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Old 07-06-2014, 11:07 PM
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205er 205er is offline
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Boat: 1992 MC 205 ProStar 351
Location: WA
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1992 205 Trailer Refurbishment

I was planning to do a little light maintenance on my trailer, which I've owned since it was new:
1. New winch
2. New jack
3. New keel roller
4. Fix up the Boat Buddy, i.e. add carpet padding (seen elsewhere on this site)
5. Sand down the surface rust spots from gravel dings and repaint where needed
6. Recarpet the bunks
7. Service the UFP A-60 brake actuator, as the brakes didn't seem to be working

I don't use the trailer that much, since I live on a lake, so mostly I only use it for one annual vacation to Eastern Washington and to put the boat in the garage in the winter. Otherwise my boat is on a lift. The trailer has spent a large part of its life in the garage, except for about 10 years when I would store the boat outside because it wouldn't fit in my old garage. The trailer still looked pretty good except for a few rust spots.

Everything went pretty well for the first 6 items on the list. I'm still awaiting some parts to be delivered (jack, keel roller, carpet) but everything is disassembled and ready for install. The big deal turned out to be the brake actuator (#7).

After taking it apart (pull the brake line off the back of the master cylinder, remove the 3/4" pins, slide it out), here's what I found (see pictures below):

After adding up all the parts that would have to be replaced, available from Eastern Marine, I was up to about $135 or so before shipping. With that I would be reusing the inner sleeve and the old coupler. I ended up ordering a replacement UFP A-60 fully assembled inner sleeve including the master cylinder and all the associated parts for $144 plus $16 shipping from Pacific Trailers. The real clincher was that I don't have to worry about putting all of the parts back together. Brakes are not exactly my strong suit.

My advice to all of you with UFP or other brand trailer brakes - make sure you do the maintenance or you'll wind up with a rusty piece of junk that needs to be replaced. And my trailer has never been in salt water! It's not hard to take it out for inspection and cleaning. The main tools needed are a 3/8ths wrench for the brake line, a 9/16ths socket and open end wrench for the safety cables, and snap ring pliers plus a hammer and drift punch to remove the main pins.

I'll keep you posted how the new coupler and actuator work once I get them installed, plus any other problems I run into.
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  #2  
Old 07-07-2014, 01:41 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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awesome advice.. great pics...
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2014, 09:14 PM
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205er 205er is offline
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Boat: 1992 MC 205 ProStar 351
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After replacing the A-60 actuator, I figured that I should also check out the wheel cylinders to make sure that they were okay before filling the system back up with brake fluid. After taking off the drums, I found that the wheel cylinders were also totally rusted out and needed to be replaced.

Having never really done a drum brake job, I was a little reluctant to start taking things apart without knowing what I was doing. So I googled "drum brake repair" or something similar, and in about a minute of searching I found Eric the Car Guy, who has a series of You Tube videos. If you want to know how to take apart and repair drum brakes, watch his videos first. They are pretty short and make total sense, tell you what tools to use, etc. It made the job really easy.

Here's some pictures of the before repairs situation. I'll post some after repair pictures soon.
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Old 07-18-2014, 12:03 AM
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205er 205er is offline
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Boat: 1992 MC 205 ProStar 351
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Here's a picture of a new wheel cylinder installed (aluminum & bootless - supposedly less apt to corrosion from water), plus new A-60 actuator, new Fulton winch, new Fulton jack, new keel roller and new paint where it needed it. I still have to re-carpet the bunks and keel stop, just haven't gotten to it yet. I also need to bleed the brakes and then it will be ready to go.

The only things I am considering as additional improvements are getting a spare wheel and tire, and perhaps adding some prop cage rollers to quit gouging up my driveway when it drags..
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Old 07-18-2014, 01:50 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
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You're doing some great work. Those brake parts were seriously ugly.

I would be happy to get you pricing on that spare wheel and tire. I have really nice spare tire carriers if you need one.....I didn't see one in your pictures.
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  #6  
Old 07-22-2014, 03:25 PM
dboat dboat is offline
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Boat: 1994 Mastercraft Maristar 225 VRS
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Does Rattle can white from rustoleum works for the color match???
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  #7  
Old 07-22-2014, 10:23 PM
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205er 205er is offline
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Boat: 1992 MC 205 ProStar 351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dboat View Post
Does Rattle can white from rustoleum works for the color match???
I used Rustoleum Gloss White (spray can) and Rustoleum Gloss White in a non-aerosol can for brushing it on some of the tougher to reach spots (underside of the rails, around the brake backing plates and springs). The color match was pretty good.
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:07 PM
dboat dboat is offline
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Thanks 205er!
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2014, 02:03 PM
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Lumbergh Lumbergh is offline
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Boat: 1991 ProStar 190
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What kind of jack did you go with and source / price.

The winch us a Fulton F2, correct?

Nice work.
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Old 07-26-2014, 11:12 PM
prostardad prostardad is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Boat: 1992 MC Prostar 205
Location: Southeast
Posts: 12
Hey 205er,
Will you please tell me how far apart your bunks are? Are they farther apart at the rear of the trailer and gradually get closer towards the front?

I have a 92 prostar 205 as well but the trailer is made by Prestige and was built in 1999. It doesn't even come close to matching the hull shape and I struggle each time I try to load my boat on the trailer.

Any dimensions for the bunks, roller and keel stop would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
SWH
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