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  #31  
Old 01-28-2014, 10:36 AM
bsloop bsloop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traxx822 View Post
I do like the idea of possibly doing some embossed (correct me if thats not the term) acrylic with MC logo and such to fill the hole.

I do not want 12" subs in my walkthrough. I like my windshield.

But I do prefer a tighter speaker/sound. Its just when i'm not in the boat I want more bass sound. Or when my DB friend wants to turn up his type R's.
Durability is a must.Here is my main factors:

1: my windshield will stay in one piece from the bass vibrations.
2: It will stand any elements of weather, like rain/snow/ice/salt/sun/heat etc.
3: I do not want to lose the amazing clarity I enjoy from my cockpit speakers.
4: I want to have minimum amount of batteries
5: My amps have to fit under the observer.

I kinda like the acrylic LED light hole plug idea. If a 12" sub that was made to last could be installed and I be satisfied I'll sell both amps and subs and start over on all parts but tower and cockpit speakers.
If I was to go with a 12" sub, what are my options for amps and sub that you would recommend. My installer can make any box and get any JL/wetsounds/memphis. And even though it may seem I am brand brainwashed. I am not. On my first set up it just worked out that way.
The acrylic is etched. Cool kids with intricate designs and want 3d depth can use a laser.
Something as simple as MC logo. Have a window sticker cut in reverse with the logo "hollow", scuff with super fine sand paper and peel the sticker off. They lit my buddy's a little different but here is a link with some ideas.
http://youtu.be/SaG-NQ64540

The sub enclosure would go under the drivers console, firing toward your knees; no walk thru clutter or hole. I have seen plenty of wake board installs but here is a recent vid from another forum showing a manufactured slot port, coated box from Atrend. Sealed is even smaller.
http://webpages.charter.net/3dpilot/...20Part%201.wmv (mute the audio, this is a 20' Baja)
Using an enclosure separate from the dash structure should not significantly rattle the dash or cause problems.

David must have some better install pics or even your installer?

I still think a single 12" is what you are looking for. You mention you want the sound to carry outside the boat. 10" will have a tough time with that. There is something about larger surface area subs that carry sound better.
Think about a car booming down the street, those are not 10", those are 12 and 15. You could load a car with 10 and it would not sound the same. I ran 4 10" sealed on my boat at one point, then switch to 2 15" ported. The difference is HUGE.

I understand you want tight and I guarantee a JL brand sub or amp in combo will do that. Marine is NOT necessary for a sealed box under the dash. The sub brands being considered will all stand up to the task.
A sealed enclosure, JL 12w6 sub and amp is unnecessarily tight in an open air boat (vehicle, ok), IMO.
I would recommend 12" RF P3 or T1 with JL M600 or MH750 for your tastes. (sorry not familiar enough with Memphis given your specific tastes. Might have your installer hook up that combo, OUTSIDE or even set a sealed box in the boat to test sound)

After 2 more years, you will be looking for more but lets take this in baby steps. Another reason for a separate amp.
IF I cant talk you out of a JL sub, have them build the box 2 cu ft with 1" board. That way, when you want to step up to the 13w7, all they have to do is cut the hole larger and add a more powerful amp
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  #32  
Old 02-08-2014, 06:14 PM
supreme112279 supreme112279 is online now
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Pic of one on my subs in eh engine compartment as requested. The other one is on the other side
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  #33  
Old 02-09-2014, 08:56 AM
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Traxx822 Traxx822 is offline
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Originally Posted by supreme112279 View Post
Pic of one on my subs in eh engine compartment as requested. The other one is on the other side
Thats not going to fit in my boat with plumbed 750# sacs in there

I bet that $#(^ bumps though
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  #34  
Old 02-09-2014, 12:14 PM
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Tristarboarder Tristarboarder is offline
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^ Nice. I bet with that and the other 2 subs, you kill fish!
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  #35  
Old 02-10-2014, 11:47 AM
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JRW160 JRW160 is offline
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I'm not trying to be negative, but every time I've heard subs in the vdrive hatches beside the engine, they seem to just vibrate the whole boat and not really put out much sound. Even if I didn't have all that space taken up with sacs, I don't think I would ever put subs back there.
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Last edited by JRW160; 02-10-2014 at 01:42 PM.
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  #36  
Old 02-10-2014, 12:16 PM
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craig3972 craig3972 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRW160 View Post
I'm not trying to be negative, but every time I've heard subs in the vdrive hatches beside the engine, they seem to just vibrate the whole boat and not really put out much sound. Even if I didn't have all that space taken up with sac, I don't think I would ever put subs back there.
gotta open up the hatches or remove the seat cushions to let the sound out - but yeah boat shakers
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  #37  
Old 02-10-2014, 12:49 PM
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David Analog David Analog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRW160 View Post
I'm not trying to be negative, but every time I've heard subs in the vdrive hatches beside the engine, they seem to just vibrate the whole boat and not really put out much sound. Even if I didn't have all that space taken up with sac, I don't think I would ever put subs back there.
I totally agree with this statement. The rear bulhead and rear sun pads are specifically designed to attenuate engine noise. So the woofer(s) and sub amplifier have to work at least four times harder to produce the same output = not clean. It makes for a great tactile boat shaker but a poor bass music maker. Nothing with any pitch definition is going to come out of those rear lockers. The phase delay coming off those woofers contained in the rear lockers is way more than the distance would imply and has no chance of any coherency with any other subs in the boat, or meshing with the midbass for that matter. It will improve in output with the compartments open for when you are playing the system at rest.
Those particular Kicker woofers aren't known for articulation (too much moving mass and too much VC inductance) but if you want something to rattle you bones to the core in this particular scheme, those are the right woofers for the job.
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