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  #31  
Old 10-28-2013, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varun View Post
Clearly I'm not an expert at this, hence I do not understand the lingo. What is MCODumb and DUMB in reference to the past two comments/posts?
I understand that you do not want to run the motor dry w/o water as it will overheat, I get that. I do not want to fill water in the motor to begin with, I am looking at winterizing hence I will first drain as much water as I can, then fill 5-6 gal of RV AF via this bucket method.
Do I need to splice this Perko Flush Pro valve permanently into the water lines/plumbing of my boat, or connect it only when im doing the flush? Anyone know how thick those hoses are on a late model x25? So if I'm not mistaken, this Perko Flush Pro is the same gizmo that M/c installs in their boats as the 'engine flush kit'?
MCOCD is a term coined for those of us here who may go over the top in the care and maintenance of our boats. The Dumb part comes from a "gentleman" on here who is taking personal shots at a well respected member here who evidently feels insulted somehow. Please disregard his offensive behavior.
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  #32  
Old 10-28-2013, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by varun View Post
Clearly I'm not an expert at this, hence I do not understand the lingo. What is MCODumb and DUMB in reference to the past two comments/posts?
I understand that you do not want to run the motor dry w/o water as it will overheat, I get that. I do not want to fill water in the motor to begin with, I am looking at winterizing hence I will first drain as much water as I can, then fill 5-6 gal of RV AF via this bucket method.
Do I need to splice this Perko Flush Pro valve permanently into the water lines/plumbing of my boat, or connect it only when im doing the flush? Anyone know how thick those hoses are on a late model x25? So if I'm not mistaken, this Perko Flush Pro is the same gizmo that M/c installs in their boats as the 'engine flush kit'?
As far as drawing rv antifreeze into your engine, you only need to remove the intake side hose from your transmission cooler. Then get your own hose to connect from the trans cooler to the bucket of your choosing. Once completed you can remove your intake hose and reconnect the original supply hose.

You can also go with a Perko system but that is a little more involved.
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  #33  
Old 10-28-2013, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsloop View Post
The comment was not directed at any one person, simply the idea that an engine out of the water needs the full flow of raw water provided by the pump.
If an individual has so much pride in an unfounded idea they cant read my original statement for what it was then that may qualify them as dumb.

I will accept the FACT that the raw water pump CAN flow an extremely high volume of water. It is designed so high for worst case scenario and still have capacity to spare. Heavy load, hot tropical water, worn parts, etc.
I also contend any standard marine engine does not need this full volume for cooling.
If it did, the much lower volume of a hose would result in scalding hot water or pure steam from the exhaust. Neither of which happens. After heavy running on a hose, water from the exhaust will still be only warm to the touch at approx. 110-120 degrees. Risers are hot but no hotter than if one touches them after running on the water. The brass pump housing is cool to the touch so the is no rubber friction there.

Even WOT on the trailer, the engine is not under load thus not burning max fuel or producing the heat. Also, tap water is usually 50-75 degrees and thus has greater heat absorption than worst case tropics.

A person can change their oil every 20 hours, new impeller once a month or dump buckets of water. That is fine, none will damage the engine but all are a waste of time, money and resources for what a standard production engine requires for a long, happy life. A person can laugh it off as MCOD, I just laugh.

Be very clear, I think the idea of a bucket hooked to the raw water has advantages over a "fake a lake" or Flush but all have their tradeoffs.
The idea that an engine needs as much water flow as the raw water pump can provide is flawed and dumb in my opinion from experience and qualitatively.
You aren't really serious that you run your engine at WOT on the trailer connected to a hose, are you?
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  #34  
Old 10-29-2013, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsloop View Post
Perko flush pro makes it easy to run the motor anytime and winterize.
http://www.perko.com/catalog/categor...re/product/62/
I do find I have to seal the hull intake with tape to get it to suck AF from a bucket.

I call the "MCODumb" of using a bucket because of a fear the volume of water the pump can move Dumb. Any flow of water will lubricate the pump to prevent wear and garden hose can flow plenty of water to prevent overheating from my experience. I run it up to speed, tune etc, watch the temp go up then go down as the thermostat opens.

Bucket is fine for AF delivery but Dumb for general running if due to fear of lack of water.
And I read that other post of yours on the subject, too. A few thoughts ...

I had water pressure issues at my house for years. I realized the extent of it after sticking my garden hose in the raw water supply hose, turning it on, running the boat, and not getting any water flow. Yes, the hose works fine most of the time, but it's not a universal fix. So I stick with the $8 bucket solution that works well for me. Yes, I get peace of mind from watching the engine draw the water. Oddly enough, I just pour antifreeze into the tstat.

To your other point, as far as winterization goes, you are correct. You don't need a lakes worth of water to keep the engine cool. All you are doing is warming up the engine to warm up the oil and transmission fluid and move stabilized fuel into all the necessary places. Most of us are keeping it under 1,200 rpm during this process. If it weren't for the lubricating properties of water required by the impeller, I'm not sure you need any water at all to do this. It will happen more quickly without any water. The point is, if you keep things lubricated and shut the boat off when you get up to temp, it doesn't really matter how much water you used to get there or how you got it there.

The practical concern is keeping the impeller from getting burned up during this process. Some water will do this. None will result in your having to fish a bunch of impeller bits from every nook and cranny of the cooling system and beyond. In my case, I was paying close attention and didn't burn up the impeller. The real benefit of the bucket method over a non-opaque hose is that you know immediately that everything is working in that regard.

As mentioned above, based on having it not work, I prefer this bit of reassurance. If you are confident that the water pressure, etc. at your house will perform the exact same way as it always has (I know I once felt this way), then good on you. Whistle a happy tune from a great feeling of superiority over us poor dullards that heave those massive empty five gallon buckets into our boats, spend an extra minute of our lives attaching a hose to the transmission cooler, dropping that hose into the bucket and feeding that bucket with a hose not unlike the one you cram into a raw water hose and clamp down.


And, for what it's worth, I don't have MC OCD. I dont' even have a MC.
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Last edited by east tx skier; 10-29-2013 at 04:04 PM.
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  #35  
Old 10-29-2013, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
And I read that other post of yours on the subject, too. A few thoughts ...

I had water pressure issues at my house for years. I realized the extent of it after sticking my garden hose in the raw water supply hose, turning it on, running the boat, and not getting any water flow. Yes, the hose works fine most of the time, but it's not a universal fix. So I stick with the $8 bucket solution that works well for me. Yes, I get peace of mind from watching the engine draw the water. Oddly enough, I just pour antifreeze into the tstat.

To your other point, as far as winterization goes, you are correct. You don't need a lakes worth of water to keep the engine cool. All you are doing is warming up the engine to warm up the oil and transmission fluid and move stabilized fuel into all the necessary places. Most of us are keeping it under 1,200 rpm during this process. If it weren't for the lubricating properties of water required by the impeller, I'm not sure you need any water at all to do this. It will happen more quickly without any water. The point is, if you keep things lubricated and shut the boat off when you get up to temp, it doesn't really matter how much water you used to get there or how you got it there.

The practical concern is keeping the impeller from getting burned up during this process. Some water will do this. None will result in your having to fish a bunch of impeller bits from every nook and cranny of the cooling system and beyond. In my case, I was paying close attention and didn't burn up the impeller. The real benefit of the bucket method over a non-opaque hose is that you know immediately that everything is working in that regard.

As mentioned above, based on having it not work, I prefer this bit of reassurance. If you are confident that the water pressure, etc. at your house will perform the exact same way as it always has (I know I once felt this way), then good on you. Whistle a happy tune from a great feeling of superiority over us poor dullards that heave those massive empty five gallon buckets into our boats, spend an extra minute of our lives attaching a hose to the transmission cooler, dropping that hose into the bucket and feeding that bucket with a hose not unlike the one you cram into a raw water hose and clamp down.


And, for what it's worth, I don't have MC OCD. I dont' even have a MC.
First sign of mental disorder - denial
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  #36  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
And I read that other post of yours on the subject, too. A few thoughts ...

I had water pressure issues at my house for years. I realized the extent of it after sticking my garden hose in the raw water supply hose, turning it on, running the boat, and not getting any water flow. Yes, the hose works fine most of the time, but it's not a universal fix. So I stick with the $8 bucket solution that works well for me. Yes, I get peace of mind from watching the engine draw the water. Oddly enough, I just pour antifreeze into the tstat.

To your other point, as far as winterization goes, you are correct. You don't need a lakes worth of water to keep the engine cool. All you are doing is warming up the engine to warm up the oil and transmission fluid and move stabilized fuel into all the necessary places. Most of us are keeping it under 1,200 rpm during this process. If it weren't for the lubricating properties of water required by the impeller, I'm not sure you need any water at all to do this. It will happen more quickly without any water. The point is, if you keep things lubricated and shut the boat off when you get up to temp, it doesn't really matter how much water you used to get there or how you got it there.

The practical concern is keeping the impeller from getting burned up during this process. Some water will do this. None will result in your having to fish a bunch of impeller bits from every nook and cranny of the cooling system and beyond. In my case, I was paying close attention and didn't burn up the impeller. The real benefit of the bucket method over a non-opaque hose is that you know immediately that everything is working in that regard.

As mentioned above, based on having it not work, I prefer this bit of reassurance. If you are confident that the water pressure, etc. at your house will perform the exact same way as it always has (I know I once felt this way), then good on you. Whistle a happy tune from a great feeling of superiority over us poor dullards that heave those massive empty five gallon buckets into our boats, spend an extra minute of our lives attaching a hose to the transmission cooler, dropping that hose into the bucket and feeding that bucket with a hose not unlike the one you cram into a raw water hose and clamp down.


And, for what it's worth, I don't have MC OCD. I dont' even have a MC.
Doug, you may have a plain old case of OCD... just sayin.
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  #37  
Old 10-29-2013, 05:16 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
And I read that other post of yours on the subject, too. A few thoughts ...

I had water pressure issues at my house for years. I realized the extent of it after sticking my garden hose in the raw water supply hose, turning it on, running the boat, and not getting any water flow. Yes, the hose works fine most of the time, but it's not a universal fix. So I stick with the $8 bucket solution that works well for me. Yes, I get peace of mind from watching the engine draw the water. Oddly enough, I just pour antifreeze into the tstat.

To your other point, as far as winterization goes, you are correct. You don't need a lakes worth of water to keep the engine cool. All you are doing is warming up the engine to warm up the oil and transmission fluid and move stabilized fuel into all the necessary places. Most of us are keeping it under 1,200 rpm during this process. If it weren't for the lubricating properties of water required by the impeller, I'm not sure you need any water at all to do this. It will happen more quickly without any water. The point is, if you keep things lubricated and shut the boat off when you get up to temp, it doesn't really matter how much water you used to get there or how you got it there.

The practical concern is keeping the impeller from getting burned up during this process. Some water will do this. None will result in your having to fish a bunch of impeller bits from every nook and cranny of the cooling system and beyond. In my case, I was paying close attention and didn't burn up the impeller. The real benefit of the bucket method over a non-opaque hose is that you know immediately that everything is working in that regard.

As mentioned above, based on having it not work, I prefer this bit of reassurance. If you are confident that the water pressure, etc. at your house will perform the exact same way as it always has (I know I once felt this way), then good on you. Whistle a happy tune from a great feeling of superiority over us poor dullards that heave those massive empty five gallon buckets into our boats, spend an extra minute of our lives attaching a hose to the transmission cooler, dropping that hose into the bucket and feeding that bucket with a hose not unlike the one you cram into a raw water hose and clamp down.


And, for what it's worth, I don't have MC OCD. I dont' even have a MC.
So what you are saying here is if I remove my impeller for winter lay-up, I may as well take it out first, then continue with my oil change and antifreeze and fogging process...............but I could do it all in just a few minutes???

-> Remove impeller
-> Start & run engine for 90 seconds to warm up
-> Change oil
-> Start & run, when oil psi comes up, fog until it dies
-> Pour RV antifreeze in through thermostat housing

Brilliant
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  #38  
Old 10-30-2013, 12:13 AM
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No. I'm not suggesting that anyone try that except one person.
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  #39  
Old 10-30-2013, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott023 View Post
Doug, you may have a plain old case of OCD... just sayin.
Tell me something I don't know.
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FAQ


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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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  #40  
Old 10-30-2013, 12:15 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
No. I'm not suggesting that anyone try that except one person.
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