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  #11  
Old 11-04-2013, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
If the piece was butt-joined, it may not be strong enough but you could back it up with a couple of layers of fiberglass.
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Originally Posted by strad View Post
Yeah what I might do is put a sheet on the inside for reinforcement. I would think the outside would increase the dia too much and I might not get the hose on.
you guys crack me up...
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  #12  
Old 11-04-2013, 06:04 PM
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you guys crack me up...
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  #13  
Old 11-04-2013, 06:29 PM
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[
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  #14  
Old 11-06-2013, 02:59 PM
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Hmm. I cut the new straight hose sections exactly the same length as the old ones, and I fitted the first muffler/rear hose in the boat, and the front of the muffler (the 45-degree up pipe) is VERY close to interfering with the transmission mount bracket. I did not notice how close it was before removal I did make sure that the hose was in the same position on the muffler as before, and that I got the hose tight up against the transom on the rear fitting.

I can always cut the hose shorter and thereby increase the clearance, but how much clearance should there be? The MCOCD in me wants to know
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  #15  
Old 11-06-2013, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by strad View Post
Hmm. I cut the new straight hose sections exactly the same length as the old ones, and I fitted the first muffler/rear hose in the boat, and the front of the muffler (the 45-degree up pipe) is VERY close to interfering with the transmission mount bracket. I did not notice how close it was before removal I did make sure that the hose was in the same position on the muffler as before, and that I got the hose tight up against the transom on the rear fitting.

I can always cut the hose shorter and thereby increase the clearance, but how much clearance should there be? The MCOCD in me wants to know
we need pictures to help enable you...
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  #16  
Old 11-06-2013, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
we need pictures to help enable you...
Consider it done.



And since the bilge is relatively clean:



I don't know how I could have gotten here, unless the hoses have been replaced before and whoever did it cut the back hoses longer than they should have. Curses on me for not noticing where it was before!
edit: btw, do auto parts stores have those fuel hose clamps with the screw hole in them (like to fasten the fuel hose to the stringer).
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  #17  
Old 11-06-2013, 07:57 PM
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How do I evaluate exhaust manifold condition?

Ok think I got it sorted. I also got some hangers and put the fuel hose back in the factory location.

Now I'm waiting for exhaust gaskets and manifold bolts as well as the new risers. When they arrive I can install my refurbished manifolds and put the thing back together. I already chased all the bolt holes and I have the riser bolts and washers. What is the torque on the riser bolts and the manifold bolts? I got a nifty u joint socket so I can use a torque wrench on the riser bolts.
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  #18  
Old 11-07-2013, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strad View Post
Ok think I got it sorted. I also got some hangers and put the fuel hose back in the factory location.

Now I'm waiting for exhaust gaskets and manifold bolts as well as the new risers. When they arrive I can install my refurbished manifolds and put the thing back together. I already chased all the bolt holes and I have the riser bolts and washers. What is the torque on the riser bolts and the manifold bolts? I got a nifty u joint socket so I can use a torque wrench on the riser bolts.
good-n-tight - for risers...but not over torqued - manifold spec's James will have to chime or others.

The hoses should be just long enough no to bend... am I missing sumfin? Maybe someone can post up the length.
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  #19  
Old 11-07-2013, 07:24 AM
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[quote=Cloaked;989390]It will be fine.

When you reassemble with hoses, use an anti-sieze compound on the hose connections to the riser. Makes them much easier to remove later on.


Is this the same type of anti-seize you would use on nuts and bolts or something special used with rubber?
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  #20  
Old 11-07-2013, 08:16 AM
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[quote=Snipe;990117]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
It will be fine.

When you reassemble with hoses, use an anti-sieze compound on the hose connections to the riser. Makes them much easier to remove later on.


Is this the same type of anti-seize you would use on nuts and bolts or something special used with rubber?
Just about anything that's petroleum-based will degrade the rubber. Bicycle inner tubes are coated with talc, IIRC, and that doesn't affect much of anything, but if you use a hose release tool, it's usually not too hard to get the hoses to come off.
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