1992 205 Trailer Refurbishment

[205er]

Originally Posted by prostardad

Hey 205er,
Will you please tell me how far apart your bunks are? Are they farther apart at the rear of the trailer and gradually get closer towards the front?

I have a 92 prostar 205 as well but the trailer is made by Prestige and was built in 1999. It doesn't even come close to matching the hull shape and I struggle each time I try to load my boat on the trailer.

Any dimensions for the bunks, roller and keel stop would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
SWH

My bunks are 18.5" apart at the front and 38" apart at the back, measured inner side to inner side. In addition, the bunks are pretty flat at the back, mirroring the flat bottom in the stern of the 205. As you move to the front the bunks gradually twist until they are at maybe a 30-degree angle from horizontal. The bunks are 12-foot long pressure treated wood.

The keel roller is located just about even with the front of the bunks, and is 10" wide, a little below the lower inner surface of the bunks.

My keel stop has about a 100-degree angle between the right and left pads.

I hope this answers your questions completely. Let me know if you need any other measurements. I'm also going to post some pictures in a few minutes that might also illustrate some of the measurements and relationships between the various parts.

[205er]

Originally Posted by Lumbergh

What kind of jack did you go with and source / price.

The winch us a Fulton F2, correct?

Nice work.

The jack is a Fulton part #J120W0301. I got it on Amazon from
AutoAccessories4Less for $50 including shipping. I chose that model because it replaces the stock jack - just remove the snap ring and install the new one on the existing bracket.

The winch is a Fulton F2. I got it through Amazon Prime for $94.09 (free shipping if you're a member). Maybe a little bit of overkill for as much as I use the trailer, but it's a nice looking winch.

[205er]

Here's some more pictures of the (almost) complete restoration. I finished carpeting the bunks, the keel stop and the inside of the fenders. I also replaced the riveted-on cheesy plastic clamps holding the brake line to the cross member with stainless steel cushioned clamps. I think they'll work better and they look better, too.

One thing I read in another thread about replacing the carpet on the bunks that I'll add: when you're unbolting the bunks from the trailer frame, squirt a generous amount of Liquid Wrench on the bolts the night before to loosen up the rust. I only replaced one of the bolts, and that was because I resorted to sawing it off. The rest of the carriage bolts got freshened up by using a 5/16th x 18 thread die to straighten out any dinged up or rusty threads. The original bolts appeared to be stainless, so with a little maintenance they still were fine.

About the only things left to do:
-bleed the brakes
-reinstall the bearing buddies and pump some grease into them
-get a spare wheel and tire (maybe a cover, too)
-maybe add some prop cage rollers

[prostardad]

Thanks for the info 205er. That is exactly what I was looking for. I plan to revise my trailer for my winter project this year. This thread will be very helpful to me.
SWH

[dboat]

Is there a place to buy rollers for the bottom of the boat trailer at the transom so it doesn't scratch the trailer frame?

[205er]

I haven't found any yet that work specifically for my trailer. California Trailer Works has a nice setup but it is specifically designed to work with DHM trailers (their brand), and the prop cage has a different angle than mine so won't work. You could probably buy the casters from them and have your own mounting bracket built -- any trailer repair/welding shop could probably make something workable. I might go that route.