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  #21  
Old 01-27-2014, 01:36 PM
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craig3972 craig3972 is offline
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I run two of the JL M10w5subs, I put a sealed box in behind each one as they are direct radiating (mounted in the cabin area). I have a JL M750/1 driving them both in series and they work really good. I blew one up last summer and had to use the spare M10IBw5 that originally came with the boat in a pinch and it sounded fine. If you are looking to save money I would just build a sealed box around the backside of that IB and put 250-300 watts to it to see if you like it. if you do then you dont have to make any more holes in your boat - it is supprising what the sealed box will do for that sub.

The 12" under the helm in the kick panel is one of the best spots cause you dont have to cut up any nice gel coat (usually) to put it there and there is usually lots of room. The only problem I have with that location is that the vibrations from a powerful sub can translate into the gauge cluster. I have had to get under there and put back a few screws.

I would try to keep the sub direct radiating (so you can see the cone of the driver), its easy/cheaper - Sorry David!

Last edited by craig3972; 01-27-2014 at 01:57 PM.
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  #22  
Old 01-27-2014, 04:52 PM
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David Analog David Analog is offline
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Craig,
If starting from scratch, I totally agree that a bass-reflex and direct-radiating 12-inch sub under the driver's helm would be the ideal performance and cost-effective route. But, the OP seems to be hell bent on using the two 10-inch IB subs that he already owns. Plus, he has to deal with an existing large hole cut in the port side pass-through.

The JL Audio HD750/1 is strictly regulated but does not apply above a 4-ohm load. So you are definitely losing some power running two 4-ohm subs in series. Is that intentional?
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  #23  
Old 01-27-2014, 05:45 PM
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craig3972 craig3972 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Analog View Post
Craig,
If starting from scratch, I totally agree that a bass-reflex and direct-radiating 12-inch sub under the driver's helm would be the ideal performance and cost-effective route. But, the OP seems to be hell bent on using the two 10-inch IB subs that he already owns. Plus, he has to deal with an existing large hole cut in the port side pass-through.

The JL Audio HD750/1 is strictly regulated but does not apply above a 4-ohm load. So you are definitely losing some power running two 4-ohm subs in series. Is that intentional?
my mistake - should have said parallel.

I see a lot of these mastercraft owners that just want a bit more bass, The OEM IB has poor performance with the OEM install but will work well with a small sealed enclosure in that location. I guess it is a bit of work to get an enclosure to fit properly behind an OEM sub/location but at least you dont have to spend any money on new subs, just amps - and you dont have to fill the hole if you take it out. The JL grill is pretty tough and can accept kicks from feet without being damaged/dented and the cone and surround are good against water. My only con for that sub is that its not a 12".
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  #24  
Old 01-27-2014, 06:54 PM
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David Analog David Analog is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craig3972 View Post
my mistake - should have said parallel.

I see a lot of these mastercraft owners that just want a bit more bass, The OEM IB has poor performance with the OEM install but will work well with a small sealed enclosure in that location. I guess it is a bit of work to get an enclosure to fit properly behind an OEM sub/location but at least you dont have to spend any money on new subs, just amps - and you dont have to fill the hole if you take it out. The JL grill is pretty tough and can accept kicks from feet without being damaged/dented and the cone and surround are good against water. My only con for that sub is that its not a 12".
Well, that sub is coming from JL Audio and it will be a beast. Sometime later this year, JL Audio will ship a 12-inch infinite baffle marine subwoofer with a massive motor structure and a 4-inch voice coil.
There is no acoustic principle that keeps an infinite baffle woofer from performing well. Yet, you rarely see an IB application executed properly. Most people's disappointment with IB is the fact that the woofer is under-powered, or the baffle isn't as rigid as a quality enclosure, or the crossover is wrong, or the woofer really isn't fully isolated front to rear, in other words....poor execution.
As stated previously, you do NOT want to place a true IB woofer in a small enclosure. It will not play low and will ring midbass like a bell.
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  #25  
Old 01-27-2014, 08:25 PM
supreme112279 supreme112279 is offline
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You guys wanting to see my subs in the engine compartment. One thing you should know is I don't have bags back there

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  #26  
Old 01-27-2014, 10:44 PM
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Traxx822 Traxx822 is online now
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Thanks for all the responses and I'm not going to direct any responses because there is just too many. But i'm going to try to respond.

I do like the idea of possibly doing some embossed (correct me if thats not the term) acrylic with MC logo and such to fill the hole.

The main reason I was "hell bent" on using the IB5's are because of the hole. I already built an enclosure around the 7.7 from this forums help. I do not want 12" subs in my walkthrough. I like my windshield.

I understand the sale of my two existing amps will not cover the cost of the added amps. As far my boat goes, money is not in most equations. Certainly not when it comes to my stereo.

I don't want the biggest baddest you have ever seen. I want the clarity I already have with just a tad more bass. NOT a ton more a tad more.

My current sub is maxed out I believe. It has 300 watts @ 2ohm going to it. (again correct me if i'm wrong)

I do use the bass control on my WS420. My sub does play deep bass when in the boat. Enough to make you feel it. But I do prefer a tighter speaker/sound. Its just when i'm not in the boat I want more bass sound. Or when my DB friend wants to turn up his type R's.

Another thing. The attached photo is my boat as it sits today. Like I said. Harshest conditions imaginable. Durability is a must. And don't freak out my local friends who may see this picture. We put it back inside today before the next polar vortex comes.

I came to the forum with this question so I could get ideas. and I am getting them so thank you.

Here is my main factors:

1: my windshield will stay in one piece from the bass vibrations.
2: It will stand any elements of weather, like rain/snow/ice/salt/sun/heat etc.
3: I do not want to lose the amazing clarity I enjoy from my cockpit speakers.
4: I want to have minimum amount of batteries
5: My amps have to fit under the observer.

I kinda like the acrylic LED light hole plug idea. If a 12" sub that was made to last could be installed and I be satisfied I'll sell both amps and subs and start over on all parts but tower and cockpit speakers.

I especially liked the idea of using the two IB5's and running a vent whathave you but thats not happening. But thats the creativity I like about this forum!!

If I was to go with a 12" sub, what are my options for amps and sub that you would recommend. My installer can make any box and get any JL/wetsounds/memphis. And even though it may seem I am brand brainwashed. I am not. On my first set up it just worked out that way.
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  #27  
Old 01-27-2014, 11:54 PM
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Tristarboarder Tristarboarder is offline
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Traxx, here are my .02. I think we might be in the same boat. Not a lot of overwhelming bass, but enough when desired. I didn't want woofers all over in every corner, I wanted more of a simple look that performs when called upon. Since $ isn't an option, and I know that you prefer JL (great stuff, agreed)
Under the helm, driver's side

JL 12W6 powered with a single JL HD750/1
or
JL 13W7 powered with a single JL HD1200/1

Both proven performance, great sound, Amps have great efficiency, full rated power, small footprint

Control the output with the already installed WS420

Simply cover the holes in the walk through or do your other embossed idea
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  #28  
Old 01-28-2014, 08:06 AM
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imyourmaster imyourmaster is online now
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Traxx.... Patience is a virtue my friend. Wait for JL to release the 12" marine sub later this year and be done with it. Instant gratification is more often than not short lived. Sounds like you want a sub which will handle the elements and is quality bar none... The choice is simple.
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  #29  
Old 01-28-2014, 10:01 AM
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Traxx822 Traxx822 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imyourmaster View Post
Traxx.... Patience is a virtue my friend. Wait for JL to release the 12" marine sub later this year and be done with it. Instant gratification is more often than not short lived. Sounds like you want a sub which will handle the elements and is quality bar none... The choice is simple.
I had no idea the 12 was coming out. I saw it mentioned in this thread but I didn't know it was JL or marine grade.

I would possibly stick that in the walk through and just get anew amp to power it and sell the two subs I have now. I am nervous about putting a 12 under my windshield though. But with the WS420 I should be able to control it.

Anyone know what amp would best power the new 12?
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  #30  
Old 01-28-2014, 10:05 AM
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Traxx822 Traxx822 is online now
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update, A 12 wont fit in the walk through. So its either the two IB5's or the cover plate acrylic and a 12 under the helm. I'm leaning towards the acrylic cover and the sub under the helm.

From everything I have read, Sub install under the drivers console is the best location for interior sound.

I could also just as easily fix the fiberglass and just have my upholsterer redo that side. Might be cheaper and not as hokey as the acrylic cover. I'd have to see a few design ideas first.

Any other votes to wait for the new 12" marine JL? Any ideas of when its coming out?
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