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  #11  
Old 07-15-2014, 11:58 AM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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can you get a vice grips in there? if not I would let someone who has the right tools work it out... if you snap that off you may be buying a new pump... although painful it is always better to do it right than do it again...

My guess is that as others have stated the brass fitting is cross threaded, and that is causing the leak along with the inability to get it out... Brass is pretty soft so should come out.

Good luck...
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2014, 02:26 PM
TallSkinnyGuy TallSkinnyGuy is offline
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I decided to have my mechanic do it rather than me trying different things and just making it worse. I actually do have a spare fuel pump, but it is just the pump and not the housing that holds the pump. The leak is at the housing connection.

I expect my mechanic will use vice grips. I'm hoping the threads in the housing don't get messed up in the removal process, but from what many have said it sounds like the brass fitting is going to take the majority of the damage. If removal damages the threads in the housing then hopefully my mechanic will have the proper size tap to clean it up.
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2014, 04:05 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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I meant housing... That's what I get for not proof reading....


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...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2014, 04:27 PM
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Worthing skier Worthing skier is offline
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Fuel leak

Hi

Had a similar issue, behind one of of the unions there is a o ring which had perished ,rather than struggling with the pump in place i would remove it then you have a better chance to
undo the brass unions ,
I would not advise using vice grips as brass is very soft and the vice grips will tear off the flats from the union ,
Go and buy a set of pipe spanners, (15 or $20) , apply some gentle heat and it will be a cheap easy fix.

good luck

Kevin
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  #15  
Old 07-18-2014, 04:27 PM
TallSkinnyGuy TallSkinnyGuy is offline
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My mechanic was able to get the leaking fitting off today. Turns out it was sealed with some kind of adhesive like Red Loctite, which is why it was so difficult to get off. It wasn't cross-threaded or corroded, but rather just glued in -- and probably by the factory because the previous owner had never replaced the fuel pump or messed with this area.

The leak was caused by a crack in the stainless fuel line right at the flare on the end. My mechanic said that stainless tends to be brittle. He fabricated a new fuel line (just that 4" line shown in the pics above) using steel because he said it is less brittle (and here in California we don't have as much of a corrosion problem as in more humid regions). He re-used the old brass fittings and put some sealant on the threads that he called "grape jelly" -- it was an anaerobic sealant.

It took my mechanic 90 minutes from start to finish, so it cost me $135, but the tools he used were pretty unique and the knowledge of how to use them properly made the process 20 times faster than if I had tried to do it all myself. I learned a lot watching him and he's really good at talking me through the things he is doing, and now I have an operable boat again. This put me in the mood to wash the boat, clean the bilge, wax the gel coat and treat the vinyl with 303. Ready to hit the water again!
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  #16  
Old 07-21-2014, 05:54 PM
curver900 curver900 is offline
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Did you thank him for saving you $300 doing it yourself???

Good to hear it was a cheap fix....
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