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  #11  
Old 02-19-2006, 12:13 PM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
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RMBRINNER,

I would suggest giving the cheapest gun a try first. My seat bases are some type of hard plastic, like Starboard. I tried a hand stapler and an electric and could only drive a 3/8" staple in about three quarters of the way, then I had to tap in with a hammer. Royal PITA when you are talking a lot of staples. I bought the air stapler because I didn't want to deal with all those thousand of staples by hand. Definitely try an inexpensive one and see how it goes.
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  #12  
Old 02-19-2006, 12:15 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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I think that's great advice. At worst, you pull a few staples out and return the cheap one.

Oh, and the long bent flat head screwdriver is key to getting the old ones out.
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  #13  
Old 02-19-2006, 12:20 PM
Tom023 Tom023 is offline
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I found this tool in my tool box and used it to pull the stables. I'm not really sure what it is but it works great for getting under them and pulling them up.
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Last edited by Tom023; 02-05-2007 at 03:43 PM.
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  #14  
Old 02-19-2006, 05:25 PM
rmbrinner rmbrinner is offline
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Thank you for all the suggestions! I think I might check with some more Upholstery shops in the Memphis area first, as some of your replies have made me question whehter I should get into this considering I would be recovering every vinyl piece in the boat.
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2006, 02:53 PM
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Kevin 89MC Kevin 89MC is offline
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You'll want a pneumatic stapler for going into plastic/fiberglass. The hand powered ones work fine for wood, but useless for plastic/fiberglass. I tried re-attaching the carpet along the bottom of my engine cover with my hand held one, and it didn't even scratch the fiberglass. I haven't tried an electric one, but sounds like they might not do it either. A small compressor is all it would take, and it would have many other uses (filling tires, balls, etc.)

I'm going to delve into re-skinning mine soon, and can't really afford to pay for it, so my mind's made up! I say save the money & gain a skill, if you have the time & desire. Of course mine's an '89, so I won't be too picky if it's not perfect.
Good luck.
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  #16  
Old 02-20-2006, 03:32 PM
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Hoff1 Hoff1 is offline
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I think for $1500, I would definitely try and do a couple myself. If you mess up, you can always remove the new staples and try again or pay someone to do it.

Having done a few skins in the past, I can appreciate the pain of an entire boat. My bench seatback was incredibly difficult to get the skin on because it's got so many angles and lines (plus my sewing job wasn't too good). I looked like a hyeina out in the back yard jumping around with the seat and skin. Didn't realize how dumb I looked until I saw my brother and his girlfriend at the window laughing.

Removing the skins yourself would definitely make the price of installation cheaper. Easy to do, just time consuming. I used a knife for mine. I used a Stanely manual powered as well, but had wood backing on the seats as opposed to plastic/fiberglass.
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  #17  
Old 02-20-2006, 04:28 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin 89MC
You'll want a pneumatic stapler for going into plastic/fiberglass. The hand powered ones work fine for wood, but useless for plastic/fiberglass. I tried re-attaching the carpet along the bottom of my engine cover with my hand held one, and it didn't even scratch the fiberglass. I haven't tried an electric one, but sounds like they might not do it either. A small compressor is all it would take, and it would have many other uses (filling tires, balls, etc.)

I'm going to delve into re-skinning mine soon, and can't really afford to pay for it, so my mind's made up! I say save the money & gain a skill, if you have the time & desire. Of course mine's an '89, so I won't be too picky if it's not perfect.
Good luck.
Stanley manual worked fine for me and I've got the plastic seat bottom. I almost want to say that it was easier to stable into than wood.
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  #18  
Old 02-20-2006, 05:23 PM
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Kevin 89MC Kevin 89MC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier
Stanley manual worked fine for me and I've got the plastic seat bottom. I almost want to say that it was easier to stable into than wood.
Now that I think about it, I did not try to staple into any plastic, just the fiberglass. Now you got me wondering if my observer's seat is plastic or wood. I'll know in a little bit. I may still have to buy a pneumatic stapler anyways! You can't have too many tools!
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  #19  
Old 02-21-2006, 09:31 AM
rmbrinner rmbrinner is offline
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What was the comment about sewing for? If you have the skins, you don't have to so anything, do you?
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  #20  
Old 02-21-2006, 10:12 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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rmbrinner, I think he said the skins he got were not sewn particularly well. That's how I took it anyway. I did not have that problem with the skins I've ordered.

You're correct, they come presewn.
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Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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