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  #11  
Old 10-25-2013, 01:55 PM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
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Thanks for the input. No, I am not the original owner - boat had 93 hours when I bought it in the spring of last year. I didn't notice unusual oil consumption when I winterized last fall though.
I stopped by the dealer this morning - they said they consider 15% from high to low as acceptable - I'm right there on the edge. Clearly something is going on though in 3 & 5. Dealer actually loaned me their leak down tester and remote bump starter so that I can get a better idea of what's going on in there. I'll test 3 & 5 this afternoon and report my findings.
Can one of you give me a better idea of what to listen for on the leak down locations?

Neil, where and when is the move to SLC area?
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  #12  
Old 10-25-2013, 01:59 PM
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neil.anderson63 neil.anderson63 is offline
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It's a Snap-On BK6500 - Cha-ching $$$$ 800.00 The new version is in HD. Saves my shop tons of diagnosis time.
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  #13  
Old 10-25-2013, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil.anderson63 View Post
It's a Snap-On BK6500 - Cha-ching $$$$ 800.00 The new version is in HD. Saves my shop tons of diagnosis time.
OH!! That's price but yeah, if engines are your game then that's a nice have for sure.

It would re really nice to get look at the cylinder walls on that MCX before pulling it.
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  #14  
Old 10-25-2013, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyskiguy View Post
Thanks for the input. No, I am not the original owner - boat had 93 hours when I bought it in the spring of last year. I didn't notice unusual oil consumption when I winterized last fall though.
I stopped by the dealer this morning - they said they consider 15% from high to low as acceptable - I'm right there on the edge. Clearly something is going on though in 3 & 5. Dealer actually loaned me their leak down tester and remote bump starter so that I can get a better idea of what's going on in there. I'll test 3 & 5 this afternoon and report my findings.
Can one of you give me a better idea of what to listen for on the leak down locations?

Neil, where and when is the move to SLC area?

With the piston on TDC of the compression stroke.

Bubbles in radiator = head gasket, but I don't think that is your issue.

Air escaping out of the throttle body = intake valve

Air out of the exhaust = exhaust valve

Air out of the crank case/dip stick tube = rings/pistons

On a cold motor you're going to get some leaking past the rings but it shouldn't be above 20% or so.

Lots of great videos on youtube for leak down testing.

edit

If Larry, enginenut, doesn't show up here soon you might want to PM him here. I think he has PM email notification on. Ask him what he thinks about your compression and your leak down test results. He's crazy smart on all things Indmar!

And hopefully, Jim will be around too.

/edit
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  #15  
Old 10-25-2013, 03:05 PM
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CruisinGA CruisinGA is offline
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Bore scope.
Harbor freight has cheap ones, we have very good optical ones where I work at a large engine company.
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  #16  
Old 10-25-2013, 03:22 PM
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neil.anderson63 neil.anderson63 is offline
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Neil, where and when is the move to SLC area?
ASAP!!! I grew up in Murray. The little woman wants to move West to have year 'round recreation options. I'm not even thinking of complaining - I miss the 801!!
We are both interviewing; as soon as one of us gets employment lined up - We're mobile!
She likes the Ogden area, small city feel - close to Willard and Pineview (or what's left of it) and ski resorts.
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2013, 03:59 PM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
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So it sounds like it is best to bring engine up to temp before running the leak down test? And is it best to remove all the plugs like a compression test?
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  #18  
Old 10-25-2013, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Skyskiguy View Post
So it sounds like it is best to bring engine up to temp before running the leak down test? And is it best to remove all the plugs like a compression test?
At temperature would be best and pulling all the plugs is fine.
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  #19  
Old 10-25-2013, 08:16 PM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
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OK, boys and girls, the results are in:

Cylinder # / compression PSI / leak % / leak location
1 / 165 / 17
2 / 172 / 15
3 / 150 / 68 / intake manifold
4 / 162 / 40 / exhaust
5 / 145 / 75 / intake manifold
6 / 158 / 40 / exhaust
7 / 160 / 25
8 / 167 / 18

The gauge the dealer loaned me indicates 10-40% "low", 40-70% "moderate", and 70-100% "high".

As expected, all cylinders had some leakage into the crankcase well within "low" range. I was a bit surprised to see 40% on cylinders 4 & 6 into the exhaust when the compression is good. What could be the issue in these two cylinders? Build up on the exhaust valves - or something else?
The real "problem" cylinders, 3 & 5, are leaking from the intake valves - didn't notice any real difference, in terms of leakage past the rings, between those two cylinders and all the others. I thinks that should be good news - right? Question is, what's the fix? And would it require pulling the engine? And with the leak at the intake valves, does that help explain my oil consumption and dark spark plugs in those two cylinders 3 & 5?

Wish I were a real mechanic and had the answers. I guess this is how we learn, right? That's what makes this forum so great!
Thanks again for all the valuable input.
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  #20  
Old 10-25-2013, 09:41 PM
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Are you sure you had TDC on the compression stroke?

When you say in the low range what % are you saying. 35% is a gonna be a big difference then say 10%.
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