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  #21  
Old 03-04-2014, 11:27 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Originally Posted by ktrusty View Post
Mike, I'd have to say mainly for enjoyment, we all love the water.

I usually don't wear jeans on the water, but we were taking engagement photos.
Attachment 106945
that is an awesome picture.. the vinyl will be more than enough... focus on that bride to be...
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  #22  
Old 03-04-2014, 11:51 PM
Towboatcapt Towboatcapt is offline
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Great looking picture, beautiful boat, Dog, and Mrs.
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  #23  
Old 03-05-2014, 08:26 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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I would not go to the trouble and expense of installing vinyl. If you dont care to have a show boat finish, then just use it as-is.

If you want to try a proper repair, then it would be helpful to know how the boat was built in the first place. I believe the color and metal flake are contained in the same gelcoat layer. I dont know if there are additional color layers below the flake. On top, there is some sort of clear... some say it is paint, but my guess is that it's gel. Perhaps someone with some MC-specific experience can comment on how the factory laid the color on.

Since you have exposed flake, then the clear over the top needs to be reshot. If you also have some oxidation and/or color fade in the stripe that youre trying to fix, then sanding further would be required. How deep the fade and oxidation extends will determine what it will require to bring the look back once youre done sanding.

Good luck!
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  #24  
Old 03-05-2014, 11:47 AM
gtbutler gtbutler is offline
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+!1 on TRBenj and mikeg205!

From my "old school" days and methodologies with regards to metal flake (I remember shooting clear lacquers using a siphon gun and I was well into my teen's when the first owner put your S&S in the water for he first time) the process went as follows:

Metalflake 101
1. Shoot the basecoat color
2. While the last colorcoat was still wet shoot the metal flake (you are actually attempting to get the metal flakes to "stand on end" vs. "laying flat" by manipulating the air pressure on the gun, remember you're going for 3-D).
3. Follow with Clear coats

The whole process was to give the paint "depth" and a 3-D look and feel. Literally need "paint thickness" that provides refraction to the light as it travels through the layers of the paint and reflects off the metal flake.

All that being said, you don't want to sand those "exposed flakes." Yes, you may be removing some oxidation (since TRBenj is probably correct in saying they had the color and flake in the same gelcoat and there is no clearcoat) but sanding will also be "dulling" the metal flakes and they will loose some "luster."
To bring the "finish" back to life, I'd clearcoat it. Today's finishes are really nice, and they make some REALLY nice clearcoats. Clearcoating may also "smooth" the surface a little, should you choose to decal the boat at a future date.
To prep the boat, the MOST IMPORTANT thing is that the surface is clean! Remove all wax and oils by using Prepsol, Pre-Kleano, etc. (your Automotive Paint Supply store will have this), you wipe the stuff on and wipe it off . Use clean papertowels for each wipe on and wipe off, plain white paper towels with nothing on them (no ink, no hand softner, etc), summon your inner MCOCD here, you want the surface clean. Then wet sand with 400 grit or higher (you are only sanding to prep the surface for the clearcoat to "adhere" to). Then clean it again with Prepsol/Pre-Kleano. You clean it first, since sanding will actually "push" the oils/waxes into the surface. You clean it after sanding since you need it clean prior to clearcoating.
Remeber, most "multi-stage" paints (base coat/clear coat, pearls, etc) the base coat of paint is actually dull or flat. It is the multiple clearcoats that bring the paint to life...
Clearcoat the metalflake and that boat will look GREAT.

Just my $.02 ....
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  #25  
Old 03-05-2014, 12:09 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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It sounds like your experience is with auto finishes? A boat would have been sprayed in reverse (clear-metalflake-color) as the mold is finished from the outside in.

If he cant safely sand off the oxidation or fade without ruining the metal flake (this is how you restore "normal" gel), then he may be stuck. I assume his intention was to restore the original color and finish as close as possible, and judging by the different color hidden below the decals, it'll take a bit of sanding to get there. Clear coating, whether gel or paint, over the existing stripe will only restore shine, not color.
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  #26  
Old 03-05-2014, 12:42 PM
gtbutler gtbutler is offline
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TR. I've done much more auto than boat. And you are 100% correct about the boat molding process (you did remind me of that, brainf@rt on my part).
My point about the sanding was that you attemp to remove/damage as little of the metal flake as possible during the "restoration" process (where ever the metalflake resides in the existing finish, just try not to damage it) . Again, you're 100% "spot on" about the fade (the sun is going to "make" its own custom colors over time). Clearcoating will restore the shine, and may bring that metalflake new life . I was assuming he was going for shine and that new decals would cover the faded areas.
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  #27  
Old 03-05-2014, 01:56 PM
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ktrusty ktrusty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRBenj View Post
I assume his intention was to restore the original color and finish as close as possible, and judging by the different color hidden below the decals, it'll take a bit of sanding to get there. Clear coating, whether gel or paint, over the existing stripe will only restore shine, not color.
Tanks TRBenj that is the logic I was looking for. Everything I have read on other sites only discuss how to spray clearcoat on metal flake. There doesn't seem to be a discussion on getting the right color, and then spraying clearcoat. My hope is this week to take it to a fiberglass repair shop and see what they recommend. Eventually I will redo the entire gel coat, but my budget isn't that high yet. The past repairs have all been to get the darn thing running, but now I have turned to cosmetic issues.
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  #28  
Old 03-05-2014, 02:28 PM
eriksen4 eriksen4 is offline
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I had a 18' Baja with blue metal flake that was doing the same thing as yours. I taped off and my neighbor (skilled in auto painting) sprayed it with two coats of clear and it was unbelievable. Sold the boat two years later for my first inboard (SN2001) at it was still holding strong.
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  #29  
Old 03-05-2014, 04:53 PM
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ktrusty ktrusty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtbutler View Post
My point about the sanding was that you attemp to remove/damage as little of the metal flake as possible during the "restoration" process. I was assuming he was going for shine and that new decals would cover the faded areas.
gt, I really like the walk through you gave. I think moving forward, I will try a section and see if I can coax some life out of it. The new decals will go over the dark blue areas. I stripped the boat with the intention of getting new decals, and the cracks and chips fixed. (Originally it also included the more typical clearcoat oxidation repair, but that is going to be difficult with the state the flake is in now.) I don't want to give up completely on it, but I also want a finished result that will last. When I bought the boat I had to get it running again, then I proposed to my fiance in it, and taught her how to run the course using it. Needless to say, I plan on keeping it.

Eventually when I have some money, I can get the whole gel redone, but for now I'm looking at salvaging (if possible) what I have. If this weekend I can't get any good results, I may wrap it for now and come back to it. Mike can attest that I like things to be just right, and won't let it go until they are!
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  #30  
Old 03-05-2014, 07:22 PM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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In that case, I dont think I would spray any type of clear over the gel in an attempt at a quick fix. Throw some new decals on it and keep a generous coat of wax on it at all times, and it shouldnt deteriorate any further.

When youre ready to spend the time and money to fix it for real, then sand until the fade and oxidation is gone. If that damages the metal flake, then have it resprayed (in gel) and then clear coated like it originally was from the factory- probably gel as well.

At least that's what I'd do if the boat were mine, and I planned on keeping it!
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