Go Back   TeamTalk > General MasterCraft Topics > General Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 06-01-2006, 10:27 AM
mitch's Avatar
mitch mitch is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 2000 PS205/1999 Manitou 24' party barge
Location: NH
Posts: 2,018
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac
Interesting, thanks for the info. I do a lot of TIG welding on mild steel, but I can't weld aluminum worth a sh** with it. I understand the theory, but my attempts have been pretty funny. I only know enough to be certain that that crack is going to be a tough one to fix well, and that New Dimensions should step up.
My father-in-law said the same thing. He's a pretty good welder, but mixed results on alum. Sometime it's comes out perfects, other times it's a mess. If I can get the part for a reasonable $, I'm just gonna replace it. I should know today/tomorrow.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 06-01-2006, 11:01 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
MC Platinum
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2004 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 8,121
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalanic
Yes welding aluminum using GTAW (TIG) is like trying to control a puddle of water, not very fun. GMAW (MIG) gives you the wire control with variable speed & alot less heat. To weld aluminum successfully with GTAW you must use pure Tungsten & have the machine in AC. You should also be using a larger diameter Tungsten while in AC because of the higher heat required, around 1/16" or 1/8".
Well, my most recent attempt was to weld some 1/4 inch aluminum with a 1/8 inch rod at 180 amps ( max my welder will do ). I was using tungsten and AC. I can tell you that 180 amps won't work, but the first time I struck an arc, the violence of it scared me . I finally took it over to a pro (I think he said he used 260 amps). It took 10 minutes and cost me $15, which made me wonder why I even bothered to try to weld it myself...
__________________
'04 MariStar 230VRS/MCX
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 06-01-2006, 11:20 AM
kalanic's Avatar
kalanic kalanic is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Boat: X-10 2004 350MCX
Location: NorCal, Vacaville
Posts: 705
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac
Well, my most recent attempt was to weld some 1/4 inch aluminum with a 1/8 inch rod at 180 amps ( max my welder will do ). I was using tungsten and AC. I can tell you that 180 amps won't work, but the first time I struck an arc, the violence of it scared me . I finally took it over to a pro (I think he said he used 260 amps). It took 10 minutes and cost me $15, which made me wonder why I even bothered to try to weld it myself...
Yes you would need at least 200amps to weld aluminum. Still laughing about the "Violence". I know exactly what your talkin about!
__________________
2004 X-10 MCX & 1 Bad *** Sound System!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 06-01-2006, 02:36 PM
mitch's Avatar
mitch mitch is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 2000 PS205/1999 Manitou 24' party barge
Location: NH
Posts: 2,018
Spoke to customer service at New Demension Towers. They were in a word.....useless. Just wanted to buy the part.

Looks like any solution will have to come from MC. I'll keep you posted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitch
Thanks for the feedback guys! The crack runs right along the heat line from the orig weld. Father-in-law, who's a mechanic and welds a lot, said manf defect all the way, too much heat. Looking ahead to a weld failing, I sent a note to my fav MC dealer (pssst in NC) asking how much to replace the driver's side base, and I will email ND, good idea. I doubt water got in there, as it was tented good for the winter. I even covered the only small hole in the base w/ a coozie, as to not rip the tarp. Every time I checked the boat, it was bone dry. That being said, I can not understand how I missed it in the fall, when I took the tower off. Hmmm, maybe
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 06-01-2006, 03:21 PM
jraben8 jraben8 is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Boat: 99 OB SportStar
Location: North DFW
Posts: 1,031
Send a message via AIM to jraben8 Send a message via MSN to jraben8
That's just sorry. Hopefully that great NC dealer can help you out.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 06-01-2006, 04:16 PM
DrNautica's Avatar
DrNautica DrNautica is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: Currently have Four
Location: Lake Cumberland, KY
Posts: 264
There looks to be considerable metal fatigue surrounding that crack. I vote that the base leg of the tower needs replacing.

Let us know what Wayne at ND has to say.

Dr. N
__________________
www.WaterMakerMan.com
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 06-01-2006, 04:20 PM
DrNautica's Avatar
DrNautica DrNautica is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: Currently have Four
Location: Lake Cumberland, KY
Posts: 264
Also, that is a poor area for a weld which is to be stressed. That weld is made at the apex of a bend. The material on the upper side of the bend will be stretched, and therefore, thinner at that point. The material thickness at the crack looks suspiciously thin to me. I've drilled a few holes in my ND tower and I can tell you that it is easily twice that thick (at least if your photo shows it right.)
Attached Images
 
__________________
www.WaterMakerMan.com
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 06-01-2006, 04:34 PM
Diesel's Avatar
Diesel Diesel is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 95 Prostar 205
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 1,597
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNautica
Also, that is a poor area for a weld which is to be stressed. That weld is made at the apex of a bend. The material on the upper side of the bend will be stretched, and therefore, thinner at that point. The material thickness at the crack looks suspiciously thin to me. I've drilled a few holes in my ND tower and I can tell you that it is easily twice that thick (at least if your photo shows it right.)
I agree it is a poor design and was most likely not analyzed by an engineer. The combination of a major stress riser (bend apex) with a saddle welded structural support is just not a good idea. Now factor in the metal properties of the T6061 (I assume), the load, and the constant flexing of the "zero flex" you get the failure shown.

I too would replace the entire lower structure if possible. Proper welding will only buy you time as the tube will most likely crack again somwhere near the repair weld.
__________________
05 ProStar 209, Navy Flake, Slate Gray, MCX 1:1
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 06-01-2006, 04:48 PM
M-Funf's Avatar
M-Funf M-Funf is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Boat: 1976 Mastercraft Stars & Stripes 351W
Location: Petaluma, CA
Posts: 3,096
I agree with all the statements above. The design is poor, the material looks too think at the crack, etc.

What about cutting in three places and replacing the whole joint with a new material? Cut above the joint weld, and beyond the butt weld on the right, and far enough past the bend on the left. Fab a new section and have it welded in.

It's probably a LOT more work than patching or filling, but would probably be stronger in the long run.

What does the mfg. say? Will they help pay for the repair?
__________________
M-Funf (a.k.a. Jeff)

Our '76 Stars & Stripes

Canis meus id comedit
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 06-01-2006, 08:31 PM
mitch's Avatar
mitch mitch is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 2000 PS205/1999 Manitou 24' party barge
Location: NH
Posts: 2,018
Thanks again for the replies. ND said call MC, can't help ya bruther. I mentioned nothing about warrenty or 'free', all I asked was "how much for the part?" Zero help, and you will see no further ND plugs from me, I'll tell ya. I've been an advocate in the past due to the OEM look but no more. Not because of the failure of the part, as that stuff happens, but very poor customer support. That zipperhead lady could not wait to get me off the phone, and I'll remember that....for a long time. Back to the subj. Yes, I does looks thin at that crack, but feels strong overall, and I didn't ND build the orig for MC? I thought they did and can't understand how another could be thicker, unless they changed the design. Anyhoo, I removed that part from the boat, and will see a local welder in the AM. He knew exactly what a wakeboard tower was so that's a good start,. Have not heard back from MC, via dealer, so no choice right now but get her welded, and get on the water. Who's taking bets on how much MC wants for that part? I bet they want 400 bucks. Father-in-law helped me pull it off, was not impressed with the quality at all, and busted my balls some on the 'MC is best thing' He thinks after MC looks at the pics, I'll get a free one from them. Oh well, I'll follow up tomorrow, thanks again guys, appreciate the time you took to post!!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:19 PM.