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Old 03-07-2006, 10:34 PM
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ever had this happen to your vehicle brakes?

Wagner Thermo Quiet six months old

poor lighting & pic....I'll get a better pic tomorrow
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:36 PM
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wow! Maybe thermal expation and contraction?
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SKI*MC
wow! Maybe thermal expation and contraction?
dunno, I had a very notable tire shop do all the brakes 6 months ago....
turn rotors....etc...

Went on a trip to Tulsa and almost killed my family by narrowly missing an accident, because the rear drums were not adjusted out properlt creating a lot of extra force on the disks... less that 1 week, had it back to adjust drum's pads out.

Still didn't feel "right"
Went for about a month, the I ran the drum's pad's out myself! felt better

took it into a different shop yesterday because of steering wheel vibration under braking... the mechanic said the rotors needed turned. I said do it.

He said while the rotors were turning, he got bored and checked the pads for glazing and found this!

the thing is, when some of these do a brake instection, they look at the thickness of the pads without pulling the calipers off....had it not been for warped rotors, we wouldn't have found these cracks.
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Old 03-07-2006, 10:51 PM
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Had to read up on them. Those are some brakes.


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/foru...sp?tid=1235692

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Old 03-07-2006, 10:53 PM
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Milk are the cracks bad? I mean is this a bad thing?

Last edited by Leroy; 03-07-2006 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Leroy
Milk are the cracks bad? I mean is this a bad thing?
some of the cracks are completely through the material to the steel plate....

I can't see how that would be a good thing... I'm not happy with them
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Last edited by milkmania; 03-07-2006 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:30 PM
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not that it matters now, but I was suprised last time I needed rotors turned, new rotors were not much more ... if they keep warping that fast I would try new rotors next time ... as for the cracking and the warping, I have never seen pad's crack like that with all the thickness left ... wonder if it is a 'what came first - chicken or egg' thing ... when the rotors got turned the first time was that the first time?
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:35 PM
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here is a good post from leroy's link:

Author Posted 11/21/2005 5:25 PM (#1674736 - in reply to #1674366)

rudeney


RE: Brake Nightmare!

I have used this method and it works very well. This information on this website is all very good and accurate. One thing to remember when changing brakes, if you don’t change the pads and rotors together, then you have some extra work to do. Even high-quality, well-maintained brakes will create wear grooves in the pads and rotors. This is inevitable with today’s semi-metallic pads, and especially true with OEM pads that use a softer graphite-based pad stock.

Basically, if you put new pads on a used rotor, two bad things will happen. First of all, the new pads will have only partial contact with the rotor surface because of the existing grooves. With use, they eventually “break-in” and match, but during that time, you will have a second problem, which is the generation of extra heat. Since the used rotor will have a highly polished surface, this will reflect heat back into the pads. Overheated pads can cause all sorts of problems like breaking down the material used to bond them to the metal backers, and crystallization of the base material used in the pads. Crystallization will cause the pads to be harder, which will cause squealing when they contact the rotors and reduced braking ability.

The best case is to always mate fresh pads to a fresh rotor surface. Replace the rotors and pads will accomplish this, but if you re-use existing rotors, you need to prepare the surface. One way to do this is to have the rotors machined or “turned”. The problem is that most rotors will be near or even beyond minimum thickness spec after running through just one set of pads and they cannot be turned. If they are still within spec, you can just “knock down” the rotors. This is a process where you roughen the surface with sandpaper. The goal is not really to attempt to flatten the surface (as machining would do), but simply to knock down the highest ridges and remove the shine. This will allow the new pads to seat better.

Of course if there are any really deep gouges in the rotors, or if they are warped (as evidenced by vibration during braking), then they should be replaced. Also, if you see any dark spots on the rotors, that is a sign of a bad caliper, in which case all calipers and rotors on the axle must be replaced. It’s also a good idea to replace your brake fluid with every other pad change. Brake fluid that has been heated is less effective. In a worst-case scenario, it can easily cost over $1,000 to DIY, but the best car in the world is no good if you can’t stop it!


********************************
Milk, I bet they didn't turn your rotors good the first time, and I wonder now if there is enought thickness left for heat dissipation.
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Last edited by PendO; 03-07-2006 at 11:37 PM.
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:37 PM
Leroy
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Overall there was a lot of happy people with these brake pads, with a few exceptions when people did half-a$$ repairs.
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Old 03-07-2006, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leroy
Overall there was a lot of happy people with these brake pads, with a few exceptions when people did half-a$$ repairs.
true dat ... and shops like the labor for turning the rotors (helps pay for their machine) rather than sublet for the parts and only getting a small markup IMO.
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