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  #41  
Old 11-11-2013, 12:13 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Awesome Strad - glad that worked!

There are some neat solutions to these problems..

http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsMetal/carbonSteel.html
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  #42  
Old 11-11-2013, 05:25 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strad View Post
Yeah I didn't start yet because I know the ones I pulled off aren't a good template! They are softwall and both were kinked in such a way as to close off about half the opening. I assume they aren't original (mc would not have installed them that way lol) but they appear to be quite old.
I'd venture to say those are the OEM. MC did not go out of their way to perfect their quality program in the 80s. I have seen a lot of them this way (OEM install). Soft wall is OK. Actually it is my preferred material for the exhaust hose.

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Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



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..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

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feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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  #43  
Old 11-12-2013, 05:14 PM
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CCAnderson CCAnderson is offline
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IMO Loctite epoxy is garbage. I have tried using it for structural applications, holding a floor lamp together, it failed. MAS F.L.A.G. with silica filler is working nicely. For your flange issue it should be OK especially if you add a few layers of glass.
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  #44  
Old 11-18-2013, 09:11 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Approach carefully. Do not final-cut the hoses until you have done a test fit. Don't go cutting a certain length on a 90 deg cut. It doesn't work that way. Best I recall is 19" for each hose to make the fit. The exhaust port on the riser does not line up on the same axis as the exhaust (they are a little off), therefore you will not get a perfect fit. The hose will have a tiny bit of a bend in it near the riser. Live with it.

Best way to fit the hoses are to do the hoses before securing the risers back into place. They are much easier to work with when the risers off.

Softwall hoses will cut easily with a box cutter. Wired hose is about the same other than the tough wire. Don't ruin a good pair of Klines on that nasty wire., Use some junker cutters.

Don't forget the anti-seize compound on the hose connections....

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I used a hack saw or my air reciprocating body panel saw for cutting the wire. A small bolt cutter would work, too. I never had any luck with wire cutters, IIRC.
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  #45  
Old 11-18-2013, 09:46 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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Boat: 1988 Tristar 190 Sport (Closed Bow), 351W w/ GT-40's
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Exhaust hose

When I recently replaced the exhaust hoses between the riser and the fiberglass mufflers, the originals were soft type (without wire). The stuff I bought locally was wired, which was all they had in stock. The dimension I used on mine was 20". When the guy at the store was cutting off my section (only sold it in 12" increments) I heard some sort of power tool in the back. When I inquired, he said he used a chop-saw (circular cut-off saw). I had an 8" chop saw and so I tried it as well. A bit scary, it easily cuts the rubber, and it did cut thru the stainless steel wire as well. I highly recommend the safety glasses for that task. I could only get my old pair of kleins to cut the wire by stomping on handles against the ground. Man that stuff is tough. I would have preferred the soft type hose as well if I could have found it.
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  #46  
Old 11-19-2013, 01:41 AM
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strad strad is offline
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How do I evaluate exhaust manifold condition?

I have a pair of bolt cutters because I am in the rental house business and I have needed them once or twice in that capacity. I don't own anything better yet. I had the bright idea to use them on the wire. Worked great!
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Last edited by strad; 11-19-2013 at 02:01 AM.
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