pics but in an effort to get more bass without building a box which i may ultimately do. I stuffed carpet above the baffle board under the driver's dash where the 10" subwoofer sits. Unfortunately, MC didn't attempt to seal the front and rear wave so the subwoofer just flops around producing more midbass than anything else. Stuffing the top is an attempt to turn this into a true baffle board. But i haven't tested it yet to see if i get more output and strong bass. If not, building a box will be on the 'todo' list.

rek
07-27-2014, 09:19 PM
rek - You've done some great work on your boat. Most of all, you're getting some family lake time. Your MCOCD has really kicked into high gear since purchase!


I take MCOCD as a great compliment! Thanks for noticing :D

TNX5TY
07-28-2014, 03:15 PM
This may have inspired me to take the decal off of my 2001 X5. Boat looks so good. I know you're proud.

TNX5TY
07-28-2014, 03:18 PM
Did it require anything special to remove the decal cleanly?

rek
07-28-2014, 07:25 PM
Did it require anything special to remove the decal cleanly?

Mostly technique, patience, and a heat gun. Here's what I did:

- Heat up a 2-3 feet section of the sticker for a good minute on low setting to get started
- Use finger nail to lift the sticker at the corner with left hand (going left to right)
- Once you peel enough back to get the entire top/bottom and fistful of sticker...
- With right hand keep the heat gun on low setting about 12" from left hand and 12" from sticker (this keeps the adhesive warm where you're about to pull)
- As the left hand pulls the sticker up the right hand moves along with the left so there's a constant and even motion between both hands.

*If you get the sticker too hot it melts and tears in two. If you don't keep the sticker hot enough the adhesive doesn't release and tears. It's like the 3 bears story.

Doing the above allowed me to peel the entire sticker off without having to go back and work on tiny sections that tore. On the first side it took me almost two hours before i figured out a technique. Then, on the second side i got the whole thing off in 30 minutes and never had to go back.

I did have a plastic putty knife handy, acetone, and 3m adhesive remover but only had to use a product once in a stubborn section.

After the stickers were off. I immediately polished the boat with 3M polish/oxidation remover. One side of the boat that faced the most sun needed a good cut polish to remove the oxidation outside the sticker to remove the shadow. But all in all, this was all very easy to do it just need some elbow and good polisher. After the polish, I put a coat of 3m marine wax. Then aereospace 303. The results are in the pics. :D

rek
09-28-2014, 03:18 PM
Had a great first year in our first Mastercraft this year. Put almost 40 hours on it this summer. First time winterizing a MC, here's what I did:


Hooked up the hose and got the temperature up. Changed Oil and filter.
Used a drill pump to remove ATF. New ATF.
Removed the thermostat and drained all lower hoses.
Drained both sides of engine.
After I got all the water out that I could find, i hooked everything back up minus the thermostat.
5-gallon bucket of -50 RV pink
Ran the engine for about a minute until pink came out of the exhast and shut it down.
Installed the thermostat back in ready for summer after a good clean up and new impeller
Deflated the tires down to 30 psi to take some stress off the side walls
Removed battery, cushions, and just about anything not tied down
Covered it with the custom cover and tarp over the top as it sits outside.


Few notes:
- I did not drain the exhaust manifolds. Assuming whatever water was inside pushed through when the pink came out. Wife said a little water came out then nothing then pink.
- My depth gauge is stuck at 2ft deep. I think it's the black box in the picture but doesn't have a part number on it. Anyone know what to replace it with or a good 'how to'? Is it a transducer? (last pic)

Probably overkill removing the thermostat and draining any water by hand but i didn't want to take any chances especially my first winterization with this boat.

Any suggestions or tips are appreciated!

rek
09-28-2014, 03:24 PM
Also have to post my favorite picture from the summer. Putting the boat in the water at Tims Ford lake for my 40th B-day weekend. Best weekend ever!!! Love this pic.

jgraham37128
09-28-2014, 08:12 PM
Nice boat.....find the money to store it at Tim's ford boat storage the vinyl interior will thank you for it in the spring. It's the best money you will spend on your boat.

uplander
09-28-2014, 08:51 PM
inside storage - your boat will love you for it

blackhawk
09-28-2014, 09:54 PM
REK - No need to remove the thermostat. Take the large hose loose that is right below your hand in the picutre. Pour antifreeze into that hose until it starts running out of the housing where it was removed from. You can fill your block this way without having to remove the thermostat. Drain all the water out first though.

mikeg205
09-29-2014, 12:29 AM
Nice job REK - yes the black thing is a transducer... it does not look like a thru hull transducer.. any air between the hull and the transducer will cause read incorrectly. before you replace it test it by pouring enough water in your bilge so the base transducer is full submerged. Boat in water of course -- Looks like you have enough tire to hand it over the side as well..

I am a believer of draining manifolds to remove any remaining water. Also a good place to drain any rust flake or heavy crud.... the risers/manifolds have a rear cavity where water can hide - but alcohol mixes well with water so you should be ok.

The picture is the back of the riser/manifold where the plugs go.

rek
09-29-2014, 08:17 AM
thanks for all the tips guys! The transducer peeled right off the boat when i reached down to inspect it. Perhaps i can clean the are where it mounted and re-apply it to see if that fixes the depth gauge. Not sure what to use....it looks like it was glued on?

02ProstarSammyD
09-29-2014, 12:52 PM
Clear epoxy for the transducer.

Also just a suggestion but I've always blocked my trailer to get the wheels up. Not familiar with the theory of lowering the pressure but I would think that would cause issues with the tires. Also your tarp is probably not going to work. Water is going to pool and weight it down. A good fitting cover is worth its weight in gold. and shouldn't need anything else. Atleast if theres an issue with the top you can see it.

EarlyriserX9
09-29-2014, 01:24 PM
Clear epoxy for the transducer.

Also just a suggestion but I've always blocked my trailer to get the wheels up. Not familiar with the theory of lowering the pressure but I would think that would cause issues with the tires. Also your tarp is probably not going to work. Water is going to pool and weight it down. A good fitting cover is worth its weight in gold. and shouldn't need anything else. Atleast if theres an issue with the top you can see it.

I've always had sunbrella waterline covers from skiboatcovers.com, but still I wrap a tarp over everything like the OP did. I feel like it saves life on the cover and covers the tower and all. Can't wait till I can afford a new boat with the over-the-tower cover :)

rek
10-04-2014, 04:03 PM
Yea the custom cover with a tarp over the top works fine. The bungee cords at the bottom hold the tarp tight and there's no problem with the rain water running off especially with the tarp over the tower. It makes a Teepee. Believe it or not the upholstery is pristine despite not having it sheltered. Aerospace 303 and MCOCD seems to work.

Tristar-X-9
10-06-2014, 10:19 PM
Thanks rek, just upgraded from an 88 tri-star to an x-9, and was looking for a winterization process

rek
11-30-2014, 03:47 PM
Thanks rek, just upgraded from an 88 tri-star to an x-9, and was looking for a winterization process

Happy to help. This thread is to thank and to help others! More upgrades to come 2015!!!! I love me some Team Talk haha!

Prostarski190
11-30-2014, 06:54 PM
Happy to help. This thread is to thank and to help others! More upgrades to come 2015!!!! I love me some Team Talk haha!

That's an awesome looking boat, I love the 209/X9. Great job on tackling the winterization on your own. I just winterized my 197 today and it was 70 in Franklin, TN. I was curious if you fogged the cylinders as there's no mention of it in your post.

rek
12-01-2014, 02:43 AM
While i did fog my old boat which had a carb motor by spraying the intake, I did not fog the X9 this year. It seems there are more opinions saying the fogging oil can clog the injectors than others saying it's not a problem. But removing spark plugs and spraying directly into each cylinder should be safe. I've been lazy this year :) Hmmm.....may do that next year :D

neil.anderson63
12-01-2014, 10:02 AM
I've heard the "do or don't" factor depends if boat has catalytic converters. Don't if it has converters. Fogging seems to be a Ginger or MaryAnn opinion. I'm a MaryAnn fan with converters. No fog, little shot in each cylinder when I winterized.

CruisinGA
12-01-2014, 11:01 AM
I fog my X9 through each spark plug hole, install new plugs and turn it over a few times to distribute the oil.

To be honest, I really don't think it's necessary unless you are storing a boat outdoors or in a humid climate.

SunCoast 83
12-03-2014, 05:09 PM
Yea the custom cover with a tarp over the top works fine. The bungee cords at the bottom hold the tarp tight and there's no problem with the rain water running off especially with the tarp over the tower. It makes a Teepee. Believe it or not the upholstery is pristine despite not having it sheltered. Aerospace 303 and MCOCD seems to work.

I've sworn by 303 for the last 10 years on both my MC's. Looks like you have done a good job covering the boat for storage, might I recommend covering the fiberglass fenders as well. The sun will give them a beating if not. The PO of mine kept the trailer outside so it took days of compounding to restore my fenders. Just my MCOCD as well :rolleyes:

If you eventually can get her stored inside you will be glad you did. I have for years now and will never go back :D

Btw love the look without the tribal decal. Nice and sleek. Congrats on your boat and welcome aboard!!

rek
12-03-2014, 07:49 PM
I've sworn by 303 for the last 10 years on both my MC's. Looks like you have done a good job covering the boat for storage, might I recommend covering the fiberglass fenders as well. The sun will give them a beating if not. The PO of mine kept the trailer outside so it took days of compounding to restore my fenders. Just my MCOCD as well :rolleyes:

If you eventually can get her stored inside you will be glad you did. I have for years now and will never go back :D

Btw love the look without the tribal decal. Nice and sleek. Congrats on your boat and welcome aboard!!

Thanks i've got it covered up better now than what's shown in the pics. Yea, i would love inboard storage....one day!

TN Barefooter
12-08-2014, 01:51 PM
Rek, great job with the boat. Where are you located?

In Hoc,
TNBarefooter

rek
12-08-2014, 05:39 PM
Rek, great job with the boat. Where are you located?

In Hoc,
TNBarefooter

Live in the Chattanooga area so we boat the river/bay also Tims Ford lake a few times per year too as the water is so much nicer there than what we have here.

In Hoc brother!

CheeseSteak1
12-08-2014, 06:00 PM
Rek, can you provide info on the LEDs you installed in the tweeter cavities? I have an '03 and replaced all the 6.5" speakers with nothing in the old tweeter spot. Looks great!

rek
12-08-2014, 06:45 PM
Yes will try to dig up a receipt on these and reply back in 24hrs. They are a perfect fit and the face plate defused the light which is what you want in a rear facing or cabin light for max spread. However they are too bright at night IMO. Thinking about adding a resister in the spring. Hmm....with a knob....hmmm.

rek
12-08-2014, 07:59 PM
Found it. Ordered from Super Bright LEDs website:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/costume-lighting/round-led-accent-light/17/

Ordered the Chrome finish with blue led light. $4 each. Great fit.

ULITE-C-W3 Cool White Chrome Plastic

CheeseSteak1
12-08-2014, 09:13 PM
Found it. Ordered from Super Bright LEDs website:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/costume-lighting/round-led-accent-light/17/

Ordered the Chrome finish with blue led light. $4 each. Great fit.

ULITE-C-W3 Cool White Chrome Plastic

Awesome! Thanks

CheeseSteak1
01-20-2015, 11:14 AM
Rek, I purchased the LEDs you recommended and I'm going to knock this project out this weekend. Any chance you can provide a quick rundown on wiring a DPDT rocker switch? I see 6 points of contact on the back. thanks

rek
02-03-2015, 06:44 PM
Sorry, I'm not going to be more help than google on that one. All i did is tap into the navigation light already wired in the tower.

Rek, I purchased the LEDs you recommended and I'm going to knock this project out this weekend. Any chance you can provide a quick rundown on wiring a DPDT rocker switch? I see 6 points of contact on the back. thanks

rek
05-22-2015, 01:55 PM
Second year in the "new to me" Mastercraft X9. More work completed and figured I'd share some info along with pics! :D

Trailer - So as many of you know Reliable no longer make parts for their trailers. Or at least my 2003 PS209 trailer. Found the master cylinder bone dry this spring (cracked) and the shock is wore out. (clunk clunk) No way to replace these parts (found some close but no cigar) so I bit the bullet and bought the reliable to UFP brake actuator (WAY-47564k43).
Pretty easy install as it is a bolt on. Hooked up brake line and bled the brakes.

However, i found that one of my brake calipers was seized up after a test drive. The wheel was very hot to the touch and the disc brake was extremely hot. Thought it was a bearing but nope it was the caliper. Kodiak makes bolt on replacements for the reliable calipers but for another $200 i bought the UFP brake kit which includes new routers, calipers, brake pads, and bearing buddy which uses grease packing instead of the oil bath. My oil bath caps were starting to crack and the allen screws were stripped when replacing the gear oil. Also, they are press fit which is a huge pain to remove and reliable no longer makes the press fit anymore just the threaded which came on later trailer models. So, everything gets replaced with UFP from the coupler all the way back to the brakes. Only the brake lines themselves remain.

DooSPX
05-22-2015, 03:45 PM
That boat looks great! I love the clean look. You did great! Hope you and your family gets many years of happiness from her.

rek
05-24-2015, 06:06 AM
Old sub:

Elemental Designs 11kv.2 in stock location. Tried stuffing to better wall off the rear wave from front but never got a true infinite baffle sound. Bass was muddy and output pathetic.

New sub:

Elemental Designs 16kv.2 in 1.9cuft net stuffed with 2.5" open cell foam (egg crate). Reinforced internal bracing and fiberglass exterior.

rek
05-24-2015, 06:24 AM
Removed the old Clarion XMD1. Replaced with a NVX 7 band EQ. Sound quality is much better as it has a strong pre-amp and the aux in is cleaner. Allows me to easily fade between tower speakers vs cabin and adjust the bass level. Also added two USB chargers so the phones are charging in the glovebox. Using a bluetooth remote on the steering wheel and JL Audio CL-RLC remove on the driver's side to control everything. Much better than the stock setup. :D

rek
05-24-2015, 06:29 AM
Step rubber padding was replaced. It was beginning to crack and the adhesive lost its adhesiveness over the years. Pulled it off. Cleaned up the mess using a scraper and simple green. Polished the fenders and custom cut new step ups bought off ebay. Worked out well I think.

rek
05-25-2015, 08:42 AM
Here's a pic of the remote setup. JL Audio HD-RLC and Satechi bluetooth remote.

Old sub:

Elemental Designs 11kv.2 in stock location. Tried stuffing to better wall off the rear wave from front but never got a true infinite baffle sound. Bass was muddy and output pathetic.

New sub:

Elemental Designs 16kv.2 in 1.9cuft net stuffed with 2.5" open cell foam (egg crate). Reinforced internal bracing and fiberglass exterior.

rek
06-08-2015, 11:06 AM
Upgraded the rear sack on my x9 (209) to a 750lb (w707) and got the boat out yesterday. Took pictures at 10.5 mph on the perfect pass to see the difference at surf speeds. The first picture is no ballast, second, 750lbs rear filled, 3rd is 750lbs moved to starboard walk-way. The center ski locker was not filled. Not a great day to take pictures as the water was pretty rough but you get the idea. Improvement suggestions? I plan on surfing starboard side and jump that side best on a wakeboard too.

Theomedic
06-08-2015, 01:54 PM
Let me know how well it turns out for you, as I plan on surfing my 209 the same way. I'm thinking about making a surf gate, not sure when I'll find the time though....

rek
06-08-2015, 02:05 PM
Let me know how well it turns out for you, as I plan on surfing my 209 the same way. I'm thinking about making a surf gate, not sure when I'll find the time though....

I've researched surf gates but haven't seen anyone implement one on the 209 hull. Would be super interested if anyone has done so or plan on doing so. thx!

h2oski89
06-08-2015, 05:32 PM
I'm planning to build one in a few weeks for my 2006 X9 I have an 1100 ronix bag that I ran up alongside the engine in addition to the stock ballast and it did alright but I really don't like putting all of that weight against the engine hatch. I'm hoping my homemade surf gate will do the trick and I can put 1100 across the back and the 350 in the ski locker. I wouldn't be upset if someone beats me to it and shares their design on the X9/209...

Theomedic
06-09-2015, 11:44 AM
My wife won't let me put a ballast bag in any walkways, only under the rear seat. Did you notice any improvement upgrading to the 707 bag?
If I have some free time Thursday I'll try to make a rough draft surf gate and try it this weekend...

moosehead
06-09-2015, 11:49 AM
^Will she lay down in the walkway with a few friends?

Barefooter92
06-09-2015, 11:56 AM
Great boat! Love the 'naked' look very clean. I would miss the leg room as a driver...
I see you replaced your shaft packing. Where did you get the gortex? Is that a two piece replacement so you don't have to drop the shaft?

rek
06-09-2015, 12:25 PM
My wife won't let me put a ballast bag in any walkways, only under the rear seat. Did you notice any improvement upgrading to the 707 bag?
If I have some free time Thursday I'll try to make a rough draft surf gate and try it this weekend...

Yea big difference over the stock bag. Although i still can't throw the rope when surfing. I only have a 5ft kiddy board and weight 190lbs. So, i'm hoping a surf gate, more ballast, a better board, and losing 20lbs will solve all of life's problems lol. :D

rek
06-09-2015, 12:51 PM
Great boat! Love the 'naked' look very clean. I would miss the leg room as a driver...
I see you replaced your shaft packing. Where did you get the gortex? Is that a two piece replacement so you don't have to drop the shaft?

Thank you. The leg room isn't as bad as the pic looks. So far so good. Yes i used the GFO packing from http://gfopacking.com/ Works very well. No shaft drop just unpack then pack then adjust drip rate.

KyleNowad
01-29-2016, 11:45 PM
Upgraded the rear sack on my x9 (209) to a 750lb (w707) and got the boat out yesterday. Took pictures at 10.5 mph on the perfect pass to see the difference at surf speeds. The first picture is no ballast, second, 750lbs rear filled, 3rd is 750lbs moved to starboard walk-way. The center ski locker was not filled. Not a great day to take pictures as the water was pretty rough but you get the idea. Improvement suggestions? I plan on surfing starboard side and jump that side best on a wakeboard too.

Did the 707 bag just hook up to the factory ballast system?

Prostarski190
01-31-2016, 01:03 AM
Second year in the "new to me" Mastercraft X9. More work completed and figured I'd share some info along with pics! :D

Trailer - So as many of you know Reliable no longer make parts for their trailers. Or at least my 2003 PS209 trailer. Found the master cylinder bone dry this spring (cracked) and the shock is wore out. (clunk clunk) No way to replace these parts (found some close but no cigar) so I bit the bullet and bought the reliable to UFP brake actuator (WAY-47564k43).
Pretty easy install as it is a bolt on. Hooked up brake line and bled the brakes.

However, i found that one of my brake calipers was seized up after a test drive. The wheel was very hot to the touch and the disc brake was extremely hot. Thought it was a bearing but nope it was the caliper. Kodiak makes bolt on replacements for the reliable calipers but for another $200 i bought the UFP brake kit which includes new routers, calipers, brake pads, and bearing buddy which uses grease packing instead of the oil bath. My oil bath caps were starting to crack and the allen screws were stripped when replacing the gear oil. Also, they are press fit which is a huge pain to remove and reliable no longer makes the press fit anymore just the threaded which came on later trailer models. So, everything gets replaced with UFP from the coupler all the way back to the brakes. Only the brake lines themselves remain.


I'm interested in more information about this conversion. What exact parts with numbers and where you purchased. Also would like a step by step write up, if and when you can find the time. My most immediate concern is the process and parts of converting the oil bath hubs to grease with bearing buddies. Thanks

rek
03-16-2016, 06:10 PM
Did the 707 bag just hook up to the factory ballast system?

Here's what i ordered off wakemakers.com:

Stainless Steel Hose Clamp
Size 3/4"
6 31003-340
$0.99
$5.94
Ballast Hose - Black
Size 3/4"
20 31001-340
$0.99
$19.80
Flow Rite 3/4" Elbow Quick Release Connector W742
3 33042
$3.99
$11.97
Fly High Pro X Series Fat Sac (750 lbs)
Color Black
1 11007-blk
$164.99
$164.99
Fly High 3/4" Flow Rite Quick Release Connect W736
3 33036
$4.99
$14.97
Flow Rite 3/4" Quick Release / 3/4" Hose Barb
3 32010
$5.99
$17.97

rek
03-16-2016, 06:28 PM
I'm interested in more information about this conversion. What exact parts with numbers and where you purchased. Also would like a step by step write up, if and when you can find the time. My most immediate concern is the process and parts of converting the oil bath hubs to grease with bearing buddies. Thanks

Sorry for the very late reply. When i winterize the boat and get it laid up, i forgot i have a boat and don't think about this thread. :D

I had my local trailer dealer order all the parts for me. So, they called the MFG and ordered a rotor kit and matching brake kit. I'd say the job is intermediate to advanced if you haven't done this sort of thing before which includes me. If the trailer shop wasn't booked up, I would have had them do it. However, I did complete the job myself but really wish i just paid the $200-$300 for the pros to do it. I'm so meticulous it's done right but took forever. I ran into all kinds of small problems and did the work outside in the gravel. PITA.

Here's some pics in no particular order. A buddy that knows more than me helped me inspect the job once complete and helped me bleed the brakes. No problems at all with the new setup and the brakes do seem stronger than the older reliable parts. Overall, I think its a moderate improvement and am happy about getting parts from UFP in the future if the need arises.

rek
03-16-2016, 06:38 PM
The pics are a bit confusing sorry. The 3rd pic above and 8th are the old setup. All other pics are the new setup.

Bubbacuse77
03-16-2016, 11:06 PM
Nice work rek! I reworked my trailer as well, I was lucky enough to start with UFP parts. I did replace the master cylinder as well however because TPO let it run dry and it was a rusty mess. I stayed with the oil bath hubs because mine are not leaking and I bought new rear seals I case they start.

rek
02-12-2017, 06:43 PM
Think one of the problems, potentially, in laying it up for winter, having the brake calipers locked up against the disc brake over winter when backing it into the parking spot. Just a theory, but last year the brakes were froze against the disc in the spring. Perhaps, just pulling forward in the parking spot would have re leaved the brakes and avoided the freeze in the spring.

rek
05-12-2017, 09:02 AM
Still under 300 hours but decided it was time to do a fuel filter change before the season begins. While i was in there, replaced the fuel pump, fuel line between the pump and fuel regulator, and the o-ring which sits between the gas tank and the filter assembly.

Impressions: Getting everything pulled out and apart was pretty easy. You absolutely want to disconnect the battery before starting the job and double check it. I never disconnected the fuel lines going into the regulator. Disconnecting the black tube (guess thats a vent) and harnesses allows you room to work. The tank was half full but wasn't a problem pulling out the assembly and letting it drain a good 30min.

The filter was easy to remove and put the new one on. The fuel filter was a bit more challenging to pull out and put back in. The + and - wires have clips you must push in to remove the wires to the pump. The - didn't want to snap back on tight when replacing the pump so i had to get some needle nose pliers to crimp it on tight. Make sure you remove the grommet on the bottom of the fuel filter before installing it. ;)

The fitting coming from the fuel regulator on top is is slightly smaller (1/4") than the fitting on the pump (5/16") so it makes re-using the factory line difficult at best. Not feeling warm fuzzies about the line that came with the pump, i bought a $20 12" submersible fuel line for this application and cut it down to 8" and attached with hose clamps. On the 1/4" side i used a piece of the old fuel line to add a little width over the nipple so the 5/16" line fit on snug.

Putting everything back together, you must sandwich the pump between the top/bottom of the assembly and clip everything back together making sure the spring is seated properly. This was the hardest part for me. Needed 3 hands.

Seems like such an overly complicated design having all these pieces inside the fuel tank. Never had a problem but wouldn't be surprised if i did with all these moving parts.

Anyway, I attached some pics along with my thoughts on this job. I know there's several other posts in this forum about this topic, but thought the pics and/or description of the job might help someone out. cheers!

rek
05-12-2017, 09:06 AM
few more pics:

Also, in finishing up the job my torque wrench wasn't working properly to tighten the assembly to the top of the tank using a HEX bit and a wrench. So, i hand tightened in a star pattern then went back around and tighten snug with my hand. Then took a standard wrench and went around again 1/4 turn or until the rubber washer started to push down tight. I think this method worked fine.

rek
07-01-2017, 01:54 PM
New jack (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer_Jack/Fulton/FXP10W0301.html) installed with kit. (https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories_and_Parts/Fulton/F0933325S00.html)

Decided to go with OEM style replacement instead of the mixed reviews of the F2. i never roll it anyway just vertical movements 95% of the time.

Creeklife
08-15-2017, 02:30 PM
This is a great thread.....I just bought a 03 x-9 and my family loves it as well. I would like to tackle most of these projects you've laid out so nicely. First thing I want to address is the fuel pump issue. Where did you order your pump/filter and what was the ID/part#? Also read about the black hose issue on other threads. Where did you get the fuel line replacement?

Thanks again for this thread!!!

rek
08-17-2017, 10:19 AM
This is a great thread.....I just bought a 03 x-9 and my family loves it as well. I would like to tackle most of these projects you've laid out so nicely. First thing I want to address is the fuel pump issue. Where did you order your pump/filter and what was the ID/part#? Also read about the black hose issue on other threads. Where did you get the fuel line replacement?

Thanks again for this thread!!!

Typically, order these types of parts from https://mcpartsdepot.com/ or http://www.skidim.com/ . When i get home tonight, I'll see if i saved the receipt to give you more specifics on those part #s.

Happy to know this thread is helping out other MC owner's and your X9 specifically! Much of the knowledge shared here was picked up at various sources on this forum and feel obligated to give a little something back. ;)

rek
08-17-2017, 10:26 AM
Here's where i got the fuel pump (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EEX6IA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Just the pump didn't use this hose.

rek
08-17-2017, 08:44 PM
got the fuel filter from skidim its the only one this style and the hose i dunno no receipt but it should be linked in another forum.

Creeklife
09-21-2017, 09:10 AM
Thanks again Rek