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zamboniman
04-13-2014, 06:16 PM
My 2008 x2 is factory configured with dual batteries and a blue sea switch that appears to have a charge isolation relay of sorts. Switch is an On or combine not the 1,2,both like the perko. Time for new batteries.

So after reading all the dual battery threads I still don't see a solid answer.

Boat currently has 2 of the same batteries (interstate marine cranking 24mxhd).

Seems I'd be better served to put in a deep cycle on the house battery and a cranking on the start battery. However, considering the circuitry involved the batteries would be paralleled under certain charge situations. From everything you read paralleling dissimilar batteries is the no no. But the dual battery system would imply that it should be OK.

Any thoughts? 2 of the same again? Or mix them up for longer potential stereo time?

I don't do marathon party cove sessions but we may float on occasion. The existing batteries have never let me down except for they are getting soft as they are the originals. It would be nice to have the option of longer stereo option and still safe starting if I'm wired for it..

What says Team Talk?

On a side note "I think" Menards had some pretty stellar pricing on some batteries when I was strolling by. I have to go back and check. They were lower cranking amps than my Interstates but would still probably be sufficient even if they only lasted a couple years at that price.

waterlogged882
04-13-2014, 06:26 PM
..........

jgraham37128
04-13-2014, 06:30 PM
I think you can never go wrong with factory equipment. It will help resale too. Tell the next potential buyer you paid a little extra but you wanted to make sure it went back the way it came from the factory. First two things I look at in a car or a boat, does it have a factory battery? What brand of oil filter? That tells you what kind of care they take of their car or boat. My $0.02

MLA
04-13-2014, 06:54 PM
For the main cranking battery, go with a quality group-24 marine cranking. If you want a little more play time with the engine off, then go with a larger group-29 marine deep-cycle. But, it will require a larger tray/box, but yields about 40% more Ah over the original group-24.

zamboniman
04-13-2014, 06:57 PM
Half of me agrees with the above 2 answers.. and I've always been an interstate fan as my dad sold them at his shop back in the day.

The other half of me knows that most batteries across brands are more similar than not most being made by the same supplier and the major differences were branding and warranty.

Philosophically forgetting about brands so the consensus is to use 2 of the same "type" of batteries considering the wiring/switch setup and not mix starting/deepcycle?

zamboniman
04-13-2014, 07:03 PM
Howbout I ask it like this.

Putting in a new group 24 cranking battery on my starting circuit. If price is more or less the same should I also put the same group 24 cranking battery on the house circuit or go with a group 24 deep cycle?

I'm not going after crazy jam sessions and not changing battery boxes.. just trying to figure if price is = would I be better served to add the deep cycle or would it actually be worse overall.

To some degree I'm questioning if the 2 of the same battery arrangement I have is indeed correct and if not now is my time to correct it. Just because it came this way doesn't mean that it's right. It could have been a dealer thing toss whatever is handy in there.

What did other boats with the dual battery setup of this vintage come with? Fundamentally it doesn't seem proper to have a cranking battery on the accessories/audio? But it's sure nice if you need to combine them in an emergency.

zamboniman
04-13-2014, 07:28 PM
I guess it may not matter since the specs of the deep cycle I was looking at are about the same as the interstate cranking. If I were to believe specs.

MLA
04-13-2014, 08:07 PM
It would be nice to have the option of longer stereo option

If you truly want this, and at a value and not breaking the bank, going up to larger battery is the way to go, but it will also require a new $10 battery box. A group-29 interstate is about $25 more than a group-24, yet about 40 Ah more.

If you dont want to make that investment in to more battery Ah, then just go with a standard group-24 deep-cycle.

Oh, and even though the VSR will distribute alternator charge to both banks, they will not actually be wired in parallel, so no worries about having a cranking and deep-cycle battery in the same boat, considering both are actually wet-cell lead acid.

davidstan
04-12-2017, 10:19 AM
Reviving this one with a question. Would a couple of 24's with 1250 CCA be ok here?

Thrall
04-12-2017, 01:08 PM
I think you can never go wrong with factory equipment. It will help resale too. Tell the next potential buyer you paid a little extra but you wanted to make sure it went back the way it came from the factory. First two things I look at in a car or a boat, does it have a factory battery? What brand of oil filter? That tells you what kind of care they take of their car or boat. My $0.02

I'd typically agree except in the case of factory MC battery and stereo amp setup.
I was so impressed with the wiring of the entire boat (06X2) until I looked at the battery and amp!
Looked like my first stereo project when I was 15, lol. Ripped all that sht out of there, got proper amp(s) for what I was powering and put it back right with distribution blocks, fused and un fused as needed. 1 set for starting/running functions, 1 set for "house" functions.
Linked the 2 batteries together with a blue seas ACR and its now what it should have been from the factory. Never have to touch a switch to combine or separate batteries. Both charge when the engine is running and they split as soon as the house draw (stereo) pulls the battery below charging voltage so the stereo can't kill the start battery.
I would either drop in 2 identical batteries and close the lids or redo the setup and make it more efficient and user friendly.

bturner2
04-12-2017, 02:42 PM
^^^^ This ^^^^

Did the same. Was shocked how the house wiring could be so good and the stereo wiring could be done so poorly. The wiring on my stereo was done at the absolute minimum standards that would work. Yanked it all out and started from scratch starting with an add a battery kit from Blue Seas.

CantRepeat
04-12-2017, 03:43 PM
I'd typically agree except in the case of factory MC battery and stereo amp setup.
I was so impressed with the wiring of the entire boat (06X2) until I looked at the battery and amp!
Looked like my first stereo project when I was 15, lol. Ripped all that sht out of there, got proper amp(s) for what I was powering and put it back right with distribution blocks, fused and un fused as needed. 1 set for starting/running functions, 1 set for "house" functions.
Linked the 2 batteries together with a blue seas ACR and its now what it should have been from the factory. Never have to touch a switch to combine or separate batteries. Both charge when the engine is running and they split as soon as the house draw (stereo) pulls the battery below charging voltage so the stereo can't kill the start battery.
I would either drop in 2 identical batteries and close the lids or redo the setup and make it more efficient and user friendly.

^^^^ This ^^^^

Did the same. Was shocked how the house wiring could be so good and the stereo wiring could be done so poorly. The wiring on my stereo was done at the absolute minimum standards that would work. Yanked it all out and started from scratch starting with an add a battery kit from Blue Seas.

I believe in 08 it was standard to for MC to use the ACR. 07 might have been a mid year swap from an isolator system to ACR.

If he has the off/on/emergency combine switch it should be on an ACR. However, I'm not sure if MC used the blue sea model that we all have come to love. Some photos of his current switch and ACR would help.

Here's my thread on the switch over so you can use it to check against what you currently have.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/showthread.php?t=61783