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Old 07-14-2014, 11:02 PM
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JL e1400dm monoblock Amp issues

I'm on my 3rd JL e1400dm monoblock amp which drives my two stock subs in my 06 MC X15. All burn out within about 1 season. I do not abuse, and gain is only a little more than half way. Wiring checked and is all ok. Has remote bass knob on dash which I installed this year. Anyone have similar issues with this unit? Can I get them fixed at a reasonable price? Seems to be a product issue, so this is why I am questioning if others suffer similar problems. Any suggestions on a similar replacement?


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Old 07-15-2014, 09:33 AM
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A replacement to drive two IB 10-inch subs would be the JL Audio XD600/1.
Yes, you can get it repaired at a flat rate from a JL Audio authorized repair facility. It's usually reasonable.
That's an old model before they used a protective scheme that cut back on the supply voltage when the amplifier was over-driven or at risk for thermal damage. But unless it's abused it's very reliable.
If you have gone through three models then you are clearly doing something wrong....whether you're beating on it, it's set up wrong, put in a bad application, can't cool adequately, or isn't getting the voltage supply that it needs, etc.
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:20 PM
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Thanks David. I wanted to see first if this was an inherent problem with this amp. Now I will start looking into a heat issue, as I do notice it gets quite warm in there when sitting at the sandbar and listening to music. We do not play it loud as we usually have the little kids with us. I keep the ski locker open on both sides to allow air to pass. I really dont think it is an issue of abuse. I fear it is heat. Voltage is constant and runs straight to the battery via a distribution block. Same for the ground. Remote wire is fed from the radio. Running the 2 subs, 1 off each block of the single channel. Did not bridge.

Should I put a fan on it?
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Old 07-15-2014, 03:36 PM
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You can't bridge a monoblock amplifier.
We're only speculating that heat may be the problem so sure, you can add a fan. A floating fan mostly circulates air around the perimeter of the fan which doesn't do much good. If you want a truly effective fan, mount the fan just above (1/2" or so) the middle of the amplifier within a flat shroud with dimensions equal to the amplifier perimeter. Then a small 2-inch fan will really produce. A secondary fan can be placed in the compartment exterior wall to exchange outside air. The locker can become 145 degrees in July/Aug while the outside air is bound to be 50 degrees less. Also, elevate the amplifier a 1/2" up off its mounting surface. That takes care of cooling but it begs the question as to why a fairly efficient Class D amplifier would be having thermal issues. A fan is a nice bandaid but if a fan is needed you are generating too much heat for some reason.
That amp should have a dedicated 4-gauge +/- cable to the battery or 4-gauge extensions divided by distribution with a 1-gauge +/- home run. Less than that = more heat.
The batteries should never be allowed to dip below 11.8 volts. You should start out the day with all batteries at a 12.5 to 12.7 volt level with the boat off. Less than that = more heat.
If the amp has a bass boost it should be 'off' in an open air environment and certainly with an IB woofer. Any bass equalization = more heat.
If the lowpass crossover is set too low it forces you to gain the amplifier up too much and works the amplifier and subwoofers inordinately hard. You guessed it. = more heat. Try moving the x-over up 1/3rd octave which will force you to gain the amplifier input down. You'll get more overall output with less subwoofer excursion and less amplifier power expended. But I wouldn't go higher than 125 Hz.
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:39 PM
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Ok, so I think where I will start is read where I have the x-over set tonight. I am quite sure that the bass boost is on, so I will turn it off. I know my +/- cables are more than adequate as I re-configured when I bought the boat because it was a pure mess. I used 4 gauge extensions from a distribution block, which then ran back to the battery on both the positive and negative battery feeds.

Another good point could be the boat batteries. I have two Deka glass mat units which are getting up there in age. However, I am pretty sensitive to watching my volt meter in the boat while parked out listening to music for the day. I will quite often run the boat for about 5-7 minutes every hour (annoys the hell out of my wife). However, low voltage could be leading to heat load as you mention.

In the end, I am definately going to fabricate some standoffs from the Amp wall this winter (for all amps). Then I am going to take a hard look at getting good cooling across the entire board, not just one amp.
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:46 PM
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Oh, and I did not mean to say bridged (sorry). I meant to say hooking up the 2 subs on the monoblock amp to drop the ohm rating of the subwoofer drivers. I have never did this or even attempted.
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Old 07-15-2014, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06MCX15 View Post
Oh, and I did not mean to say bridged (sorry). I meant to say hooking up the 2 subs on the monoblock amp to drop the ohm rating of the subwoofer drivers. I have never did this or even attempted.
It doesn't matter. Once you type it you can't take it back. Forum rules.
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by David Analog View Post
It doesn't matter. Once you type it you can't take it back. Forum rules.

This is true! I am not an expert on stereos by any means. All I do is try my best to keep things working properly. So here are some pics of what my amp settings were at the time of detonation:

Setting was nowhere near 125 Hz like you warned about. You see any other problems besides the bass boost being on?


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Old 07-16-2014, 09:06 AM
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All the most perceivable bass output is between 50 and 80 Hz. It doesn't appear that you were getting much of that range from your amp and subs. That would work both products into the ground. Also, get the slope switched from 24 to 12 dB. Raise the xover up between 110 to 125 Hz, do the highpass on the other amplifiers at the same frequency, and gain down the sub after raising the xover.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:17 AM
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Thanks for the tip. I will do exactly this and let you know how it sounds. I should have the new one by Friday and will install after work. Gonna send the old one out for repair. Flat rate of $180. A little pricey but gives me another to possibly use in the future.
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