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  #21  
Old 04-07-2014, 05:16 PM
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markismm markismm is offline
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If you are asking for upgrade suggestions, I would also recommend going ahead and upgrading to an electronic distributor if you have not already done so. While your carb is perfectly fine, consider replacing the stock vacuum secondary with an adjustable one made by quick fuel products. When we made the intake and head upgrade you made, these two items made dialing the motor in a much easier task. Just my two cents, otherwise your upgrades will be plenty (except for the prop - which is the next best upgrade I ever made).
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2014, 07:59 PM
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I already have the electronic distributor but I don't have the vacuum secondary I might check on getting one unless my motor seems to be running good when I get all this on there. Im getting my boat tomorrow out of the shop and plan to have it on the water in the next week or two I need to get a few pulls in it's been too long.
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2014, 08:01 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Originally Posted by Jc5229 View Post
I already have the electronic distributor but I don't have the vacuum secondary I might check on getting one unless my motor seems to be running good when I get all this on there. Im getting my boat tomorrow out of the shop and plan to have it on the water in the next week or two I need to get a few pulls in it's been too long.
Always best to do upgrades one at a time. Saves trying to figure out which improvement caused what problem.
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  #24  
Old 04-07-2014, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Always best to do upgrades one at a time. Saves trying to figure out which improvement caused what problem.
Haha that's true I usually do that the only reason I will do the intake and heads in one is because it's just practical to do.
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  #25  
Old 04-09-2014, 06:36 PM
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Ok here are a few pics of the motor before I just cranked it up and let it run for a bit now I'm draining the oil and I'll begin the breakdown
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  #26  
Old 04-09-2014, 06:37 PM
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Again
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  #27  
Old 04-09-2014, 06:40 PM
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I also got my new valve covers in today and when I get the heads back I plan on painting them Ford blue. I considered painting the exhaust manifolds also while I'm at that point. Any thoughts on that I'm considering blue also but may go back with black
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  #28  
Old 04-10-2014, 10:58 AM
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One question I have for the gt40p heads again is which push rods were used the stock ones or different? Also same spark plugs or did you have to change that also?
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  #29  
Old 04-10-2014, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jc5229 View Post
One question I have for the gt40p heads again is which push rods were used the stock ones or different? Also same spark plugs or did you have to change that also?
same pushrods, rockers etc. as long as they are in good shape. the gt-40p will require a different spark plug, Autolite 764 is the plug for the p head, just cross reference to your liking...
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  #30  
Old 04-10-2014, 12:38 PM
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Let me be the first to warn you.... I speak from experience.

Do NOT run that engine hard until you put at least another 50 hours on it. Break in on a new motor is pretty fast. On that old motor I would baby her for at least a summer. The bottom end is not used to the higher performance parts and the compression change. A spun rod bearing can leave you replacing the entire engine.

When mine let go, my cam was in about 7 pieces, my distributor shaft was so bent that I had to use a 4' pry bar to get the distributor out of the block, the wrist pin on the rod twisted the bottom part of the piston off and shoved it up into the head bending the valves, the rod now rotating at 5,000 rpm beat the heck out of the cylinder walls cracking and scaring them, finally letting go with a big hole in the block where the deck and the oil pan meet about the size of your fist.

Oil was everywhere, I was speechless and ready for an entire bottle of tequila.

If you're on a budget just be real careful with the bottom end. Personally if I were you and if you were maxed out on the $$$ your boss lady will allow you to spend. Pull the engine, put new bearings and rings in it, and home it with a honing tool for a drill to clean up the walls. It would be prolly $100 more and yes extra time but you will be better off.

Ideally you would have the block line bored and new .030 pistons thrown in. $1200 ish

But that is just me.

I've done exactly what you're doing and lost my engine. Then had to build another from scratch.
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