View Full Version : Installing a Slalom Course

east tx skier
07-20-2004, 05:25 PM
We're talking about putting in a slalom course in front of my father-in-law's place. Anybody done this. There's a great article on aquaskier.com about installing courses, but I wanted to hear some of your thoughts on the subject. We've only got about 4.5' of water so it will probably have to be a drop-in course.

07-20-2004, 05:36 PM
Doug I cant offer any first hand info on the slalom course but when you say “in front of my father-in-law's place”, does that mean he has a place on the water. How cool would that be to walk out of your door to your course…

east tx skier
07-20-2004, 05:52 PM
Yup, he's got a place on the water on a fantastic ski lake and is planning to build a house out there and live there permenantly. It's about 1 hour 20 minutes drive door to door.

John B
07-20-2004, 07:09 PM
Doug, I have A InstaSlalom course. It takes about 30 min. to put it up.(with three people)and 20 to 30 min to take it down. :rolleyes:
I put it up on Monday and pull on Friday.
If you check that other site you can see what mymc had to say about the accu-sink courses and the InstaSlalom.


07-20-2004, 11:06 PM
If you're installing it in only 4.5 feet,it's gonna be real easy.Mine is in about 10 to 12 feet deep and i built it myself,just more troubles to moves around when you're in more water.
For the boat path,i used 3/4 inch steel pipe,mine are 8 feet wide,with weight welded on each end,about 40 pounds each ends.In only 5 feet you won't need sub bouys,i suggest tying each bouys at the end of each pipes with 1/8 bungee cord.I drilled a 3/8 holes at the end of pipes and secure a peice of plastic tubing of about one foot in it and insert my bungee cord in it so it won't cut against the steel .
Individuals anchors are gonna be the best for your 6 skier's bouys,mine are concrete blocks,but in only 4.5 feet of water,might be risky.Something flat and heavy should do it.I simply measure everything with a pre measured rope with markers on it at the needed distances.
Will post you pictures tomorrow...

east tx skier
07-20-2004, 11:18 PM
Thanks, John. Is there a minimum depth required for the portable courses?

Thanks, Andre. We've just started talking about it. Are you using the pipe as an arm out to the turn bouys? Did you use surveying equipment to keep it straight or is it interconnected like the portable courses you can buy?

John B
07-20-2004, 11:36 PM
The Insta Slaloom course can be used in 5 to 40 feet of water.


east tx skier
07-20-2004, 11:45 PM
That's going to be close on depth. I'm not sure if we've got 5 feet where we're thinking of putting it. Of course, we're not locked on that location, but it's a nice cove, right in front of the house, and it rarely sees any boat traffic other than the occ***ional fishing boat.

07-21-2004, 09:33 AM
How much do you figure it will cost?

07-21-2004, 11:16 AM
All my turn bouys are individually anchored,not connected to anything but with the weight of the concrete block nothing move from an inche.Everything is lined up by eyes but with great care and i beleive my course to be quite accurate.We measured everything carefully and it will be real easy for you in such depth.
The reason i use 8 feet pipe is to be sure that my boat path bouys are always 8 feet apart.
The 1/8 bungee cord is perfect because the bouys will stay tight with ± 6 inches of play in water level.Also the bungee cord will easily give if caught by the fins or prop and you don't want the anchors to move.

east tx skier
07-21-2004, 11:33 AM
Brian, if I were to do the drop in course, I think I can get the materials, bouys, boat guides, poly-rope, shock cords, buckets, sac-crete, etc. for under $200.

Andre, with your pipe, does it sit on the bottom and just have holes in it for the bungee, or what? Also, do you have arms going out to your turn bouys from your boat guides?

07-21-2004, 01:59 PM
will be back in acouples of light years...Going outside to make a "montage" and will TRY to post a decent picture...
Wish me luck! :eek:

07-21-2004, 03:16 PM
First try:
First pix,imagine the 8 feet steel pipe instead of that piece of wood or whatever the real distence for boat guide is (Must be close to that and slightly wider for the gates,i know you'll get those real numbers).I know i told you i used weight welded to the pipe but that's what i was suppossed to do this year.Right now my course is intalled like this in 10 to 12 feet of water.

07-21-2004, 03:33 PM
It worked,I,m really a computer genious...Second pic.
I used concrete block as anchors,It's attached to the pipe with 1/4 inch yellow rope going trough a piece of old garden hose so it won't rub off against something and cut.I used a smaller piece of tubing for the bouys at the end of the pipe.I stop that tubing from moving out of the pipe with wire tie so it won't slip out.In my case there a yellow rope in that blue tubing because i need a sub bouy beeing in 10 feet of water,i don't want to dive each time to reattach a buoy but in your case you could go tie the bungee cord directly at the pipe.
Every knot i do,either with yellow rope or bungee cord is simple and real easy to undo,i simply make the first part of lacing a shoe twice and then i use the best invention ever,a wire tie to keep both ends together,never lost anything because a knot let go in six years.

07-21-2004, 03:37 PM
third picture

east tx skier
07-21-2004, 03:43 PM
Cool. I'm starting to see how you're keeping it straight. So, you've basically got pipe going between each of the boat guides, and out to the turn bouy, as well as along the path from one set of boat guides to the other, i.e., the length of the course. If so, that's a lot of pipe. Or do I remember that you used rope to line up the boat guides for the length of the course.

07-21-2004, 03:46 PM
This is my sub buoy,it's a .50 cents one foot long pool noodle piece.
I measure my yellow rope to get that thing floating 3 feet under water line.I put a stopper to keep it from floating to the surface.My bungee cord,1/8",no bigger ,you want it to give,is tie directly to the loop i have made in the yellow rope.I adjust the height of the buoy by the bungee cord at the buoy itself.

east tx skier
07-21-2004, 03:59 PM
That's genius on the sub-bouy. You just saved me some cash if I end up deciding to use a sub just to make pulling the bouys easier.

07-21-2004, 04:06 PM
No piping on the lenght of the course or to the turn buoy.
I just drop my entry gates,adjust the height of the buoy and then measure the boat gate # 1 , 88 and something feet,drop # 1 boat gate,adjust and then 134 and something feet to # 2 boat gate...Remember,i do that from an old johnboat,2 peoples with me dropping anchors and me in the water with my scuba gear for at least 3 hours.
But in your case you could almost walk to the spot with anchors in your arms.
Turn buoys are all same installation with the sub buoy and all,i just measure everything very carefully.I have a yellow rope(Many uses)That is marked with all the dimensions i need to install the course.Of course it's not laser aligned but is quite decent.My course stay in the water all season long,so it's only a one time a season installation for me.I,m sure you could improve on what i did and customize it to your convenience.
Have fun building and skiing it! :)

07-21-2004, 04:11 PM
When i pull it out of water,i can pull directly on the bungee cord,strong enough to get to the yellow rope and then getting the anchors in the boat.

east tx skier
07-21-2004, 05:40 PM
So addictive. It took a while for it to take with me, but I'm at the point where I know if I can get access to one where nobody but my usuals are observing, I can improve.

07-21-2004, 06:11 PM
Skiing the course is the only way to see if you're improving or just kicking some waterwalls...

east tx skier
07-21-2004, 06:34 PM
The most noticeable thing about the course is that there is not more coasting, waiting to turn. Pull out, turn in, hold edge, turn, repeat 5x

07-22-2004, 11:17 PM
Doug, a course in front of the in-laws, would have to put Cypress Bayou on top of the list for the reunion. :woohoo:

east tx skier
07-23-2004, 11:23 AM
Like I said, I'm in (if I can find a weekend).

The course, which is a mere bubble in my beer, twinkle in my eye kind of thing right now, would be in a cove on the big lake. Too much traffic on the bayou to leave the course out there.

First things first, must kill lilly pads in cove.

Anybody try "Reward"?

07-27-2004, 10:35 AM
Thx for the noodle idea... I'll try it this weekend. I've been using either styrophome balls, or capped PVC pipe zippy-tied to my cables (I use 1/8" vinyl coated cable for my sub-bouys).

I installed a port-a-slalom in 6-8' of water before & it wasn't fun. If there is anything on the bottom (stumps, engine blocks, etc) it'll get hung up.

I have 1 anchor per bouy. I feel it is the best solution for my water. :twocents:

east tx skier
07-27-2004, 11:24 AM
Jimmer, did you measure your permenant course similarly to how Andre did his, i.e., with pre-measured lengths of rope? Did you use any pipe to make sure it was straight? I'll probably be doing a drop-in as opposed to a portable course due to water depth.

07-27-2004, 02:00 PM
I do all my measurements via pre-measured rope (I have several for different apps).

1) I have 1 rope which is as long as the entire course. It is actually several feet longer than the course (about 20' on each end). We have an engine block at the 1 end, and 2 anchors (18"x18" chimney blocks filled with concrete) tied together at the other. The rope is hooked firmly between the 2 to keep it straight. The rope has a knot where each row of bouys goes.

2) I also have a rope which is the length of the diaganol between the drive bouy & the turn ball. It is for the DIAGANOL, so it is from the drive ball that closest to the turn ball, but is NOT in the same row (ie - previous or next).

3) Then there is the rope for getting the distance from the closest drive ball to the turn bouy. This rope is for the drive bouy in the same row as the turn bouy. Using ropes 2 & 3 at the same time, this is how you position the turn balls accurately.

All of the above ropes were for installing the course originally & for occasional "fix up". Also - when setting everything up, be sure you're working at the anchor level, not the bouy level. If the current is equal throughout your course, if the anchors are accurate, so will the bouys (at least for us non-world record skiers).

4) For finding the sub-bouys on cloudy water days I have a rope with several knots in it. Each knot has a different color electrical tape on it documenting what it's used for. This rope is drug behind the boat while searching for the sub-bouys or anchors in the spring (we take our sub's out each fall). I have a couple of the pool style floats at each knot. When the float passes the previous ball, the ski pilon should be above the ball you're looking for.


1) Gates are 8' apart & drive bouys are only 6' apart.
2) The distance from the gates to the 1st of balls (drive bouys & turn ball 1) is almost half the distance as the distance between ball row 1 & ball row 2.
3) goes along with #2 - the distance from ball row 6 to the gates is the same length as the entrance gates to row #1

I have an autocad release 12 drawing of a slalom course with measurements if anyone is interested.

07-27-2004, 02:03 PM
here's the .dwg file zipped

east tx skier
07-27-2004, 03:31 PM
Thanks, Jimmer. That's extremely helpful. You even managed to answer the questions I was about to ask. Good stuff.

east tx skier
07-27-2004, 03:32 PM
Well, almost all of my questions. What program is best for looking at the autocad?

07-27-2004, 06:48 PM
unfortunately - autocad.

But - doing a quick search came up with:


You can't print... but, there is a way around that also.

Open the .dwg using the above program. Maximize the window to the full-screen.

Press: <ctrl><Print Screen>

Then open up a picture editor... (MS Photo Editor)
Select "Edit" from the menu
Select "Paste as a new image"

then you can print, etc....

hang on a minute & I'll just post it as a .jpg

07-27-2004, 06:54 PM
here's the .jpg

I had to shrink it 10% for the forum to allow it. If you do the above method, you'll get slightly better quality.

07-27-2004, 07:05 PM
Forgot to mention - the chart shows ball number (corresponds to labeled ball on drawing) and the length of the sub-bouy for that ball. We use 3' less than water level. So for a 6'6" water height - a sub bouy of 3'6".

I recommend using a similiar diagram if you go with the 1 anchor per ball approach.

hope this helps...

07-27-2004, 07:09 PM
Instead of bunjee cords - we use 1" wide slices of tractor trailer inner-tubes. They seem to last very long & are dirt cheap (free). They will also usually break before the anchor gets moved if the ball is ran into by the boat. I'd rather pop a ball off than move an anchor.

another :twocents: for ya

east tx skier
07-28-2004, 03:24 PM
Awesome, Jimmer. Thanks for the info!

east tx skier
09-01-2004, 04:27 PM
Well, I finally bought my buoys, and may get to borrow a portable course to make it easier to get everything lined up, although due to water depth, I'm still looking at a drop in course.

Does anyone know of a better way to individually anchor the buoys than cement blocks. I was thinking that some sort of auger-looking eye screw or screw anchor would be great. Are there any inexpensive sources for something along these lines? Would it work okay?

09-01-2004, 06:32 PM
Maybe some 1 inch thick steel plates of 1 square foot.I'm planning on replacing the blocks with that next year,i think it's gonna work good.Have a ring weld on it to tie up the buoy.
Other than that,maybe you could find something that would "screw" in the bottom like a wine bottle opener...Only thing i can think of is one of those thing that you screw in your lawn about a foot down and tie your dog to it. :twocents:
You'll be working in a real shallow area,that should be a piece of cake!
Good luck...And if case you forget about it,Keep us posted! :D

09-01-2004, 06:34 PM
having installed many courses including a few record capable, over the years a lot of the answer depends on what kind of wate problems the area has. is it a river with a tendency to flood and debri comes down in which case a cable course would not work well as the debri would catch it each time the water was hig and take out the course. If you are only in 5 ft of water in a normal pool a course where would be easy to install and less of a chance to be torn out. also another problem with a cable course in shallow water is if other types of boats are able to use that area. Boats that have a deep draft can cut a cable or arm if they take off while inside the course. In shallow water I have found it better to use blocks to put in the course of use a cable course and put in on tht bottom of the lake.

To get the correct dimensions for the course you can contact usa water ski AT 800555AWSA for a book on the dimensions and also a book on installing a course or if you know of a ski club in the area you can contact them to find out how they have installed theirs.

good luck


09-02-2004, 09:20 AM
RMC1 - For what it's worth - the diagram I posted here was made up exactly to AWSA's specs.

When contemplating your anchors - remember that a turn-ball can float around 10 lbs of weight (I am approximating each ball at 1 gallon - 1 gallon equals 8.4 lbs of lift). So - you'll want each anchor at 20 lbs so they don't move when a roller goes buy from the boat that's picking up a fallen skier from the shore-side turn-ball. That's why I went with Flu-blocks (not the skinier inside flue ones, but rather the larger ~16"x16"x8" tall) with the center filled with concrete and bent re-bar in the middle for the sub-bouy cables.

Something else to think about. In my case - being in a river, there is constant motion of the sub-bouys. Enough that within 24 months, a 3/8" steel rod will be worn completely through.

09-02-2004, 09:22 AM
If you're going for low-profile anchors, you may be able to use old railroad irons. Many places have old RR tracks laying along the side since it's too expensive to move for recycling. Take a Torch & grab a couple lengths. Then you only have to burn a hole to attach also. Just a thought. The price would be right!

Wish I would have thought of that when I did mine. :uglyhamme

tall_ andy
09-02-2004, 09:34 AM
Just make sure you get the "old" track. I bet the railroad would get pretty upset if you started taking track they haven't put in yet!

09-02-2004, 10:23 AM
Figured that went without saying... :uglyhamme

east tx skier
09-02-2004, 12:23 PM
Went to home depot yesterday and looked for some alternatives. They have 16" plastic spikes, but the consensus is that the bottom is too muddy for them to hold. So blocks it is. Good advice on the weight. We're in a bay off a lake that is, other than the ocassional fisherman, pretty much uninhabited. So current isn't much of an issue. Water is around 5 feet, so we're not leaving the portable course down, but rather, using it to measure. We'll somehow mark the buoy locations, then pull it up, then set the anchors. My concern is that the blocks, if placed properly, would impede the removal of the portable course.

Our next hurdle is lilly pads. Lots of them. I've heard good things about "Reward" for getting rid of them. Anyone have any suggestions?

tall_ andy
09-02-2004, 12:56 PM
I am sure you've seen this but just in case you missed it on ski it again


The guy is asking $500.

Might be worth taking a look at!
I wish I could use it, but the river I ski on (delaware) would most likely flood too high, and bye bye $500

Good luck and post pics when its finally done

east tx skier
09-02-2004, 01:02 PM
I saw it, and that's a pretty good price. There's one on ebay, too. But in less than 5 feet of water, my setup is probably too shallow for a portable course (although it appears they're making a shallow water portable course now, too. Plus, It sounds easier to me to just remove the balls rather than all the substructure when we're not using it. It's going to be set up pretty close to our dock. My cousin has his in storage about 1 hour's drive from here. I'll probably just use that to measure and be done with it. Thanks for the link, though.

09-05-2004, 02:22 PM
I have a course (EZ SL) that I built last year and have it installed in 4.5 to 6 feet of water. It works great, I used PVC pipe for the arms and just shortened the buoy ropes a little bit because the water was so shallow.
For Anchors just make a wooden box frame and mix some concrete up and and make a large flat pancake shape with a loop of water hose in the concrete. We run a piece of rope though the hose and attach the course with carabiners from a climbing shop. Once the anchors were dropped we GPS'd them and attach a sub buoy for winter and then re use come spring.
Good Luck the course is additive and all will enjoy, but one word of caution don't forget to free ski once in a while also!! :)

east tx skier
09-07-2004, 11:32 AM
Well, I've got my anchors attached to my subs. Ran 1/4" nylon rope through garden hose. Used cut up swim noodles for subs and have a bit 1/2" pvc pipe to top them off. Secured my knots with zip ties. The bottom of our lake is muddy and very soft, so I'm using cinder blocks for anchors. Picked up 900 ft of poly rope to use as a measuring mainline. Sections of 1" pvc pipe and couplins will be used as arms to measure out to the turn buoys. Once the anchors are set, the mainline and pvc comes up, the buoys get attached, and the fun begins. I've got to remember to GPS these things. But the course will run right in front of my father-in-law's dock, so it won't be too hard to find. Also, the traffic in this cove is minimal, and even then, only fishermen. No ski boats but those owned by us. I'll probably put a buoy out, too, to help me find them again when not in use. Hoping to have my anchors set by next Saturday afternoon. So psyched.

09-07-2004, 11:36 AM
Tim's new toy (Insta-Slalom) was great! Took us about an hour to put out and about 25 minutes to take up!

John B
09-07-2004, 03:53 PM
Your setup time will only get better.
This morning setup time for me was 30 min. :D

09-07-2004, 03:55 PM
Your setup time will only get better.
This morning setup time for me was 30 min. :D

I agree JohnB, if we would have put it in down wind and let the wind push us, instead of us fighting with the wind, it would only take about 30 minutes to setup!

John B
09-07-2004, 04:09 PM
What I did with my course was add a tension ball at each end. that way I can set and pull from whatever end the wind blow from to keep the main line tight.
I also made sure the they are 180 feet for the gates so I now 55 meter balls. :D

09-07-2004, 04:27 PM
Tim does want to add a second tension ball for the wind problems. We had to work to keep the course inline all weekend, but we had alot of boat traffic and had jet skies in and out of the course. Tim chased down two guys on jet skies and stopped another guy that got mad. But we had a permit that made that piece of lake ours!! The rangers said they would take care of any jet skiers that gave us problems :banana: !

John B
09-07-2004, 04:38 PM
I use buckets of concrete for anchors.The square one (cat litter buckets). That way they don't roll when you tension or when the wind blow. I have a permit too,but I'm on a public like and that's makes it a public course. I can not tell people to stay out of it, I can just ask them and I have to be nice to them. :mad:

09-07-2004, 04:41 PM
We don't have a problem with people sking through it, but the Rangers said we could make them stay out of it. Seems a little rough since we only paid $5.00 for a year long permit. And it is right at a Campground!!!
We had guys trying to run it on wakeboards and kneeboards all weekend, that was fun to watch.

John B
09-07-2004, 04:49 PM
If someone want to fish in my course and won't leave I have to let them. :mad:

09-07-2004, 04:52 PM
That sucks, speaking of fishing in the course, Tim and I were pulling up one of the anchors and caught a ladder for a ski boat. It had been on bottom fo awhile, so we practiced catch and release! :D

Jeff N.
09-07-2004, 05:27 PM
If someone want to fish in my course and won't leave I have to let them. :mad:

Go for it! :D


09-07-2004, 05:31 PM
A 19 ft. MC at 36 mph. with a guys fling around the balls at 15 off should make them put that trolling motor up!

09-07-2004, 05:44 PM
A 19 ft. MC at 36 mph. with a guys fling around the balls at 15 off should make them put that trolling motor up!

I have done that a time or two (well not at 36/15 off), but have always had a fear of snagging a fishing line. That hook or lure ripping across your ankle or shim would leave a mark.

09-07-2004, 05:46 PM
Tim played a little game of chicken with a jet skier this weekend. MC= 1, Jet skier= 0!

east tx skier
09-07-2004, 05:47 PM
My thoughts exactly. When we finish our course, they can fish in/near it all they want inasmuch as it's a public lake. But with continuous passes, I don't know if they'll catch much. This weekend can't get here fast enough.

09-07-2004, 05:49 PM
With your new course, you can help Tim and I on it! We will be ready :D !

east tx skier
09-07-2004, 06:00 PM
I'll let you know. I have a feeling this will be the perfect tool on which I will embarass myself for years to come.

John B
09-07-2004, 06:07 PM
You only get embarrass the first few times then you get used to eating crow.
Or you just get other skier that are worst then you. :D

east tx skier
09-07-2004, 06:32 PM
Yeah, pretty much past the point of true embarassment. Now I'm just entertainment for those in the boat.

I need to make a video entitled "Learning not to break at the waist the hard way." I had more than my share of OTF falls in '03.

Farmer Ted
09-07-2004, 07:17 PM
This weekend was great, the course was a great investment.

We got a 130 pound 16 year old off his 70" Obrien and on my girlfriends 65" HO and after a few passes through the course at 29 he was making 4 to 5 balls each pass.

Slowed him down to 26 and he got 6 and the back gate.
New Pro(zac)Tour Record!!!!!

I gave up on zero off and went to 15 off. Made the front gates and 2 balls but not sure of the speed but it was probably 18 or 19.

Brad was cranking out 3 @ 0 off at 28MPH, I think going through the front gates helps accelerate to the 1 ball instead of just hanging out and coasting through it.

We had a hard time getting good water, didn't expect too much but everytime we untied the boat the dip$hits came out of the woodwork.

Definately a blast!

09-07-2004, 08:41 PM
Often when you think is't gonna be calm for a moment and you prepare for the course,somebody is gonna come by make some nice waves for you to ski in... :mad:

Good to see that the Rangers told you that you can move them out of the course at least.
Congrats for the Insta course?How much for it?

Bonne Soirée! :)

09-08-2004, 12:27 AM
Get some pictures of your course and post on the Ahh Bouys thread, it is a temple to the course!! LOL :)

09-08-2004, 08:22 AM
When we have the occasional fisherman enter our course, we politely (yes - politely) pull up & tell them that they can stay if they want, but we'll be skiing this 1/8th of a mile (and only this 1/8th of a mile) over & over & over again, so the fishing probably won't be any good. If they don't leave right away, it only takes 2-3 passes until they do.

We did have 1 guy who didn't move. Good thing about being able to throw a wall of water 10' high but only 10' from the cut is you sure can scare the [email protected] out of them without actually getting them wet (or - drenched, that is)..... :D

east tx skier
09-08-2004, 11:19 AM
We had a hard time getting good water, didn't expect too much but everytime we untied the boat the dip$hits came out of the woodwork.

Ain't it the truth. :o

Glad you guys are having fun with it.

Robert Averyt
09-10-2004, 04:16 PM
Hey Doug good luck this weekend with the course. One thing I would suggest is to keep a really sharp knife with you when you are doing any under water work putting in a course. My wife had a friend when she was in high school that was working on a course on Sam Rayburn that got tangled in some fishing line and never came up.

Good luck and let us know Monday how it all came out.

09-13-2004, 07:10 AM

Good point on the knife. Now I need to go get a diving knife! I spend quite a bit of time under water (either working on the course, or just general swimming).

east tx skier
09-13-2004, 04:03 PM
It's in. Had a bend in it at first, but we got it straightened out. Measures accurately to fractions of an inch. When I ran the boat through it, I could tell we got it right with our corrections. The bottom is really soft and, as a result, those anchors aren't going anywhere. Finished last night at 7:30 PM. It was too dark to take a picture and we still had to pull the buoys. Should be back down in 2 weeks. Anticipate setup time at about 15-20 minutes. At that point, I'll begin letting those little orange fellas have their way with me.

09-14-2004, 07:16 AM
Congrats.... I'm moving down to your house by the weekend (before Ivan gets here)... I'll bring Beer & Gas. Anything else?:woohoo:

east tx skier
09-14-2004, 11:49 AM
Sure, more beer. Come on.

09-14-2004, 01:47 PM
We can all bring some beer! Farmer Ted is ready I know, I've been to busy at work and sick for any sking, as his boat is still not ready!

east tx skier
09-14-2004, 03:26 PM
I'm trying to figure out when I can get back down there. It's really not primed for skiing what with all the lilly pads on the north end. I'd love to offer up the place for a weekend retreat, but unfortunately, it's not mine to offer, and I don't want to impose on my father in law. But if you guys are up for a day trip at some point, we could probably work that.

Of course, there's still the course on my home lake. This one's just a bit further down the road for you guys (about an hour and a half. It's always open (you have to have the combination to remove the barrels - takes about 5 minutes) and I'd be more than happy to meet you guys out there some time.

04-09-2005, 12:19 AM
We're talking about putting in a slalom course in front of my father-in-law's place. Anybody done this. There's a great article on aquaskier.com about installing courses, but I wanted to hear some of your thoughts on the subject. We've only got about 4.5' of water so it will probably have to be a drop-in course.Hey

Am I late with this?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=23808&item=7148293935&rd=1

04-10-2005, 11:44 PM
I cut 5 gallon buckets about 6-8 inches tall then fill with concrete mix. The cheap stuff from Home Depot. Buckets, I find them along the interstate. My wife thinks I'm crazy when I go there's a bucket and stop to get it. I put a stainless eye bolt in the mix and let it set up.
Some scuba dive shops can make lead anchors too, shape is up to your imagination.
I've got a plastic storage box from Big Lots that I plan on making a square concrete anchor out of for a tie off when sitting and watching the other slalom skiers run the course.

04-11-2005, 12:46 AM
Let us know how the boat anchor/tie off works!

east tx skier
04-11-2005, 11:14 AM
Mark, I hadn't seen that. There's a portable course on skifly.com's skibay for $250 (including buoys). New boat guides and turn balls will run you well over $100 (plus latex tubing to attach them). By the way, on ebay, you can get enough surgical latex tubing to do the whole course for $10 (as opposed to $40 from a retailer).

04-12-2005, 07:03 AM
Mark, I hadn't seen that. There's a portable course on skifly.com's skibay for $250 (including buoys). New boat guides and turn balls will run you well over $100 (plus latex tubing to attach them). By the way, on ebay, you can get enough surgical latex tubing to do the whole course for $10 (as opposed to $40 from a retailer).

I have found that old tractor-trailer inner-tubes work much better than surgical tubing. And - it's usually easier to come by. Just cut it in 1" wide strips It streatches as much, or more and lasts 3x longer. Also - it's FREE.