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  #1  
Old 07-31-2014, 10:39 AM
SpokaneSteve SpokaneSteve is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Boat: 2007 X1
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Loose Guidepost - advice wanted

Hello all:

I have a couple questions. My left guidepost has broken/cracked it's attachment to the trailer. Here is an overall:

Name:  Left Fender.jpg
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Here is the crack from beneath:

Name:  Left Fender crack.jpg
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My plan is to remove the fiberglass fender and my neighbor has a electric welding maching. We are thinking that we will repair the broken medal and maybe add some thickness to the metal there.

Has anyone had this problem before? Was it tricky to remove the fender? Any advice on the removal?

It looks like there are four bolts holding the fender to the trailer but there isn't access to the bolt heads unless I were to remove the foot pads. Here are the front bolts:

Name:  Left Fender underneath.jpg
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Thanks much. All advice and opinions appreciated.

Cheers, Steve.
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  #2  
Old 07-31-2014, 10:47 AM
Topp dawg Topp dawg is offline
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Can you not leave the fender on and weld from the bottom. Tell him to use a welding mat so that he doesn't burn the boat for anything valuable.
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  #3  
Old 07-31-2014, 11:03 AM
SpokaneSteve SpokaneSteve is offline
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We talked about the possibility of leaving the fender on and if it ends up being too hard to remove the fenders we may do that but my friend the welder is worried about too much heat transfer to the fiberglass and/or paint causing it to deform/burn/melt (I don't really know what happens to overheated fiberglass but I'm guessing it's not good. :eek

Cheers, Steve.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:04 AM
Topp dawg Topp dawg is offline
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I definitely wouldn't want to breath in the fumes of melting fiberglass.
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  #5  
Old 07-31-2014, 11:20 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is online now
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2007? wow that's a bit quick for that to rust thru.

Fenders come off easy - you can get new anti skid tape for cheap.

Looks like poor weld from the factory - keep us posted.
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:16 PM
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GoneBoatN GoneBoatN is offline
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I removed one of my trailer fenders to do some fiberglass work.

I just used a heat gun and scraped off the forward and rear non-skid pad. A bit of a PITA as they are glued down well. I then got a replacement set of non-skid pads from the dealer.

You could try to measure and dremel out some holes where the screw/bolts are. If you did it just right it might not look too bad to just bolt back on. Chances it would not be very accurate and you would end up with odd shaped holes in the pads that would not look too good.
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:34 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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I wouldn't take the chance of melting the fender by not removing it.
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:52 PM
SpokaneSteve SpokaneSteve is offline
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Can anyone point me to the anti-skid tape and recomend an adhesive?

Do these come pre-shaped or do you have to cut them?

Thanks, Steve.
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  #9  
Old 07-31-2014, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpokaneSteve View Post
Can anyone point me to the anti-skid tape and recomend an adhesive?

Do these come pre-shaped or do you have to cut them?

Thanks, Steve.
in this thread http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=59719 post 3

AntiSkid pads soft
http://www.antisliptapeshop.com/Prod...e-Cuts-8x25/81
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  #10  
Old 07-31-2014, 03:51 PM
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MattsCraft MattsCraft is offline
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One side of my old '09 X2 trailer did the same thing. My neighbor is a pipe fitter, he brought me some 1/4" steal plate, I cut it to fit and U-Bolted around the guide pole and through the steel plate. Worked like a champ.
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