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Old 11-11-2013, 10:40 AM
bochnak bochnak is offline
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Floor section screws

I am missing all the screws for the floor section behind engine. Can anyone let me know what size/length these are? There are 4 correct?
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Old 11-11-2013, 11:11 AM
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There are 4, and they are stainless, slotted, oval head screws around 2.5"-3" IIRC. Enough to go through your floorboard and have at least an inch or so in the floor. You will also need a finishing washer for each screw as well. I am not sure on the size, but probably somewhere around a #10 or #12. You want the ones that will self tap.
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:41 PM
bochnak bochnak is offline
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Originally Posted by CC2MC View Post
There are 4, and they are stainless, slotted, oval head screws around 2.5"-3" IIRC. Enough to go through your floorboard and have at least an inch or so in the floor. You will also need a finishing washer for each screw as well. I am not sure on the size, but probably somewhere around a #10 or #12. You want the ones that will self tap.
Thanks. I'm pretty sure ACE or Home Depot may have screws like this?
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:56 PM
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Don't forget finishing washers .
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:01 PM
bochnak bochnak is offline
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Don't forget finishing washers .
OK, I won't forget. I could have swore that they sell packs of this stuff. I'm opting for phillips though. Can't stand slotted.
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bochnak View Post
OK, I won't forget. I could have swore that they sell packs of this stuff. I'm opting for phillips though. Can't stand slotted.
Billet washers are way cool... Just sayin'
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Old 11-11-2013, 02:25 PM
bochnak bochnak is offline
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Billet washers are way cool... Just sayin'
Meh, doesn't do it for me
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Old 11-11-2013, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bochnak View Post
OK, I won't forget. I could have swore that they sell packs of this stuff. I'm opting for phillips though. Can't stand slotted.
Not sure why I said slotted. I am pretty sure mine were phillips, come to think of it. The hardware store will have what you need. Just make sure they are stainless. Also be careful not to overtighten these screws if you still have the honeycomb floor, bc it will crush the floor if you get it too tight. One thing you may want to consider while you are messing with the floor board, is putting a backing plate on the underside of the floor where the engine hatch hinges come through. I noticed my floor starting to crush in those spots and the screws just kept coming loose. I put the backing plates on and it was all fixed. It should have come from the factory like that IMO.

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Old 11-11-2013, 04:11 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by bochnak View Post
I am missing all the screws for the floor section behind engine. Can anyone let me know what size/length these are? There are 4 correct?
I used 1-1/2" machine screws.
While you're at it:

Pull the floor section, remove the carpet (reusable) and draw a template of the section on a 3/4" piece of commercial grade plywood.

While you're at Lowes (or wherever) pick up a quart of 3M fiberglass resin (it comes with hardener). Coat the wood floor piece with the resin. It's now waterproof. No need for marine board.

Glue the carpet on just like it came off the original floor piece. I personally do not use screws for securing the floor but that's your choice. I filled the holes in the stringers with an epoxy filler and called it a day....no screw heads, no alignment when you take the floor out and put back in place... just much simpler all around.

For the hinges, go to the hardware store and use #10(or your choice) machine screws and accompanying T-nuts with four studs on each nut. I actually added a little glue to each nut before I installed, to glue the nut in place in case I hit an angle while pushing in a screw and did not want the accidentally punch out the T-nut.

You can figure the rest of the installation. I did this to my machine last winter. Works like a champ, secure hinges, and a sturdy lifetime floor. No more honeycomb aluminum for me and no more removing the floor and the engine cover in one connected piece.

Do it right...

A nice and easy Saturday afternoon project. The resin dries and hardens within an hour and ready for continued work.

Forget this other crap of backing plates and what-not..it's a temporary fix. Sturdy but temporary.... The honeycomb will eventually soften, sag, and crush, so fix it now while you have it out. I did the rear and front removable sections on my machine.

I'm fixing to do a 96 Prostar 205 in a few weeks. Same piece of plywood, same resin, etc... Your material will go a long way if you have friends with similar needs. I have also ordered new lift supports for the engine cover. That will stabilize the engine cover a lot. Found them on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ).

Done deal.
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Last edited by Cloaked; 11-11-2013 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:10 AM
bochnak bochnak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
I used 1-1/2" machine screws.
While you're at it:

Pull the floor section, remove the carpet (reusable) and draw a template of the section on a 3/4" piece of commercial grade plywood.

While you're at Lowes (or wherever) pick up a quart of 3M fiberglass resin (it comes with hardener). Coat the wood floor piece with the resin. It's now waterproof. No need for marine board.

Glue the carpet on just like it came off the original floor piece. I personally do not use screws for securing the floor but that's your choice. I filled the holes in the stringers with an epoxy filler and called it a day....no screw heads, no alignment when you take the floor out and put back in place... just much simpler all around.

For the hinges, go to the hardware store and use #10(or your choice) machine screws and accompanying T-nuts with four studs on each nut. I actually added a little glue to each nut before I installed, to glue the nut in place in case I hit an angle while pushing in a screw and did not want the accidentally punch out the T-nut.

You can figure the rest of the installation. I did this to my machine last winter. Works like a champ, secure hinges, and a sturdy lifetime floor. No more honeycomb aluminum for me and no more removing the floor and the engine cover in one connected piece.

Do it right...

A nice and easy Saturday afternoon project. The resin dries and hardens within an hour and ready for continued work.

Forget this other crap of backing plates and what-not..it's a temporary fix. Sturdy but temporary.... The honeycomb will eventually soften, sag, and crush, so fix it now while you have it out. I did the rear and front removable sections on my machine.

I'm fixing to do a 96 Prostar 205 in a few weeks. Same piece of plywood, same resin, etc... Your material will go a long way if you have friends with similar needs. I have also ordered new lift supports for the engine cover. That will stabilize the engine cover a lot. Found them on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ).

Done deal.
$0.02
Thanks for the response. The rear floor section is in good shape, so I'll leave it alone for now. I am missing some motorbox hinge screws as well as the gas shocks, which I will replace.

I do however, need to replace the front floor section near pylon. I'll follow your advice on rebuilding this portion.
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