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Old 03-29-2014, 11:04 PM
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CC2MC CC2MC is offline
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Wheel hub replacement

I was only about 6 miles into the 85 mile trip before I noticed the wheel starting to wobble. Fortunately, it remained intact and I did not lose a wheel and I was able to get to the side of the road safely. When i looked at the wheel, I noticed there were only three of the six lug bolts still attached. I did have to get it towed back home and in the process the trailer jack broke while unloading it from the tow truck, but I replaced that this morning.

I am in need of some part numbers for a hub replacement on my 2003 trailer. I know it is a 6 lug with 5.5" spacing, but can I go with any brand? I have the replacement part numbers for the bearings for the current hub, but will they be good with the replacement as well? Inner Bearing UFC-12, 25580 and outer bearing LM67048, CMC Seal 21334TC. TCM. I have also read about a few different oil baths but have no made up my mind on that yet. Is there anything else I should be paying attention to or possibly replacing? I called my local dealer and they have the Reliable assembly, which includes the hub, bearings and rotor for around $250, but I don't think I need the rotor, at least at that price.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:56 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Honestly I'd have a hard time buying or installing anything that came from Reliable after all the problems we've had with their products. Depending on budget I'd replace both sides with UFP. Call Pacific Trailer or Waymire and see what they quote you. An entire hub on Pacific Trailer's site is $50.
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Old 03-30-2014, 11:22 AM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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This is a drum brake setup, right?

You have the same bearings as mine; so I'm wondering if it is exactly the same. The hub/drum on mine is a UFP HD-1750; they're $150 or so to replace. However, is the drum broken, or did you just break the lugs? If it's just the lugs, they're easily and cheaply replaced. If you do replace the hub, get new bearings - they're cheap, and it's best to keep bearings/cups together as a pair. Find some good quality ones (you can buy Timken on Amazon).
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:59 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
Honestly I'd have a hard time buying or installing anything that came from Reliable after all the problems we've had with their products. Depending on budget I'd replace both sides with UFP. Call Pacific Trailer or Waymire and see what they quote you. An entire hub on Pacific Trailer's site is $50.
This ^ ^ ^..........each end of the axle

And for me, while I was there, I'd put disc brakes if that's your desire (or maybe you already have discs as you spoke of the rotor above)

I'd also stick with the grease-filled bearing and add Bearing Buddy to each hub (http://www.bearingbuddy.com/). Be sure and purchase the $2.50 bra cover for each unit. Makes for very clean-kept wheels.

As an alternate consideration; Timken is also common at auto parts stores. Last I remember the closed-face bearing was cheaper than the open face. Just flick off the cover... same bearing....those on Amazon are fairly inexpensive (spoken as a good buy).

a mere $0.02

.
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Old 03-30-2014, 02:44 PM
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drums on an 03? i have disks on my 02. without pics its hard to tell, but often the studs can be pressed out and new ones pressed in. when i did my MC trailer refurb last year, i bought several UFP parts from pacific and had a good experience. i ended up replacing all the seals for the oil baths, bearings, and replaced the entire actuator assembly. i also bought a trailer adapter for my power bleeder and it made flushing the system a snap.

i'd be a little worried about the spindles if you had wobble. a bearing may have gone out on you and that can scar up the spindle pretty quickly. even though it is more labor intensive, i'd replace the races with the bearings.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by jafo9 View Post
drums on an 03? i have disks on my 02. without pics its hard to tell, but often the studs can be pressed out and new ones pressed in. when i did my MC trailer refurb last year, i bought several UFP parts from pacific and had a good experience. i ended up replacing all the seals for the oil baths, bearings, and replaced the entire actuator assembly. i also bought a trailer adapter for my power bleeder and it made flushing the system a snap.

i'd be a little worried about the spindles if you had wobble. a bearing may have gone out on you and that can scar up the spindle pretty quickly. even though it is more labor intensive, i'd replace the races with the bearings.
I have disk brakes on my trailer. I will try to get some pics tonight. I thought about getting new studs pressed in but I am a little concerned about the remaining three studs as well. I know several people have not had a good experience with the Reliable oil bath hubs, but I like the oil bath better, even though the grease hubs are proven. There are several on here that are perfectly happy with their oil bath hubs, so I can hopefully just change brands and be good to go. Of course I will have to change out both sides, but at least I will know they are both in good shape. I am unfamiliar with the power bleeder but I will google it and see what that's all about.

That is a good point about the spindle too. I will check that out as well. Thanks for the responses so far. Hopefully I will have more info in a few hours.
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  #7  
Old 03-30-2014, 08:45 PM
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Wasn't the wobble from the wheel coming off due to the broken studs? I would check the hub for play and press six new studs in it and be good. Is there anything (other than the broken studs) that you can see wrong with the hub? I would take a good look at the wheel too. It could be in worse shape than the hub.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Table Rocker View Post
Wasn't the wobble from the wheel coming off due to the broken studs? I would check the hub for play and press six new studs in it and be good. Is there anything (other than the broken studs) that you can see wrong with the hub? I would take a good look at the wheel too. It could be in worse shape than the hub.
Man, there are just more and more things to consider. Y'all are getting me more worried. Here is a shot of the wheel that I took the other night.

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Old 03-30-2014, 09:13 PM
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With the wheel coming loose like that, there is a fair chance that your wheel may be shot. Take the wheel to a good tire shop and ask them to check the wheel. They can put it on their balance machine and determine it's fate.
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  #10  
Old 03-30-2014, 09:43 PM
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TOO-TALL TOO-TALL is offline
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Like mr mc said.... take the wheel and rim to shop have them balance and look for cracks....if hub and bearings are fine press out all the studs and replace with new.

trailer problems suck.
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