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  #21  
Old 12-26-2013, 04:48 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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  #22  
Old 12-26-2013, 09:33 PM
Jager Jager is offline
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Drain it in the spring... New Oil will absorb moisture over the winter while it sits.. I ride year round but when I let it sit for our winter (3-4 weeks), and it's up for an oil change, I run the hose out of the bottom plug.. And let it drain for a couple of days... It's probably the only way to close to 99% of the old oil out...


BTW.. explain what "residual contaminants" are..?

It should only be spent oil with a little carbon in it..
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  #23  
Old 12-26-2013, 09:39 PM
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CruisinGA CruisinGA is offline
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'Spent' oil is acidic.

Draining old oil without adding fresh oil and then running the engine to circulate new oil is the same as not draining or changing oil at all.
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  #24  
Old 12-26-2013, 10:02 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jager View Post
Drain it in the spring... New Oil will absorb moisture over the winter while it sits.. I ride year round but when I let it sit for our winter (3-4 weeks), and it's up for an oil change, I run the hose out of the bottom plug.. And let it drain for a couple of days... It's probably the only way to close to 99% of the old oil out...


BTW.. explain what "residual contaminants" are..?

It should only be spent oil with a little carbon in it..
The really teeny small crap that get passed the oil filter...
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  #25  
Old 12-26-2013, 10:08 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruisinGA View Post
'Spent' oil is acidic.

Draining old oil without adding fresh oil and then running the engine to circulate new oil is the same as not draining or changing oil at all.
good point.
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  #26  
Old 12-27-2013, 01:05 AM
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onewheat onewheat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jager View Post
Drain it in the spring... New Oil will absorb moisture over the winter while it sits..
I don't think oil absorbs much moisture, although it is hygroscopic. I went searching and found this -

"Oil is no different. Small amounts of moisture are readily attracted to oil, a term we sometimes refer to as hygroscopic. Hygroscopic simply means that the material¬—in this case oil—has an affinity for moisture. The degree to which an oil will absorb moisture will depend on a number of factors including base oil type and age, additive composition and the level of contamination.

Typically speaking, the more polar the base oil, the more water can be held in suspension. For this reason, high polar base oils such as phosphate esters or polyalkylene glycols are significantly more hygroscopic and hence hold more water in the dissolved phase than petroleum oils. Likewise, highly refined mineral oils and synthetics will hold less water in the dissolved phase than less highly refined Group I or II mineral oils due to the absence of cyclo-aromatics, naphthenes and other impurities that tend to absorb moisture more readily. Aged fluids also tend to hold more water in solution due to the by-product of base oil degradation, which tends to be more polar than the base oil molecules themselves.
"

What this means is all oil absorbs water - petroleum oils and synthetics absorb a little but aged (used) oil absorbs more. Therefore old oil will absorb more moisture - hence more moisture in your engine while it sits. All of this being said - when your oil gets up to operating temperature, it will burn off moisture as steam - the same as when you get condensation inside your engine when it cools. Given the choice - you should opt for CLEAN oil sitting in your engine while stored but it doesn't need to be changed again when the season starts. Any traces of moisture will be lost when the engine is run and gets up to operating temperature.
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  #27  
Old 12-27-2013, 08:50 AM
bsloop bsloop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jager View Post
it's up for an oil change, I run the hose out of the bottom plug.. And let it drain for a couple of days... It's probably the only way to close to 99% of the old oil out...


BTW.. explain what "residual contaminants" are..?

It should only be spent oil with a little carbon in it..
Quote:
Originally Posted by CruisinGA View Post
'Spent' oil is acidic.

Draining old oil without adding fresh oil and then running the engine to circulate new oil is the same as not draining or changing oil at all.
Both of you are WAY over thinking for just a common oil change.

Assuming this is a standard oil change and not due to some catastrophic contamination or failure -
Drain until you get to that spittle drip that seems to have a mind of its own when it falls and cap.
Anything else is a waste of time, materials and thought.

The very small percent remaining will have no measurable effect on the large quantity of new oil added. The new oil has a fresh load of additives that will neutralize any minute ill effects of remaining oil. This will continue in a perpetual cycle. Modern oils are so much better refined and have a better additive package than when the antiquated 3k mile/50 hr oil recommendations had revelancy. Anyone that pulls a UOA (used oil analysis) on a oem 50hr motor and finds problems is going to find a bigger problem than general usage and one that will not be masked long by short or overly complex purge processes.

This is just a common motor. Chances are infinitely higher that some other environmental or maintenance factor will wipe out an engine or the boat as a whole long before when or how a regular oil change was done.
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Last edited by bsloop; 12-27-2013 at 09:02 AM.
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  #28  
Old 12-27-2013, 05:05 PM
supreme112279 supreme112279 is online now
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Since we're on the subject. I ended the season with 30 hours on Mobil synthetic oil. Should I play 20 hours next season or just change at the start on the season
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  #29  
Old 12-27-2013, 05:09 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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uh-oh - this is building into an oil discussion...
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  #30  
Old 12-27-2013, 05:17 PM
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JohnE JohnE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
uh-oh - this is building into an oil discussion...
It is Winter on TT. I may have to merge this with a few JimN/ Bigmac discussions.
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