Go Back   TeamTalk > General MasterCraft Topics > General Discussion

Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Yesterday, 05:51 PM
Tayloray Tayloray is offline
TT Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2015
Boat: Mastercraft, Stars and Stripes, 1980, 351
Location: Southeast
Posts: 11
Cold Start Issues?

Hello all,

So I made a post not too long ago about my 1980 S&S.

It was my dad's, but he passed away about two weeks ago and left it to me. So I went to go out on it afterwards because I hadn't used it in a couple of months and wanted to do something he loved.

So to the point of the post. Initially, I wasn't getting anything from the ignition switch. No click, etc. Realized the starter solenoid was grounding out the main power supply. Swapped it out with a spare which turned out to be bad. Tested the old one again and it was working fine. Re-installed it and it wasn't grounding out anymore. Odd.

I had an issue with that white block that bolts just behind the ignition coil and has multiple leads to one side and then one to the other. It was grounding out the last time I took the bout out so I quick remedy zip tied it off to the side so it wasn't contacting metal and didn't have another issue(planned to fix this before the next outing but it was a spur of the moment thing), but i've noticed it gets very very hot. The wires and terminals are not but it is. Which I also found odd.

So despite these, it seemed to be working. It took quite a bit of time to get it started in my driveway but once it started it ran great. It's always taken awhile to start after it's been sitting for even a week.

So I take it to the river. dump it in, start it up, un-tie and go to throw it in reverse and it stalls. Starts again no problem stalls under load again. Which turned into a nightmare because now i'm floating towards the concrete launch with no power. After jumping to the dock and wrestling with it I go it back to the dock and it wouldn't start again.

Had to sink the trailer to float it on. Pulled it out of the water and used a buddies car to jump it as the battery was dying at this point, and I couldn't seem to get it to start.

Any ideas what could have cause all this? Typical tuneup needed maybe?

Sorry if this was all a jumbled mess, just typing it as a go.


Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 06:28 PM
mikeg205's Avatar
mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2011
Boat: 1995 Pro Star 205 5.7 Liter
Location: Plainfield - Joliet, IL
Posts: 13,941
Send a message via Skype™ to mikeg205
sounds like old gas issues and some corrosion ... IMO
...A bad day water skiing still beats a good day at work...1995 Pro Star 205....
Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 08:28 PM
thatsmrmastercraft's Avatar
thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
MC Master Poster
Join Date: Sep 2008
Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 16,943
You need to work through the basics of the ignition system first. Get a new ballast resistor - that's the white block that you had problems with grounding out.

Next install a new set of spark plugs and a distributor cap and rotor, along with a new set of points. If you don't have a dwell meter, either borrow or buy one so you have them set properly. Also check your timing as changes in the points affect the timing. All these parts are available through Napa. I don't have the part numbers handy, but I'm sure someone will. You will need to know how your distributor cap fastens. There are two styles. One uses screws that go directly into the distributor. the other style uses clips that hold it in place and also fastens with screws.

Clean all battery cable connections: battery positive, negative and solenoid connections. Don't forget the block ground. Use a wire brush and make sure they are all free of any corrosion.

Mike is correct about bad gas causing some of these problems. You may have to drain and flush the tank. Not a huge project.

Next look at your carburetor. The choke may not be set correctly causing hard start problems. When the engine is cold, the choke plate should be closing with light pressure. Once you turn the key on, the electric choke cap should open the choke fully within 60 - 90 seconds. If it doesn't open fully, you may need to adjust it by loosening the three screws and turning the choke cap slightly. Be sure that you have battery power to the cap with the key on, and a good ground.

Your idle speed should be about 825 RPM's in neutral, which would give you approximately 600 RPM's at idle in drive. Adjust accordingly.

You may also have a problem with the needle and seat in the carb. If it is leaking and letting some fuel through, you would end up with a rich condition which makes it hard to start. These carbs need to be rebuilt from time to time, and ethanol in the fuel tends to increase the frequency of rebuilding.

This should keep you busy for a bit. Be sure to work through the ignition components first, but you might check that choke setting initially.

Don't hesitate to ask any questions regarding doing this work. We can walk you through all this if need be. Have no fear, this should be a relatively simple matter to get your boat purring like a kitten............until you crack the throttle open to make it roar.




Originally Posted by Bouyhead View Post
Installed my carb that was rebuilt by thatsmrmastsercraft, Thanks Peter!! Hot or cold this boat starts and runs like it fuel injected.
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:19 AM.