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Old 02-02-2014, 10:00 PM
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tdjaster tdjaster is offline
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Brakes and bearings

I'll be servicing my '03 trailer over the next few weeks. I have a few questions that I'd love some help with.

#1. I need to replace the brake pads, I've done that before and it was relatively simple. Should I do anything else with the brake lines, rotors, etc.?
#2. What about these bearings? Should I do anything with them? I greased the bearings on my old trailer but that was several years older and didn't look anything like these.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Old 02-02-2014, 10:15 PM
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j.mccreight@hotmail.com j.mccreight@hotmail.com is offline
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I would definitely resurface those rotors, heat marks all over, service the bearings, and replace the brake fluid.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
I would definitely resurface those rotors, heat marks all over, service the bearings, and replace the brake fluid.
I'm good on knowing how to resurface the rotors but how will I go about doing the bearings and brake fluid?

Thanks!
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:26 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdjaster View Post
I'm good on knowing how to resurface the rotors but how will I go about doing the bearings and brake fluid?

Thanks!
berarings: pull the hub to access the bearings - front and rear set with new rear seal

Fluid - drain or extract. The fluid reservoir is in the tongue of the trailer / bleed the lines after refill

http://caltrailerworks.com/online/product.php?productid=16305&cat=359&page=1
Check for kits that often can be more time/labor efficient with kits for replacement in lieu of rebuild

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  #5  
Old 02-03-2014, 11:25 AM
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I've heard of people having issues with water intrusion after replacing the seals on those oil bath bearings. I decided not to change the seals on mine and just drained and refilled the oil in them. There should be one or two screws on the hub to drain the oil in them. I refilled mine with 75w-90.
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:18 PM
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If everything is original the first thing I would look at is the calipers and make sure they're not dragging. 03 was a very bad year for Reliable (the manufacture of all the brake components for your trailer). They had a recall on the calipers for dragging and those rotors look like they got hot at some point. At a minimum I would pull them off, clean everything and grease the slides, replace the caliper hardware and pads.

Next would be the actuator assembly. Yes they fail too. There is a shock in the assembly that should be checked as well as the condition of the fluid and functionality of the master cylinder itself. If you have water in the brake fluid chances are you're going to have issues with the calipers and later the master cylinder (if you don't already). If it looks good still flush and bleed it all. I like to use the full synthetic from Valvoline as it tends not to wick the water as much as straight brake fluid.

Assuming you've made it this far without having to replace anything you've done well indeed. If you want to go the extra yard then pulling apart the hubs and checking the condition of the bearings and races would be the way to go. If there is no water in the oil chances are good that the bearings/races are fine. There are two allen screws on the hub, take them out and turn the hub so all the oil drains out then refill. I bought some bearing specific oil from Kodiak which is the company that Reliable used to source the replacement calipers they sent me on my warranty claim. There are several posts with alternatives to use but I went with with the stuff that was recommended by the manufacture. At that time they also sent me all the internal parts to the actuator which I rebuilt. Reliable knew they were having problems and went out of business a few months after I made my claim.

You should be able to find a lot of information on all the components for your trailer here. Hopefully your actuator is in good shape but if it isn't you're in luck has a UFP replacement and is now available for retrofit.

Good luck with your project.
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Old 02-03-2014, 06:34 PM
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I only remember there being one allen head screw on the hub to drain the oil. The warmer the oil is, the easier it is to drain/fill. You can heat the new oil up in the microwave to help with the flow. Don't heat it for too long, but just enough to get it warm. Changing the fluid is very easy. If your fluid appears cloudy, then you may have had some water intrusion and you may need to go a step further and inspect the bearings. Good luck.
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2014, 08:41 PM
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Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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Don't mean to threadjack, but. . .

I just changed my hub oil this weekend (Reliable), and inadvertantly overfilled. There is still "air" at the top of the sight glass bit oil level is well above the top edge of the logo. Any risks with overfilling?
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:37 PM
uplander uplander is offline
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When you take your boat out for the first time your oil level will drop in the site glass. I found purchasing a small oil can with a little hand pump is the best way to fill the hub back up. Make sure you are using the correct viscosity of oil, not all the hubs are the same. I got lucky and had the original paperwork with my trailer. Also make sure you are purchasing a quality seal, I located a bearing supplier and called them.
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Old 02-03-2014, 09:41 PM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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My hub only had one screw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kweisner View Post
Don't mean to threadjack, but. . .

I just changed my hub oil this weekend (Reliable), and inadvertantly overfilled. There is still "air" at the top of the sight glass bit oil level is well above the top edge of the logo. Any risks with overfilling?

I have my hubs about 3/4 full. There was a change that said to fill the hubs completely at some point. There is some informaton in this thread
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=53334
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