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  #31  
Old 02-16-2014, 12:18 AM
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wheelerd wheelerd is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Boat: 2005 X2
Location: Central Alberta, Canada
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Don't forget if you plan to do it at the lake . . . if you're using an electric staple gun or an air gun with compressor you will need a power source.
- don't know if an inverter off the vehicle battery would run a staple gun
- otherwise, a portable generator or another AC source and a long extension cord
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2005 X2, Viper Red, MCX, Acme 1285, PPass, rear 750 sacs, KGB, IBS, Bennett Wake Plate
(previous) 2001 X5, 1991 TriStar 190
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  #32  
Old 02-16-2014, 01:20 AM
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TresRiver205 TresRiver205 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Boat: 95 Prostar 205
Location: PA
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My bolts spun.

Since I was replacing the bunk boards and carpet I just cut the boards on both sides of the bolts with a circular saw then smashed the remaining wood out with hammer and chisel. Then I held the bolts with vise grips to loosen. A couple were stubborn so I just used the 4" grinder to cut them.


Nice stress relief.
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  #33  
Old 04-29-2014, 04:08 PM
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JMann JMann is offline
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Boat: 1991 Prostar 190, Indmar 351
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I just got some of the Ultimate Bunk Boards to replace my V bunk on the front of my trailer. I have to say the material seams a lot like this material

http://www.plasticboards.com/recycle...lastic-lumber/

We use this to make exterior sign structures for the parks service. The only difference I can tell is the fiber force seems a little heavier than the bunk boards.

I'm going to use the Bunk Boards for my "V" bunk now. What do you guys think about doing the trailer bunks with this Fiber board?
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  #34  
Old 05-22-2014, 11:35 AM
bzeller33 bzeller33 is offline
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JMann, interested in how well the Ultimate Bunk Boards are working? I think it's a no brainer to figure out some way to avoid carpet as long as the strength is there. Not sure why anyone would choose carpet over something that never requires replacement as long as cost would remain under 2x - 3x and not break under the load of an inboard.
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