Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > General / Other

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-14-2014, 12:09 AM
CC2MC's Avatar
CC2MC CC2MC is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Boat: 2003 Maristar 210 Predator
Location: Alabama
Posts: 960
Removing exhaust hose

I have loosened up the exhaust hose clamps and have popped them loose from the muffler and exhaust tips. My problem is that I cannot pull the hose down far enough to get over the end of either the muffler or the tips. I am guessing that I may have to pull the tips off first, as I have to do that anyway and remember reading about heating it up and using a piano wire. I tried some fishing line but the tip is so tight on the transom, I couldn't get between it and the tip. If I could get the hose off, then I could push that from the inside out, but I can't get the hose off. BTW, the hoses are in a 90 degree angle and fairly stiff, so I can only move them maybe a half inch at most and I probably need to go 3" or so.

I was thinking this would be fairly straight forward, but it is not as easy as I thought.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-14-2014, 09:11 AM
east tx skier's Avatar
east tx skier east tx skier is offline
MC Hero
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Boat: 1998 Ski Nautique
Location: End of my rope.
Posts: 25,023
Dumb question, but do they need to come out in one piece? Why are you pulling your exhaust hose?
__________________
Previous: 1993 Prostar 205

Red 1998 Closed Bow Ski Boat, Ford 351, 310 hp, Acme 4 blade, Perfect Pass SG.

FAQ


Tyler Ski Club


To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-14-2014, 10:53 AM
Laurel_Lake_Skier's Avatar
Laurel_Lake_Skier Laurel_Lake_Skier is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 1991 ProStar 190
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 835
Send a message via Skype™ to Laurel_Lake_Skier
Quote:
Originally Posted by CC2MC View Post
I was thinking this would be fairly straight forward, but it is not as easy as I thought.
I had the same issue a year ago when I pulled mine to put stainless tips on. You'll need to get pretty aggressive with the hoses and they will eventually pop loose. Taking out the rear seat and floor panel all the way back along will be necessary - but you've likely already done that if you have the clamps off both ends. Then just make sure the hoses are not attached to anything (hold down brackets, zip tied to vent hoses, fuel lines or wiring) and pull on the exhaust hose while cranking them back and forth/up and down. Brace yourself so you don't fall backwards when they finally break free.
__________________
1991 ProStar 190—Acme 475, GT40-P heads, Edelbrock Performer intake, Mallory YLM Ignition
The world is full of youth—what we need is a fountain of smart!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-15-2014, 04:01 PM
CC2MC's Avatar
CC2MC CC2MC is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Boat: 2003 Maristar 210 Predator
Location: Alabama
Posts: 960
Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
Dumb question, but do they need to come out in one piece? Why are you pulling your exhaust hose?
That is not a dumb question. Ultimately, I would like to remove my exhaust tips because the gelcoat is cracked where the screw holes come into the transom. I need to remove the exhaust flanges in order to repair the cracked gelcoat.

Thanks Laurel for the advice. I will just have to put a little bit more weight into it I guess. How did you end up getting the old exhaust flanges off? Also, where did you get the new stainless tips?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-15-2014, 10:12 PM
Laurel_Lake_Skier's Avatar
Laurel_Lake_Skier Laurel_Lake_Skier is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 1991 ProStar 190
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 835
Send a message via Skype™ to Laurel_Lake_Skier
Once the hoses were off, the original flanges came of fairly easily. I took the screws out, got a thin flexible blade of a putty knife worked in between the hull and the flange and then a bit of twisting and wiggling of the flange. Both came out pretty quickly. I spent a lot more time cleaning off the old sealant than getting the original tips off/out.

The new stainless tips came from an area MasterCraft dealer and were new-old-stock. I don't recall the exact cost but remember they were a pretty good deal....as I recall about $150 for the pair — they were exact matches for the original units.
__________________
1991 ProStar 190—Acme 475, GT40-P heads, Edelbrock Performer intake, Mallory YLM Ignition
The world is full of youth—what we need is a fountain of smart!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-15-2014, 10:41 PM
CC2MC's Avatar
CC2MC CC2MC is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Boat: 2003 Maristar 210 Predator
Location: Alabama
Posts: 960
That is what I thought would be the case. I was planning on trying the same way of removing the flanges. I really have not thought too much about getting the adhesive off, but that is a very good point. If it is 5200, which it more than likely is, that will be a pain to remove. While I would like to upgrade to the stainless tips. I don't want to put the extra money into them. I will replace them with the same plastic ones that are already there.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:05 PM.