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  #21  
Old 04-11-2014, 12:35 AM
Chrismath88 Chrismath88 is offline
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Looking good! Like many others I'm sure, I'm very interested to see how the motor upgrades workout. Have certainly thought about going down that road in the future.
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  #22  
Old 04-15-2014, 06:11 PM
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Well been busy with work and crawfish boils the past few days and finally getting back to the project (I got held up the other night because I had to get a Alan wrench I could cut to fit the exhaust) I took the seat out to work on the slider and to also give me some more room to work with. I noticed all but 1 of the screws holding the seat in were not tight and wouldn't bite the fiberglass is worn underneath any tricks to fix this issue? Options I considered are moving the seat over an inch or so or trying to fill the holes with some type of filler.
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  #23  
Old 04-15-2014, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Jc5229 View Post
Well been busy with work and crawfish boils the past few days and finally getting back to the project (I got held up the other night because I had to get a Alan wrench I could cut to fit the exhaust) I took the seat out to work on the slider and to also give me some more room to work with. I noticed all but 1 of the screws holding the seat in were not tight and wouldn't bite the fiberglass is worn underneath any tricks to fix this issue? Options I considered are moving the seat over an inch or so or trying to fill the holes with some type of filler.
I had the same problem with my '89. I made a polyester and glass cloth mixture to fill the holes. Then I sprayed a little WD-40 onto the screws and threaded them into the holes and let everything set. I backed the screws out and reinstalled the seat. Worked great.
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  #24  
Old 04-15-2014, 11:18 PM
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j.mccreight@hotmail.com j.mccreight@hotmail.com is offline
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I read on another thread today about clear coating valve covers and intake manifold to help with corrosion on the aluminum. Has anybody ever done this if so did you worry about over spray or did you tape everything off and also what kind of clear coat did you use?
This is absolutely true, I first installed the same valve covers you bought and a weiand intake didn't treat either, after a few weeks the bare aluminum started to dull and corrode, fresh water only and stored inside my garage, so I then sanded off the ugly and painted the intake black(I did remove it to do this) and then changed the valve covers to a complete different design and had them clear coated from my painter...

You should be able to just bolt the heads on, all the valve-train is the same as what your taking off, barring they don't need a valve job, the springs on the p heads are ok for a stock camshaft, if you decide to upgrade the camshaft the valve springs MUST be changed also...
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  #25  
Old 04-16-2014, 12:30 AM
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I had the same problem with my '89. I made a polyester and glass cloth mixture to fill the holes. Then I sprayed a little WD-40 onto the screws and threaded them into the holes and let everything set. I backed the screws out and reinstalled the seat. Worked great.
I might have to try that I figured that was the best plan just didn't know what would be best it'll help now that the slider is working it'll hopefully take less stress from me trying to squeeze in and out.
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  #26  
Old 04-16-2014, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
This is absolutely true, I first installed the same valve covers you bought and a weiand intake didn't treat either, after a few weeks the bare aluminum started to dull and corrode, fresh water only and stored inside my garage, so I then sanded off the ugly and painted the intake black(I did remove it to do this) and then changed the valve covers to a complete different design and had them clear coated from my painter...

You should be able to just bolt the heads on, all the valve-train is the same as what your taking off, barring they don't need a valve job, the springs on the p heads are ok for a stock camshaft, if you decide to upgrade the camshaft the valve springs MUST be changed also...
Ok that's good to know they have some clear coat in a can I can get at autozone I may try it. And I already had the valve job done just to be sure. One thing I have thought about I'm down to the main block with pistons exposed etc some excess water from the manifolds got down on too of the pistons I soaked it out as quick as possible and sprayed with wd40 besides prepping the surface for the gasket anything else I should do while at this point? I'd also like to clean the rest of the motor it has a lot of debris from belt wear any good advice on cleaning it up?
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  #27  
Old 04-16-2014, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
This is absolutely true, I first installed the same valve covers you bought and a weiand intake didn't treat either, after a few weeks the bare aluminum started to dull and corrode, fresh water only and stored inside my garage, so I then sanded off the ugly and painted the intake black(I did remove it to do this) and then changed the valve covers to a complete different design and had them clear coated from my painter...
I haven't had any problem with the brushed aluminum fins on that style of valve cover. And, I'm not sure what the wrinkle finish would look like with a clear topcoat. Maybe, an occasional wipe with some WD-40 or something like it would do the job.
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  #28  
Old 04-16-2014, 09:41 PM
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Oh ok that looks great!

Well I got my risers apart and upon looking at the inside they are of course rusty and scaling but I was wondering if there is any solution to fix this for the time being? Clean them in a parts cleaner? I saw someone say something about muratic acid? Might try and replace them next year it'll be hard to fit in the budget right now though.
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  #29  
Old 04-16-2014, 09:46 PM
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Oh ok that looks great!

Well I got my risers apart and upon looking at the inside they are of course rusty and scaling but I was wondering if there is any solution to fix this for the time being? Clean them in a parts cleaner? I saw someone say something about muratic acid? Might try and replace them next year it'll be hard to fit in the budget right now though.
Mikeg has used http://www.evapo-rust.com/ personally I would take them to the machine shop and have them boiled.
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  #30  
Old 04-16-2014, 10:03 PM
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Mikeg has used http://www.evapo-rust.com/ personally I would take them to the machine shop and have them boiled.
I forgot about evaporust I've used it before it's pretty good stuff.
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