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  #11  
Old 05-28-2014, 08:17 PM
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David Analog David Analog is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WakeWise View Post
Excile Audio is another way to go. XM-9 x4 with a Harpoon amp to power them is around $2400. They remove at the end of the day and they even give you neoprene bags to carry them in. Also the pivot function works great for after the sports. I would send two facing the bow and two for the stern. Great sound close and out to 80 ft.

WakeWise
I would stay with Wetsounds and here is why.
The Exile XM9 is an 8", not a 9". Just the model number denotes '9'. The Wetsounds Rev8 sounds better with better construction, larger VC, better power handling, better midbass driver cone material, and a better horn flare. You can get the same quick disconnect and swivel functions as options with the Wetsounds Rev8 and better connectors (a high current 360 degree contact versus a minimal contact 1/4" phone jack).
The Exile Harpoon Class AB amplifier doesn't come close to spec and is lucky to produce 700 total watts @ a 2-ohm load. While that is sufficient power you can get that same power from the Class H Wetsounds Syn2 with a considerable improvement in efficiency.
In a package deal, try Odin with Earmark Marine, you might be in the same ball park price wise, but with superior Wetsounds gear.
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2014, 08:54 PM
rydog rydog is online now
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Quick note on the subwoofer situation. I was able to fit a 12" with sealed box behind the kickpanel. I have the same boat and did that last season. A little bit of work but I am glad I fit it.
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  #13  
Old 05-28-2014, 10:56 PM
mobilecascade mobilecascade is offline
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Ry... Did you make a box from MDF or do some epoxy/glass work?

David... Sounds pretty clear.. Syn2 or Syn4 on Rev10's?
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  #14  
Old 05-28-2014, 10:59 PM
mobilecascade mobilecascade is offline
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David... Thanks for the tip on "removables"...

Odin... Any thoughts?
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  #15  
Old 05-28-2014, 11:41 PM
mobilecascade mobilecascade is offline
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On boxes..... Like everyone starting out, we all ask questions....

Guy at work was trying to explain building a box, then using some plastic, set the box, then foaming, then pulling the box, then glassing/resin in a box, the pulling the foam/plastic out....

Sounds bombproof to H2O...

So given this hull and location... Is MDF not a great choice if after building I seal it up?

Also, what are your thoughts on putting in a second woofer coming out of the pass thru area from the drivers footwell? Like an IB/FA? Is there any gain?
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  #16  
Old 05-29-2014, 01:00 AM
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dvsone79 dvsone79 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobilecascade View Post
On boxes..... Like everyone starting out, we all ask questions....

Guy at work was trying to explain building a box, then using some plastic, set the box, then foaming, then pulling the box, then glassing/resin in a box, the pulling the foam/plastic out....

Sounds bombproof to H2O...

So given this hull and location... Is MDF not a great choice if after building I seal it up?

Also, what are your thoughts on putting in a second woofer coming out of the pass thru area from the drivers footwell? Like an IB/FA? Is there any gain?
They make a waterproof MDF that might be worth checking out. I used regular MDF and then waterproofed it. Spent more time than it should have, but it was an off-season project and I kind of enjoyed it. If you want to save time, definitely look into the waterproof stuff.
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  #17  
Old 05-29-2014, 01:36 AM
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swatguy swatguy is offline
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Thanks Yea I have been through the upgrades. You can easily fit a 12 in a sealed box behind your driver's kick panel. I have a 12inch Polk currently in mine. That is the recommended spot for the best performance. I can't wow you with specs but reading post after post from all the pro's over the years having two subs in different locations in a boat has diminishing returns in most cases. You're better off with a high quality single in that drivers foot area for the best performance.

Here's and old post of mine. My box is Mdf and was already built before I did this post so it's going on 9 years of being installed with 0 signs of wear, rot, or failure. The box sits up off the floor so it never really gets damp and sits wet. There is a lip on the 205v's/x1's/ Xstars that gives you about 1.5-2inches to play with. My sub slides in an out as an entire unit with ease. Here's an old post I had a while back. The later pages explain the sub box in more detail.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=23421
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  #18  
Old 05-29-2014, 09:16 AM
bcd bcd is offline
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Here's how I did mine. It was a 12" and I was able to make the box to recommended volume. I didn't do anything special to the MDF, although I probably should have. It seemed to hold up fine though. It's behind the kick panel and elevated.
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  #19  
Old 05-29-2014, 11:31 AM
rydog rydog is online now
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I did my install almost exactly like bcd. Elevated it off of the floor and made the box and stand as one unit. I actually bought a premade MDF box online, I plan on using that until it rots. Once it does all I have to do is simply swap it out with a nice waterproof material box (I was in a rush last summer to get it installed).

Also I just installed a 3rd amp, 3rd battery, shore charger, and WS-420SQ in my 02 Xstar. I will post up some pics on locations I used for everything.
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  #20  
Old 05-29-2014, 12:33 PM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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I just built a new sub box over the winter. I used mdf and put several coats of polyurethane on it. I did this on my old box, and it showed no signs of water damage after 3 years in the boat. I also store my boat in the garage and don't typically have a lot of water in it. I was able to get a 1.6 cubic foot box in there for a 15" solo baric L7. It encroaches 4 inches further in than the factory kickpanel. I need to find some better matching carpet for the trim panels.






Last edited by JRW160; 06-02-2014 at 03:58 PM.
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