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  #11  
Old 08-15-2014, 11:41 AM
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Eljaybee Eljaybee is offline
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  #12  
Old 08-16-2014, 02:14 AM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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OK going to do a prop shaft adjustment hopefully tomorrow. I looked at the shaft and the log and can feel and see no scaring or wearing on them so hopefully i'm good there. However I'm not as sure about the strut bushings/cutlass bearings if anyone would like to comment on them it would be appreciated.

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and the strut bushings/cutlass bearings



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  #13  
Old 08-16-2014, 12:46 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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The cutlass bearing is worn on one side as I am sure you can see. I would replace the cutlass bearings if your are this far along. with the uneven wear you may get some vibration if the shaft is straight and the shaft has too much play in the strut.

getting the coupler off is a bit difficult sometimes. skidim sells a shorter socket to get at the nut. you will just have to fabricate someone to hold the shaft to loosen the nut.
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  #14  
Old 08-16-2014, 03:33 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_2_o View Post
OK going to do a prop shaft adjustment hopefully tomorrow. I looked at the shaft and the log and can feel and see no scaring or wearing on them so hopefully i'm good there. However I'm not as sure about the strut bushings/cutlass bearings if anyone would like to comment on them it would be appreciated.
how could you possibly not be sure of that cluster? take the entire drive shaft assembly/strut out and replace the cutlass. Someone has completely screwed the pooch on that mess. Pull it out and fix it right- the engine is not aligned properly resulting in this mess

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

then realign the engine to allow the shaft to come in straight and aligned in the strut
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  #15  
Old 08-16-2014, 04:30 PM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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Originally Posted by waterlogged882 View Post
how could you possibly not be sure of that cluster? take the entire drive shaft assembly/strut out and replace the cutlass. Someone has completely screwed the pooch on that mess. Pull it out and fix it right- the engine is not aligned properly resulting in this mess

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

then realign the engine to allow the shaft to come in straight and aligned in the strut
mostly because i've not done a cutlass bearing before so I am not 100% sure as to what it should look like or not. Thank you however for the links I am going to replace it.
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  #16  
Old 08-16-2014, 11:53 PM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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so went to pull the prop shaft today so I could at least start the process for the cutlass bearings and now even more questions...
when i disconnected the prop shaft flange I was expecting it to pop back to center and after the cutlass bearings get done I was expecting to have to align the motor and be happy. but that is not the case the strut is aiming the shaft right up to the side of the log. so I am going to get the new cutlass bearing pressed in and see how the alignment is at that point. if it is still off is there alignment procedures for the strut or is there a procedure like the motor alignment for the strut?

also looking at skidim which is a better bearing to get for a 351 with powerslot? Looks like i found the answer to this one here

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=27489

and now the crazy question, how do you remove the nut on the end of the prop shaft to get the flange off it to actually remove the prop shaft?

and i'm sure more to come.

also thanks to everyone here for helping you guys are a great resource.
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  #17  
Old 08-17-2014, 10:23 AM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_2_o View Post
so went to pull the prop shaft today so I could at least start the process for the cutlass bearings and now even more questions...
when i disconnected the prop shaft flange I was expecting it to pop back to center and after the cutlass bearings get done I was expecting to have to align the motor and be happy. but that is not the case the strut is aiming the shaft right up to the side of the log. so I am going to get the new cutlass bearing pressed in and see how the alignment is at that point. if it is still off is there alignment procedures for the strut or is there a procedure like the motor alignment for the strut?

also looking at skidim which is a better bearing to get for a 351 with powerslot? Looks like i found the answer to this one here

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=27489

and now the crazy question, how do you remove the nut on the end of the prop shaft to get the flange off it to actually remove the prop shaft?

and i'm sure more to come.

also thanks to everyone here for helping you guys are a great resource.
From what you say I think the strut is bent of twisted or some kind of hosed so take a good look at the strut and even the abused wear on the bearing could be leading you to this make sure you press a bearing into a good strut and not one that may have been banged up there is no strut alignment it is anchored in place with severl bolts and that is the reference point to all things driveline here’s what I’d do if this were mine- access the current situation for relavaancy before you go forward. Next pull the shaft and asssaess the strut for good or bad. Bad-replace (don’t ask about reconfiguring it just replace it. Good- press in a new bearing and put in the shaft ass0min the shaft is straight if not get a new one- put the coupler back in place and see how it matches up-the shaft should turn at the point= check all thru-holes where you have previosu pictures and make sure the shaft is in much better alignment. Adjust the engine alignment to this setup remembering that the strut disctates the shact position- use the coupler bolts to align the last few thousdnds for the final set. In theory everything should be aligned-next put in new packing and get ready to lake test. Do not test out of water. Also be prepared to do run out testing and alignment checks along the entire process to make shur everythin is in place as you go
There is a thread here on how to remove the nut on the coupler end-I think there is two nuts there that may not be readily apparent-there is a writeup here on how to do it or maybe on utub-

Look thru this string- http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=48427

one last thing..don't go by what I sey but i offer opinions of past. i am saying your engine could be sitting perfect and there may be anuther issue but your descriptions so far have been limited to allow all considerartons. you may get diffarent mileage

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...=shaft+coupler

Last edited by waterlogged882; 08-17-2014 at 10:40 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-17-2014, 03:15 PM
gweaver gweaver is online now
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As far as removing the prop shaft from the coupler,, this is what I did. On the socket, I machined down both ends- the socket end to reduce the length, and the end that fits on the ratchet so it was shorter and it had the four flat sides to fit a wrench. Took a while, as I was using a knee mill which doesn't have flood cooling. Maybe an hour and a half to machine?
G
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  #19  
Old 08-17-2014, 03:24 PM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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gweaver: thanks that is exactly what I was looking for thank you. since i have a mill here I hopefully can get one made up.

waterlogged: you are on the same path my brain is. As for the propshaft I am going to take it to a friends machine shop to see if it is bent or not.

thanks again for the help
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  #20  
Old 08-21-2014, 01:05 AM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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OK while i'm waiting on some parts to come in I removed the cover from the pylon..... not safe to use any more because of the corrosion on it. I was able to pull a chunk off it that was easily 1/2" thick. Now in looking for a new pylon I had an idea, I have the machinery available to me why not just make a custom one up for myself. So i'm curious if anyone knows if the pylons are 2024, 6061 or 7075? Thanks if you know.

I can always test it with sodium hydroxide but i'm lazy sometimes.
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