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Old 04-27-2014, 10:49 PM
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TripleThreat TripleThreat is offline
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2001 ProStar 209 Stereo Installation

I will use this thread to document progress, ask and answer questions relating to a stereo installation on my 2001 ProStar 209, which didn't have a stereo installed at all.

Here is the component list that will be installed:

1 Polk Audio D5000.5 Amp
1 Rockford Fosgate M400-4D
4 Polk Audio MM 6501 UM 6 1/2" Component Speakers w/ 1" Tweeters
1 Polk Audio MM 1040 UM 10" Sub Woofer
1 JL Audio CL RLC Remote Level Control
2 Krypt 6 1/2" HLCD Tower Speakers
2 Krypt Tower Cans

For now, I will not be installing a head unit. I will be supplying tunes through an old iPhone 4, that is no longer being used as a phone. I may eventually add a head unit, but for now, this is the setup...

I will power all of the Polk speakers from the Polk Amp and will power the Krypt HLCDs off the Rockford Fosgate Amp. The JL Audio RLC will be utilized to increase the input level of the iPhone into the amps and will also allow me to control the tower speaker levels with the control knob that controls the level of one set of the outputs.

I will be building custom fiberglass boxes for all of the Polk speakers in order to be able to avoid cutting holes in my Viper Customs interior or in the fiberglass. The only hole I will have to drill in the boat will be to install the tower speaker wiring connector.

After a little investigation this weekend, it appears that there is a piece of marine plywood glassed into the interior of the wall under the observer's seat on the side closest to the walk through to the bow. I believe that I will mount the amps and the RLC on that wall.

I will try to remember to take pictures throughout the installation process and update this thread as I complete items. I am still waiting on a couple of components to arrive, but hopefully will be building the box bases sometime this week or next weekend.

I still have to figure out how I'm going to run wires from under the observer's seat over to the dash side. I am assuming that I can run them under the floor, but I'm not sure if they have to go through at the front of the engine compartment, or if there is a way to snake them under the ski locker. Additional exploration is in order there...
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:51 AM
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Clack Clack is offline
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Where are you thinking about putting the sub? My 209 stereo install goes down tomorrow and the guy thinks he's going to try to make a box under the driver's side.
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Old 04-30-2014, 11:28 AM
wilsonck wilsonck is offline
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make sure to include pictures. I am thinking of putting those Polk Audio MM 6501 speakers in my 2002 209.
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:43 PM
02ProstarSammyD 02ProstarSammyD is offline
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Clack you can always put it under the passenger side. There is just enough room for a sub box and battery box. Doesn't take up too much usable room



Triple when I ran my wiring for my remote, bass control, etc from the passenger side I just ran them around the front. You can put them in a loom and fasten them out of view. It is easy to access the wires from under the wheel to under the bow seat.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:21 PM
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Clack:
I'm going to put the sub under the dash actually in the corner where the front wall meets the starboard side, in a custom made fiberglass enclosure that will sit right in the corner. The speaker rings are on the way to be able to mock everything up.

I hope to get the fiberglass bases laid up this weekend. I plan to build in recessed areas in the back of each box where the binding posts will be installed and leave enough room for the banana plugs as well as create a little recessed channel for the speaker wire to lay in. It should be a pretty trick setup (assuming I can pull it all off).

02ProStarDammyD
Thanks for the advice on running the speaker wires. How thick is that piece of wood that is glassed into the wall on the starboard side of the observer's seat where you have your amps mounted? Did you just screw your amps right to that side?

I'm avoiding putting the sub under that area to leave room for buoys, an oar and some dock line.

wilsonck
I am planning on taking photos of the whole process.


I ordered up the power and ground wire, distribution blocks, fuse holders, banana plugs, binding posts, a NEUTRIK NL8MPR SPEAKON CONNECTOR (for the tower speakers), and I found a great deal on a 25' pre made SPEAKON wire with male NEUTRIK connectors on both ends for less than I could buy the 8 conductor wire for. I'll just have to cut off one of the connectors (and that way I'll have a spare).
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:12 PM
02ProstarSammyD 02ProstarSammyD is offline
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Quote:
02ProStarDammyD
Thanks for the advice on running the speaker wires. How thick is that piece of wood that is glassed into the wall on the starboard side of the observer's seat where you have your amps mounted? Did you just screw your amps right to that side?

I'm avoiding putting the sub under that area to leave room for buoys, an oar and some dock line.
Think I used 1/2" screws but yes its directly mounted to it. You can pull back the carpet or feel where the ply is. My oar is actually right next to the sub mounted on the wall. You can retrieve it from the front (never plan on doing so). I also mounted 2 eyelets and a carbiner on my rear hatches to hold a bag of dockline and hang bumpers. I found that no matter what I ended up with a bag of my girls crap and everyone elses stuff under the passenger seat. At that point its too aggrivating to go digging around in there for bumpers, etc. All that stuff goes in rear hatch now. Good deal on the speakon too! I used them for my tower speakers and love it. Can't wait to see this sub enclosure. Might have to rethink on a future boat.
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Old 05-04-2014, 04:28 PM
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I started prepping the boat for the creation of the speaker enclosures today.

The sub will be installed in the corner under the steering wheel and dash.


The preparation involves taping off the area where the fiberglass will be laid to create the back of the speaker cabinet.


The same procedure is used in the areas where the 6 1/2" Components will be installed, which is the side storage compartments.


So, once they all are prepped, they look like this...
Starboard Rear


Port Rear


Port Front


Starboard Front


Next steps will involve laying up the fiberglass that will form the cabinet backs. And, yes, I do realize that the carpet is filthy. I haven't cleaned it since I bought the boat last July. We were too excited to just use it all summer. After I get this installation complete, I plan to give it a good cleaning. No point in doing it now, as I will be tracking stuff in and out while completing this project.
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:49 AM
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rek rek is offline
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Subscribed. Take lots of pics very interested in your project. Looks like you have some great gear going in.

I'm using the JL Audio cl-rlc in our X9. Mounted it under the clarion remote. Here's a pic:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0x...it?usp=sharing

Left room to mount another one to independently control in cabin speakers vs tower speakers later on. Works great. Excellent solution as we do blue tooth audio 99% of the time.

Running wire is easy on our 2003. There are small pieces of 3" PVC pipe in fiberglass mounted every few feet from port to starbard side. I just shoot wires alongside all the other wires in the boat and through the PVC pipe that I can reach. Where I can't....zip ties....are your friend.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:45 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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I've had the Polk D5000.5 for 2 years now and it's great. Runs cool and efficiently with lots of power.

If you're only running a single sub I'd reconsider your choice based on the fact that the D5000.5 is 1 ohm stable on the sub channel. With a Polk Audio MM1040 UM you're talking about a single 4 ohm voice coil which the amp will only deliver 200 watts RMS. If you opt for the Polk Audio MM1040 DVC then you will do better as you can wire them in parallel for a 2 ohm load where the amp will push 400 watts to the sub. The ideal single sub for the amp though is one with a 2 ohm dual voice coil which you can wire in parallel for a 1 ohm load to which the amp will push 500 watts.

Given that I wouldn't even consider the MM1040 UM as an option (Even if you were planning on a second sub later). The MM1040 DVC would definitely be a lot louder and a more suitable option (And could be setup in a 1 ohm configuration should you decide to add a second sub later). There are not very many dual 2 ohm voice coil subs so your options are limited. Fortunately there's at least one fantastic option meeting that criteria. I run an Image Dynamics IDQ10 D2 in a parallel/1 ohm configuration and it does very well. The amp never complains or gets any more than warm to the touch after long runs at high volume with the 1 ohm load.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:38 PM
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TripleThreat TripleThreat is offline
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Took a break from working on stereo installation stuff and refinished the swim platform and installed a stainless retractable ladder this weekend...

Thread here:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...11#post1043011

and then this afternoon, I spent some time laying out the components for the amp install.

I decided that I would mount everything to a 3/4" thick piece of plywood, which I will end up painting with some textured paint once I get everything completely laid out.

Here's the initial setup...



I used Rockford Fosgate terminal blocks and StreetWires fuse holders. The JL CL RLC sends a straight signal through to the Polk that will power cabin speakers and the sub and an adjustable level to the Rockford Fosgate amp that will power the Krypt HLCD tower speakers. The Polk amp does have a remote sub level control as well, so I'll be able to independently control the sub level and the tower speakers while controlling the cabin speakers from the iPhone.

The next step is to get some wire retainers and get everything looking nice and neat and then disassemble it all for paint.

This will make installing everything in the boat so much easier, since I will just be able to leave everything on this board and screw it to the wall under the observer's seat.

Cabinet construction begins mid week for the cabin speakers and the sub...
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Last edited by TripleThreat; 05-11-2014 at 10:41 PM.
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