Go Back   TeamTalk > Off Topic > Off Topic Discussion

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 07-11-2014, 09:17 AM
nickespi's Avatar
nickespi nickespi is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Boat: 2002 MasterCraft X-30
Location: South
Posts: 891
I'm working bids through four others as we speak. The builder pool in our area is pretty terrible due to the area blowing up over the last few years and fly by the night builders coming in.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 07-11-2014, 01:55 PM
Thrall's Avatar
Thrall Thrall is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: '06 X2 MCX
Location: Eagle River, AK!
Posts: 3,807
Send that builder packin!
If the area was already designated as storage or future living space then the joists should not change. And even if they do, you figured the additional cost pretty close.
$115k for 8' walls and a concrete floor assuming about a 2000sf basement is way out of line as well unless you're talking completely finished and very nicely appointed. I could see a $25-50k tops upcharge for unfinished and some plumbing rough ins.
__________________
'06 X2 MCX

"I understand why some people may not want to do this the way I have recommended but I can't understand the death grip some people have on a toilet plunger with a hose fitting." -JimN
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 07-11-2014, 02:06 PM
76S&S's Avatar
76S&S 76S&S is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Boat: 2002 X Star
Location: At the lake or on the way to the lake!
Posts: 1,811
I'm with Thrall on this one.

First, find another builder first.
Second, the basement pricing is way out of line. In my area you can get poured walls for about $10 per sq. ft, which would be around $15k for the walls on a basement your size. Add the slab and additional excavation and I would think you could still come in under $25k.
__________________
Being on the water is best, but when I'm not on the water I'm on TT.

2002 X Star
Sold - 76 S&S
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 07-11-2014, 02:58 PM
u bet shes wet's Avatar
u bet shes wet u bet shes wet is offline
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Boat: mastercraft, x45, 2005, 8.1L
Location: midwest
Posts: 53
We are doing a basement now and for the excavation 9' deep, slab, and walls is running $30-$35/sf in Wichita, Ks. So it should run you around the $48,000 to $56,000 for 1600 sf depending on the area.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 07-11-2014, 10:37 PM
maxpower220 maxpower220 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: None
Location: SouthEast
Posts: 278
You really should post where you are building. Building materials have tremendous cost differences in different regions (based on local practices). I moved from Tampa, FL where cinder block and stucco were cheap to Pensacola, FL where that is the most expensive (common) way to build. Since we are 15 miles from the AL border, many builders from AL build here. Stick construction is the norm in AL and they don't even consider engineered pre-built trusses.

Stem wall vs off grade vs pile construction. If I were to excavate 9' down, I would have a pond, not a basement. My house has to meet 160 mph wind codes.

All of those items go into cost. Having moved from FL to VA to OK to CA and back FL, home prices for a similar home vary GREATLY!. You show that you are in the South, prices from the mid west or CA won't be the same. Labor costs in the South are much less than in the Northeast. More details are needed.
__________________
1997 PS 205
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 07-11-2014, 11:55 PM
06MCX15's Avatar
06MCX15 06MCX15 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2014
Boat: Mastercraft X15, 2006, MCX 5.7 liter vortex, yellow / white slider
Location: Midwest
Posts: 115
Unfinished 2nd floor means 2x12 rafters, period! If not, then Engineered lumber. If the builder is asking 18k, then tell him he is smokin something unless it is roughed in with plumbing and electrical. Even so, the price is high. Also depends where you live, but I cannot imagine such an up charge....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 07-11-2014, 11:57 PM
06MCX15's Avatar
06MCX15 06MCX15 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2014
Boat: Mastercraft X15, 2006, MCX 5.7 liter vortex, yellow / white slider
Location: Midwest
Posts: 115
BTW, go for engineered lumber. Silent floor is the best way to go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 07-13-2014, 05:45 AM
rtw_travel's Avatar
rtw_travel rtw_travel is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Boat: 2014 X-14V
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 243
Something's not right here.

I know if we got someone with a set of finished plans who said "I want you to build this two story house, but the second floor wasn't designed as actual living space, so can you change that so I might be able do a second floor later, and what about turning the crawl space into a basement"...we'd walk away. I know budget is always an issue, but these are very significant changes you're asking for, and it would make me wonder how likely I am to get paid, and how likely you are to actually press the 'go' button and build anything. There are 10,000 little decisions I'm going to ask you to make through the building process on colours, finishes,flooring, tiles, fixtures and cabinets, and you're still stuck at the design stage trying to decide if I'm building one floor or three.

I realize this may sound too critical, but I am trying to be helpful. Unless your builder has an office full of designers and you're paying them to do the design work, then get your plans and budget right first with your designer/ architect before approaching a builder. Smaller builders with no design staff should be good at reading plans and coming up with suggestions at how to improve things... But you're asking them to spend too much time on this, particularly if there are not a lot of builders in the area and if they are already really busy. That may be what is causing the high pricing that you are getting.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 07-13-2014, 06:08 AM
nickespi's Avatar
nickespi nickespi is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Boat: 2002 MasterCraft X-30
Location: South
Posts: 891
Interesting view. I just have a hard time grasping the concept that changing a crawlspace to a basement height crawlspace would be nearly 50% upcharge of the price of the original home. I live in a very affordable area. This 2200 sq ft one level is $235k completed from the original bid. Hard to believe that the extra block, slab, and excavation would take this house to $350k. The 3-4000 sq ft custom homes in the area go for between $350-500k max! That would be waterfront property here. Do you not require pre-approval letters from your potential clients? When I did the plan work up with the architect the price he figured would be about $238k for the house...to go to a basement about an additional $18k. Numbers we were comfortable with.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 07-13-2014, 06:54 AM
rtw_travel's Avatar
rtw_travel rtw_travel is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Boat: 2014 X-14V
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 243
I don't know building costs or standard building practices and requirements in your area and we build up-scale house in the 5000sq ft plus range, and I've never done a crawl space...but in our area, full excavation and backfill would be $15k, full height concrete walls plus finished slab is about $40k. Add stairs and finishing, but deduct the cost savings of not doing a crawl space. This assumes no special structural requirements or water issues to deal with.

We always use the truss supplier for the floor and roof engineering- they have computer programs that calculate everything out and provide engineer approval stamp drawings based on the architectural drawings that you provide. The only thing a real engineer does is specify the size of the strip footings and pad footings. Then you buy a package from the truss mfg for all structural elements (posts, beams, roof trusses and floor joists) in the house, to be installed by the builder's framing crew. The difference in cost to having a usable second floor is incremental materials only, and it would certainly run only a few thousand dollars. There would be no difference in labour. The assumes that you'd not have to redo truss design to get the headroom, or put in dormers/extra stairs/windows/ or raise the roof. Unless the drawings show otherwise, any builder would assume that you're finishing the second floor eventually and already include the properly sized floor joist in their quote.

I'm happy to provide comments on drawings, but I'm not sure how useful that would be because of the differences between our location and yours.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:36 PM.