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Old 06-03-2018, 12:10 AM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Boat: 1982 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes 351
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Exclamation Transmission fluid in bilge area - 1982 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes

Hi,
I'm new to the forum. I picked up a 1982 S&S in the fall and it ran great. Only 215 hours. As I was getting it ready for the summer (new plugs, wires, impeller, bilge pump, oil, etc), there was a lot of red fluid in the bilge area and the transmission fluid is very low. I'm sure it is transmission fluid that has leaked. The transmission fluid is low on the dipstick, but is definitely red. I am guessing a gasket is bad but am not sure. Any ideas are welcome and appreciated. I want to launch this baby soon!
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2018, 12:13 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Trans seals... many threads here.. if u can turn a wrench... or ship it off.

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  #3  
Old 06-03-2018, 10:29 PM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Boat: 1982 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes 351
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Thanks. I'll keep you posted as I look further into it!
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Old 06-03-2018, 10:58 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by augtober154 View Post
Thanks. I'll keep you posted as I look further into it!
Assuming you have the 1:1 Velvet Drive transmission:

An easy fix but you need to be prepared to jump through a few hoops.

Disconnect the flanges at the shaft.

Remove only the lag bolts at the rear engine mounts (leave the entire engine mount assembly in tact, i.e. the vertical adjusting nut, lock nut, etc.).

Remove the exhaust hoses from the risers (leave attached to the mufflers), the raw water intake hose, and unplug the wiring harness at the engine.

Use two bottle jacks (under the risers) (or similar) to raise the rear of the engine so that it rotates on the front engine mount horizontal trunions. You only need to lift the rear of the engine enough to get a straight shot at the transmission seal.

Remove the rear plate on the transmission.

Use a pick (or drywall screws) to remove the old seal.

Put in a new seal using care and caution to keep it in top condition upon reassembly.

You can procure parts at ebasic marine (dot com) or Discount Inboard Marine. You'll need a new gasket for the plate.

While the engine is lifted, clean the hull (much easier and more room).

You'll need about 1.5 quarts of new Dex III (or similar) fluid. Forget the synthetic trick. The Velvet Drive runs better with non-syn fluid.

Lower the engine back into place. Attach your hoses etc. One thing I will suggest is attaching the exhaust hoses onto the risers as you set the engine back into place VS. waiting until the engine is screwed down. Much easier to attach the hoses before you re-set the engine. While you're there inspect the internal condition of your exhaust hoses, but my recommendation is to replace them with new, regardless of their condition if they are OEM. No better time than now.

Reconnect the couplings. Keep them within 0.003" for fit. They should be spot on from where you took them apart by virtue of removing the lags and leaving the engine mounts unscathed.

An easy job if you plan it out and are prepared to do it.

So now the caveat; when you go to (re)-secure the rear engine mounts with the same OEM lazy-man's lag screws...they may not tighten like one would expect with a good bite into the wooden stringers. There is a chance your stringers are bad. You'll know when you get there. If so, there lies another issue of larger proportion. I have been down that road too.
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Last edited by waterlogged882; 06-04-2018 at 05:31 PM.
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  #5  
Old 06-04-2018, 01:54 PM
travis351 travis351 is offline
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Make sure you check the transmission fluid cooler and hydraulic hose connections before digging in this deep.

I tried replacing the rear transmission seal this way a couple of times and could never get the rear nut tight enough, causing the leak to re-surface again and again. I don't remember what the correct torque for that nut is, and no longer have my FSM for the inboard, but it's certainly in the triple digits and since the shaft spins, it is a challenge, even on the work bench.

Good luck!
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:24 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Agree on the double check.

Spec is 150 - 200 ft.-lbs.

Takes an impact wrench to break it loose.
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Old 06-06-2018, 07:32 AM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Thank you so much for the feedback. I really appreciate your time and ideas. I won't be able to get to it again til the weekend, but will post my progress once I get there. This forum is great!
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Old 06-13-2018, 08:23 AM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Boat: 1982 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes 351
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Travis351 - you mentioned to Make sure you check the transmission fluid cooler and hydraulic hose connections before digging in this deep.

Could you possibly explain exactly where these locations are? This is all new to me.

Waterlogged882 - you talked about disconnecting the flanges at the shaft. You also mentioned removing the rear plate on the transmission. Can you tell me exactly what these look like or where they are located? I apologize for the questions; this is in depth than anything I've done on boats.

I also have a new issue. I decided to launch it to try it out (keeping an eye on the tranny fluid level and making sure nothing gets in the lake... bilge pump doesn't work anyway). When I drive it, I can get up to speed ok, but after 15 minutes or so at over 30 mph, it loses power and shuts off. The temperature is fine through all of this. Things I've done so far...

1. Replaced spark plugs and wires
2. Replaced fuel filter
3. Replaced impeller
4. Siphoned out old fuel and put in 10 gallons of new fuel

When I try to restart it, it turns over really slowly like it is really laboring. When it turns slowly, a small amount of smoke comes out of the area above the carb (is that the air filter)? The battery is brand new. The volt meter shows a full charge. After 30 minutes, it starts fine and does the same thing again. I'm frustrated. Can't seem to win these days!
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  #9  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:45 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Are you running the original coil and ballast resistor? Seems heat is affecting ignition.. IMO

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  #10  
Old 06-13-2018, 09:58 AM
augtober154 augtober154 is offline
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Yes, I am. Is that an easy fix? There was a thread from ryangraham from 2007 titled engine stalls at running rpms. My problem seems basically the same, but I couldn't figure out exactly what he did (which hose) he cleaned out in the gas tank.
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