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  #41  
Old 08-08-2014, 03:29 PM
mobilecascade mobilecascade is offline
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Boat: '90 PS 190 /. '02 XStar
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Also, found out why my voltage would drop from 14 to 11v when we got above idle speed... Wound up being the stock alternator bearings were shot, so while we were in there, upgraded from the stock 70 amp to a 110amp... All is well.

However, after installing the sub, noticed I lost my Tach and Water Temp when out last Sunday... Guess I moved the wiring harness somewhere....

If it ain't one thing, its another....

Last edited by mobilecascade; 08-09-2014 at 10:23 AM.
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  #42  
Old 08-08-2014, 08:33 PM
mobilecascade mobilecascade is offline
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Update....

Happen to have a friends son stop by the house to say Hi by chance, who is an installer here in town.

He jumps up in the boat looks at what we have, and dug thru my garage and found a few RCA splitters.

The PPI manual states that you can feed the Front RCA's, then switch it from 4 channel to ST, and it will split the signal inside to all the channels. He took the splitters and split the signal to feed all 4 RCA's. Holy cow. WAAAAAYYY Better! Course it took him only 20 min to go thru the amps and tune in the sub and in-boats for us.... Cost: a few beers. Result: Sweet, given the price point amps.

Just wanted to throw this on here if anyone else was going down this path with the PPI 900.4's...
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  #43  
Old 08-08-2014, 09:23 PM
MLA MLA is offline
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Yep, it will pass through to all chnls, but if running bridged........
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  #44  
Old 08-09-2014, 04:07 PM
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ccelia ccelia is offline
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Thanks for the update. I was getting ready to rip out my PPI amp and replace it with a Syn 4 because I wasn't satisfied with the sound, but I am certainly going to give this a try since I only have one set of RCAs feeding the front channel and splitting it.
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  #45  
Old 08-21-2014, 02:25 AM
Hervacious Hervacious is offline
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I have 4 ppi amps and love them. Two 600.2's one to each rev 410 and two 1000.1's one to each jl 13W6. The get a little warm but have never failed!
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  #46  
Old 08-21-2014, 02:57 AM
mobilecascade mobilecascade is offline
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Swatguy...( & others). Wanted to say thanks for the swivel option idea..

It allowed us also to use the towers for when we beach, and wound up being a hit relaxing with friends
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Last edited by mobilecascade; 08-21-2014 at 03:40 AM.
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  #47  
Old 08-21-2014, 03:01 AM
mobilecascade mobilecascade is offline
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We were also very lucky to not lose our boat at the slip this last week like a few other folks.... We didn't even know what a "haboob" was until now. We saved ours, and assisted a Supra, Tahoe and an Epic during the storm... There was a mint Centurion that wasn't so lucky. Talk about a downer to the vacay for the family
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  #48  
Old 08-21-2014, 03:48 AM
mobilecascade mobilecascade is offline
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Also.... Had a question re: batteries.

I'll totally start a new thread since this is electrical, but going with this system I had a question. Apologize in advance for any etiquette fupa we are crossing...

When we were trying to figure out the charging issue, I swapped out one of the lead cells for a blue top optima. Right now I have the lead cell in "the hole", and have the Optima alongside running the sound. I used to get 4-5 hours of play time with the old lead cell and the AB amps... This last week we would get maybe 3 hours before the low batt alarm. Some one before mentioned that the lead cell might be better for the sub and related as it can take the sub "hit" better than the dry cell...

First is this true, and second, should we swap the Optima to the starting and lead for the sound? Or go back to all lead cell?

One idea was to put the Optima as our starting/boat batt, and take the two lead cells and put them in parallel for sounds... Thoughts?
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  #49  
Old 08-22-2014, 07:54 AM
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timvan timvan is offline
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The optima is not optimal for audio, at least not if you want it to play for long periods of time without running the alt.

Throw a pair of these in for just the stereo ( http://4xspower.com/shop/xp-series/xp3000/), isolated from the starting battery and you will play loud all day.


Quote:
Originally Posted by mobilecascade View Post
Also.... Had a question re: batteries.

I'll totally start a new thread since this is electrical, but going with this system I had a question. Apologize in advance for any etiquette fupa we are crossing...

When we were trying to figure out the charging issue, I swapped out one of the lead cells for a blue top optima. Right now I have the lead cell in "the hole", and have the Optima alongside running the sound. I used to get 4-5 hours of play time with the old lead cell and the AB amps... This last week we would get maybe 3 hours before the low batt alarm. Some one before mentioned that the lead cell might be better for the sub and related as it can take the sub "hit" better than the dry cell...

First is this true, and second, should we swap the Optima to the starting and lead for the sound? Or go back to all lead cell?

One idea was to put the Optima as our starting/boat batt, and take the two lead cells and put them in parallel for sounds... Thoughts?
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  #50  
Old 08-22-2014, 11:11 AM
bsloop bsloop is offline
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Sucks on storm blow. Sarcastically, what would one expect when low freeboard sterns are locked facing open water with large waves?
Notice none have a mooring cover that would have repelled much of the incoming wave water.......

As to the battery. Consider the amp hour rating on your former and current battery. The optima is not a dry cell battery but it does tend to perform slightly better on small, slow draws than a standard plate battery due to lead purity.
Rule is one battery per amp minimum; so it sounds like you need at least two batteries regardless (or big 4d / 8d). Running battery down to amp low voltage shut off significantly decreases battery life - need more batteries. Fully charge batteries via charger when returning to dock, alternator is not acceptable for full charge.
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