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  #11  
Old 01-03-2014, 07:19 PM
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rgardjr1 rgardjr1 is offline
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Originally Posted by Footin View Post
I am still thinking about ordering the kit, I just wish I could tell if it comes with everything I need.

I have never wired with relays before, does it lay out like this: main hot lug behind dash panel to black relay breaker box to switches to pumps?

If I knew the kit was complete, I would order it.

Here are some better pictures from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/MASTERCRAFT-...93312b&vxp=mtr


I am not sure on this one.
That kit looks pretty complete. As mentioned earlier it looks like you'd need the Duetsch connectors on the pumps, but the wiring is there. The EBay link shows that it's for a 2006 so you won't have to deal with the timers. From what I remember that black box holds the relays and breakers and sits below the rear port seat. You can see the red wire with the eye connector that runs to the positive side battery. Should be pretty straight forward to install. I believe you'll just need to run the wiring harness from the switches to black breaker box and plug it in to both. Hook up the power to the breaker box and that side should be ready. Then mount the pumps, install the intakes, run hoses and bags and your good.
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  #12  
Old 01-03-2014, 09:36 PM
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Knowing what I know now if I were going to add pumps to an MC that didn't have them I would for sure buy that kit you linked to.

Carling switches from the dealer are $25 each. The relays are $10x6 each and that doesn't include the connector, pins, locks, rubber grommets or wire. The circut breakers are $12x3 each.

Buying that kit will let your do it the right way.

If you have specific questions when you go to do the install I'd be more then happy to trace down the leads on my system and help you out.

The last thing you want to do is create a wiring hazard on your boat.

Not sure if you ever looked into my thread but the first post outlines what is need to add a single pump.

http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=40934

With that kit you get 3 pumps wired the right way.
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Last edited by CantRepeat; 01-03-2014 at 10:39 PM. Reason: because you don't want to install a kid!!
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  #13  
Old 01-03-2014, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Knowing what I know now if I were going to add pumps to an MC that didn't have them I would for sure buy that kit you linked to.
I totally agree cheaper and it will save time. I've got a 2006 that I can take pictures of too to help out. I need to replace a relay on mine this winter so I'll be pulling out the breaker box at some point this winter.
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  #14  
Old 01-04-2014, 06:32 AM
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What they said..... At the price they're asking I was considering buying a box from them just to have the spares.

Another plus is that you'll have a factory designed, factory looking system. When I do modifications to my boat I research how it looks on the boat if it was to come from the factory and do them to the factory standards with a factory look and feel. In many cases (such as my dual battery installation) I actually surpass the factory standard but keep the factory look. I don't do anything to my boat that does not look like it didn't come that way from the factory. I want top dollar for my boats when I sell them and this method of adding options has worked well for me over the years.

IMO there's nothing worse for resale than a boat that's been modified poorly. Not saying you'd do a bad job but the lack of wire guard, black tape and splices instead of Duetsch connectors is going to scream backyard update.
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  #15  
Old 01-04-2014, 09:15 AM
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Funny, at their online store the kit is $225 but on their ebay listing its $275.
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  #16  
Old 01-04-2014, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CantRepeat View Post
Funny, at their online store the kit is $225 but on their ebay listing its $275.
I noticed that!

I agree with you, I will probably order this kit when I am ready to install.

Now to decide on the size of the rear locker sacs.
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  #17  
Old 01-04-2014, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Footin View Post
I noticed that!

I agree with you, I will probably order this kit when I am ready to install.

Now to decide on the size of the rear locker sacs.
This is leftover old mfg stock so would suggest buying now as Great Lakes probably only has 1 and when it's gone it's gone. They had other looms for other models which are now no longer available. I waited a few days before buying the loom I needed and it was bought by someone else. Just got lucky a few months later and found one on ebay. Jump quick or you will probably miss out on this.
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  #18  
Old 01-04-2014, 06:03 PM
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Ok, next question: I plan on using 3/4 tube to 3 ballast pumps. I am debating if I should have a dedicated thru hull fill/drain for each pump OR if the two rear sacs could share a thru hull? (by using a T fitting after the ball valve)

Most of the time I will only be filling one sac in the rear and the bow (surfing) so by plumbing the two rears to the same thru hull it would save a hole in my boat. The front sac would still have its own thru hull.

Thoughts????
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  #19  
Old 01-04-2014, 06:11 PM
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I would plumb. 3 pumps and a dedicated thru hull for each. Use 1" fittings and hose to increase fill rates. Drilling the holes using the magnet method takes 100% of the guesswork and chance of error over measuring. Once I finished drilling the first one, the next 5 were a piece of cake( I used checks and thru hull vents to discharge water overboard which aids in determining when bags are full or empty)
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  #20  
Old 01-04-2014, 06:21 PM
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I am going to use 3/4 and fill and drain below the waterline. The 3/4 bends easier and will be a neater install. I don't mind if the fill rate takes a little longer.

As far as drilling, I don't mind drilling the hole, just looking at the room and saving a few bucks if possible.
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