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  #51  
Old 04-16-2014, 01:29 AM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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You could fill the entire cylinder up with water and soak it up with towels. It can't get into the crank case unless there is a problem with the rotating assembly. Soaking up the spill and wd40 is how I would clean it.

Note a bare block will rust over night. What you did with the wd40 was correct.

Cover the engine with an old beach towel. This will prevent anything foreign dropping in through the lifter valley or down in the oil passages under the intake. It will also prevent rust or anything crazy happening. Use a razor blade and use OCD and clean the mating surface on the block/head gasket area and block and intake area, same with the heads on block side and intake side. You want a clean mating surface. It is fine to use compressed air to blow out cylinders. If you have lots of carbon build up on top of the pistons then pour trans fluid in the cylinders and let set overnight. Nothing will enter crank case by passing by the rings.

Soak up all of the crap out of the cylinders. Dry it out and spray it down with brake cleaner real nice and soak up any pooled brake clean. Let every cylinder dry completely over a 2-3 min period. Take a clean shop towel and pour some oil on it. Wipe down the inside of all of the cylinders before putting heads on lightly. Install heads. Pour oil on lifters and pushrods before installing intake.

Yes the wiping oil on the cylinder walls will cause smoke on initial start up but it will be better than a non lubricated dry cylinder.

You are doing great and doing it correctly so far. No worries on the water


Note I would wd40 the clean mating surfaces if I were leaving it unattended overnight. It will rust without being lubricated and covered. Right before you install the mating gaskets then you can spray brake clean into a rag and clean the oil deposits off of the mating area. You want it oiled when apart and as close to surgical clean with brake clean before installing gaskets.

There is no need to spray the entire engine with wd40 just cylinder walls, mating surfaces. Try not to spray wd40 anywhere that will blend with oil such as lifters or cam area or under intake area but everywhere else should be fine.

Btw drain the oil and start fresh with new. I personally use mobile1 15w50. It has a ton of zinc in it and that is good for flat tappet cams like we have.
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Last edited by Kyle; 04-16-2014 at 01:40 AM.
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  #52  
Old 04-16-2014, 07:15 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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I would have no issue bolting on a top end package (H/C/I) to a stock bottom end if it looks to be in good health. I have done so many times and havent blown one up yet. The few extra revs we're talking about are not enough to break the bottom end of a 351w... its stout. When you break something, you get gunshy, so I dont blame Kyle for his conservative take on things, but doing the bottom end every time you touch the top is way overkill IMHO.

Adding p-heads will add 40-50hp over the stockers. An intake will get you a few more. So you'd be in the 300hp ballpark with just those upgrades. A better cam in the .500 lift range would bring the package together, 1.7 rockers with the stock cam would be the next best thing... and you'd be closer to the 325hp mark.

Too many people build ski boat engines with the misguided notion that "low end torque" is the goal. It is not. With the prop slip that these boats achieve, it is common to see an instant RPM of 2500-3000 (or slightly more) coming out of the hole. That is the equivalent of a high RPM stall converter in a car. A truck motor would need to have good off-idle (low RPM) power to get moving from a stand still... a boat does not. Build for mid to high RPM power and you'll end up with a lot better performance everywhere- down low included.
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  #53  
Old 04-16-2014, 08:48 AM
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Jc5229 Jc5229 is offline
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Thanks guys a lot of this stuff is very helpful and probably what I would've done either way. I'm used to working on four wheelers all the time that get dogged in the mud so while I am careful it's most likely they will tear up again I'm trying to be extra cautious since this boat is basically my child haha
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  #54  
Old 04-24-2014, 05:42 PM
fyrfytr33 fyrfytr33 is offline
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Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
Wow 275hp, it's not even worth changing the h/c/i for 25 hp. Me thinks your simulator is way wrong. Even the mustang guys with a 302, p heads and a similar f303 cam is about 330 hp at the crank, very common build...

Btw 112 lsa is the max I was told due to possible water reversion.

On your Howard camshaft did you retrofit the block to a roller?
That HP number does seem rather low. I may have misread the graph I was looking at. I was hoping to get over 300hp and in my dreams up to 350hp. But expectations often lead to disappointment. My '93 Prostar 190 came with a 351W, I think it was rated @285 HP. I was not looking to make the biggest HP numbers, I wanted to see big torque numbers in the idle to 4500 RPM range. And yes I went with a full roller block, lifters and rockers.
I am not the expert here, I respect all the knowledge on this site and use it for my benefit. I thank you all.
On that note can I PM some of you experts to find an obsolete part? I'm stuck on my project.
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  #55  
Old 04-25-2014, 08:37 PM
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Heads all painted up
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  #56  
Old 04-25-2014, 08:58 PM
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Heads all painted up
Love fresh blue paint!
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  #57  
Old 04-27-2014, 05:42 PM
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Coming along nicely just a few more bolts and a gasket to get and I'll be done
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  #58  
Old 04-27-2014, 06:17 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Coming along nicely just a few more bolts and a gasket to get and I'll be done
Looking good..............well, except for the toes.
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  #59  
Old 04-27-2014, 09:42 PM
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Looking good..............well, except for the toes.
Haha yea they've been around too much grease today! But got it done and got it running can't wait to hit the river tomorrow if the weather is right!
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  #60  
Old 04-27-2014, 09:43 PM
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Different angle
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