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  #1  
Old 11-20-2014, 04:37 PM
Johnyb Johnyb is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft X-7 2005 MCX350
Location: Australia
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Oil bath hubs took a bath

I own a 2005 Mastercraft X7 on a single axle trailer which I personally imported from Kansas USA to Australia, and epic journey. The plastic cap on the oil bath hubs cracked and let buckets of water into the hub. I have driven some 60kms or 40miles on them before realising. They did not run dry. What was left in the oil bath hub was a milky white mixture of oil and lake water. I have ordered 2 new aluminium caps.

Question: Should I be replacing the bearings or any other parts? If so what part numbers are needed. I am in Australia (G'day) and the oil bath and torsion axles are not common here, I also imported the boat myself and the dealers are less than helpful so looking for the best advice to give to my mechanic.

If you can point me to a trailer manual or the right people that would be appreciated.

ps When removing the plastic hub cap (carefully) the cap literally fell off leaving the screw in section inside the hub... so any tips for removing that would be appreciated.


Thanks very much. Aussie John

Last edited by Johnyb; 11-20-2014 at 05:00 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:13 PM
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Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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The fact that water got in vs. all the oil running out is a positive, if not good, sign! As you noted, the bearings never went dry and milky still means oil was there. I think a simple spin of the hub will tell you a lot--if quiet, then probably all good. If any kind of noise, grinding, scraping then definitely replace the bearings. Very likely the axle stubs are still perfectly fine. Since it does not seem you had an overheat, I think your rear hub seal should be fine as well. Can't help you with any clever idea about getting the threaded part of the cap out. I'm sure others here will weigh in with some ideas and guidance.
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  #3  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:24 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
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I thought Reliable had gone out of business but they still have a website and still make trailer parts. I would start with them. Here's their home page.....

http://www.reliablepmw.com/

On the repair..... If it were my trailer I would be at a minimum replacing the bearings and looking real close at the races. If the races look even slightly pitted or scored replace them, its cheap insurance.

Here's a link to a place that carries a lot of Reliable parts. I'm sure if you had your axle part number they could help you with the correct parts you need.

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/index.asp?url=IND

I'm also attaching the Reliable manual I was able to find on the web a couple months ago. A lot of good information and part numbers for the bearings, seals and races.
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File Type: pdf RELIABLEAXLEMANUAL.pdf (316.8 KB, 27 views)
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:33 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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On the threaded part still in the hub..... You may want to try using a screwdriver and hammer to tap (unthread) the remaining piece out. The other option would be to use a hack saw blade cut the remaining part down to the threads in 3 or 4 locations (pie cut if you will) then they'll either fall out or will be easily pried out.
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  #5  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:37 PM
Johnyb Johnyb is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Boat: Mastercraft X-7 2005 MCX350
Location: Australia
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Thanks for the links. I had contacted Reliable and they directed my enquiry to Mastercraft.

Importing parts from USA can be expensive so I want to make sure I'm taking very good care of what I have (aka I'll take advice on cheap insurance). From what Ive researched the cracking of the plastic caps is not new and led reliable to manufacture aluminium caps.

I'll take a look over the manual. If anyones replaced bearings and the like let me know about the process, I can almost g'tee the mechanic will be looking at these hubs for the first time
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  #6  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:38 PM
Johnyb Johnyb is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft X-7 2005 MCX350
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I have a dremmel, perhaps pie cuts almost to the thread and a technical tap with a hammer might fix that problem?
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  #7  
Old 11-20-2014, 05:55 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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See if they'll unthread first. Use a screwdriver as a chisel. Place the screwdriver at about a 45 degree angle and lightly tap the remaining piece in the hub in a counter clockwise direction to try and unscrew it. This typically will work.

Plan B for me would be to do any cutting around the threads but I have had to resort to this. Once the cuts have been made use a small screwdriver or pick to pry the pieces out.
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2014, 06:24 PM
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jwroblew jwroblew is offline
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http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...tml?1180533730

good right up on procedure with part number
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2014, 06:26 PM
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jwroblew jwroblew is offline
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you can also just put greased bearings in and a cap. If you want to go that route I can get you part numbers. There is nothing special about these hubs that make them only for oil.
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  #10  
Old 11-20-2014, 06:55 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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That's interesting. I was told the cap was threaded. Mine also look different. Mine look like this.....

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/ite...?ic=OBC-2441AL
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