Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Appearance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 02-27-2006, 10:22 PM
6ballsisall's Avatar
6ballsisall 6ballsisall is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: None this week!
Location: Coming out of the 6 Ball
Posts: 10,742
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianaw26
First i need a transom worth saving....
It is a Mastercraft right???
__________________
Living like no one else so later we can live like no one else

MC's owned:
1986 Skier 19
1995 ProStar 190
2003 X-7
1994 ProStar 205 (current)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-27-2006, 10:27 PM
erkoehler's Avatar
erkoehler erkoehler is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 2008 MasterCraft ProStar 197
Location: Bloomingdale, IL
Posts: 14,473
Send a message via AIM to erkoehler Send a message via MSN to erkoehler
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKI*MC
I would put a transom saver on it when you are done.

Where can you get a transom saver?
__________________
www.lauderdalelakesmarina.com
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-27-2006, 10:28 PM
brianaw26's Avatar
brianaw26 brianaw26 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Boat: 1
Location: Dallas
Posts: 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrandol
It is a Mastercraft right???
True..... My point being, a wakeboard/ski hitting the transom couldn’t mess up the finish, because there is no finish left

That will be a next winter project. Ill have the stringers replaced/ swim platform refinished / carb rebuilt / and exhaust done by mayish.

I suppose while I do the platform I might as well do the guard
.
__________________
1981 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
351 - Powerslot
Photos
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 02-28-2006, 05:39 AM
X-45's Avatar
X-45 X-45 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: Mastercraft, X-45, 2005, MCX 350,
Location: South East
Posts: 339
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianaw26
That will be a next winter project. Ill have the stringers replaced/ swim platform refinished / carb rebuilt / and exhaust done by mayish.
Take a lot of photos on that stringer replacement
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 02-28-2006, 09:03 AM
herringtech's Avatar
herringtech herringtech is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Boat: 1998, Prostar 205 - X-Star, 5.7 Vortec
Location: North Georgia (Atlanta area)
Posts: 157
Send a message via AIM to herringtech Send a message via Yahoo to herringtech Send a message via Skype™ to herringtech
Thumbs up Best Teak process I have found

I cut/paste the following from another website. Follow the directions closely... this works very well.People have asked me what my secret is for achieving great looking teakwood, so I thought I would share my secret with all my MC friends. Be careful with these household chemicals. This is for outside use. I hold no responsibility to injury or loss resulting from misuse . . . well, you know the rest. Like it or not, making your teak look "showroom new" takes a little bit of time and work. The re's no quick way of getting the mildew stains out of teakwood. I've used lots of products on the market, mostly chemical bleaching agents but none have worked as well as the formula I got from an "old-time house painting" friend of mine. The Formula: (secret #1) 1 cup of Tri-Sodium Phosphate substitute. (available at most hardware & paint stores) If you can get real TSP, it's the best but TSP substitute works Okay. 2 Cups HOT water. (not boiling but hot) 1/2 Gallon of Clorox (or equiv.) Bleach. A good Teak Oil. *see note Equipment Needed: Old clothes (you'll ruin them with bleach stains!) Eye protection (protect your eyes!) Heavy rubber gloves (these household chemicals are corrosive to skin) Common household bucket (holds about 2 gals.) Plastic "medium bristle" scrub brush Garden hose without a nozzle attached (for rinse) A soft 2" paint brush Restoring "Perfect Teak" (the hard part) Do the following OUTSIDE. Ventilation is A MUST! Pour 2 cups HOT water into a household bucket. SLOWLY mix 1 cup of TSP in the bucket. Be careful NOT to inhale the fumes. (These fumes can cause permanent lung damage!) After the mix is solvent (a few minutes) pour in 1/2 gallon of bleach. Mix while you pour. You now have the formula to clean your teak. This formula will not harm plastics but may discolor your nibral prop or rudder. Protect with a plastic bag if this is of concern. Protect your (and anyone around) eyes from splash. Apply the mix with the plastic scrub brush to your teakwood. The mix (cleaner) will penetrate your wood over a 10-minute period. After 10 minutes, apply another coat and scrub firmly to help loosen dirt and debris. Do NOT rinse. Teak that has been neglected for some time will take several applications (using 10-minute intervals) before the black stains disappear. It is not unusual for this process to take up to 1.5 hours. Warning: Do NOT soak your small teakwood pieces in the bucket of teak cleaner. After the cleaning process, rinse the teakwood THOROUGHLY with cold running water from your garden hose. Use the scrub brush and scrub during rinsing. The teak cleaning solution MUST be removed completely before drying. Drying time will take about a day. (Less if you have a good hot sunny day) The teakwood must be completely dry before applying any oils. Towel drying will speed up the process. Applying teak oil on wet teakwood will likely cause mildew. After drying, lightly sand the teakwood using 240-grit sandpaper. This will remove the "fur" that appears after cleaning. After light sanding, use a soft paintbrush to clean the dust out of the grooves of the teakwood before applying the oil. *Applying a good Teak Oil: (secret #2) Choose an oil that has little or no Silicones and no wax. Silicones give your teak a "slimy" feel and wax additives make your teak look "frosty" in a few weeks. These additives are intended to repel water but I find they spoil the natural look and feel of teak a lot sooner. I have 2 good recommendations for Teak Oil if you ask, but a good quality Golden Teak Oil will do the job. Stay away from blends that contain silicones or wax. Teak Oil is best applied to dry teakwood in the hot sun. Several coats (8 or more!) applied 30 minutes apart while the hot sun "bakes" the oil deep into the teakwood is recommended. Apply liberally using a 2" soft paintbrush stroking with the grain of the wood. After 8 or more coats, let the wood "dry" overnight. After "drying" period, wipe with a soft dry towel. Your award-winning teakwood should now look better than "showroom new".
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 02-28-2006, 10:39 AM
east tx skier's Avatar
east tx skier east tx skier is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
Location: End of my rope.
Posts: 25,304
The .pdf to TMC No. 1' s method is in the FAQ thread. I was gifted my transom saver (thanks George). Don't know if he made it or had it made. It's basically a piece of teak that's contoured and is attached to the top of your platform (I put long composite decking screws from the bottom up to attach mine.
__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-28-2006, 11:03 AM
TonyB's Avatar
TonyB TonyB is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Boat: 1991 Prostar 190 Powerslot
Location: Somerville AL
Posts: 403
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sporty
It is a very fine paper indeed... LOL...

I think they were called Zig-Zag in a previous life...
Sporty,
I'm familiar with Zig-Zag, mostly the 1.5s, but I would never have believed it would remove wood.

Recalling days past it seemed to add wood.
__________________
Devil made me do it the first time.
Second time, I did it on my own.

Last edited by TonyB; 02-28-2006 at 12:37 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 03-01-2006, 06:48 PM
brianaw26's Avatar
brianaw26 brianaw26 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Boat: 1
Location: Dallas
Posts: 150
All sanded. I have the missing piece cut and sanded. It is not in the picture. Waiting for the oil to come in the mail.

__________________
1981 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
351 - Powerslot
Photos
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 03-01-2006, 06:50 PM
SKI*MC's Avatar
SKI*MC SKI*MC is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Boat: MasterCraft, Stars and Stripes, 1983, 351 W.
Location: Slinger, WI
Posts: 1,980
Send a message via AIM to SKI*MC Send a message via MSN to SKI*MC
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkoehler
Where can you get a transom saver?

Ita hand made. We got some hard wood, that doesnt rot, ( i have no clue what kind of wood it is) and we stencled it onto the transom, and cut it, sanded it, teaked it, and drilled it on.




That looks really cool. As for th oil, why mail? I always get mine from fleet farm, but thats in the spring. Never mind...
__________________
You don't have to buy a lake to own it~MasterCraft
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 03-01-2006, 07:18 PM
erkoehler's Avatar
erkoehler erkoehler is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 2008 MasterCraft ProStar 197
Location: Bloomingdale, IL
Posts: 14,473
Send a message via AIM to erkoehler Send a message via MSN to erkoehler
I might have to make one of those. Ask your Dad what wood he made it out of????
__________________
www.lauderdalelakesmarina.com
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:37 AM.