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  #41  
Old 12-22-2013, 08:14 PM
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ksulliv ksulliv is offline
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Yah. For some reason the gelcoat on the transom is super thin too. There were some spots that I could already feel the flake before I even touched it. The dark spots seem thicker but around the decals was thin.
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  #42  
Old 12-22-2013, 08:57 PM
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ksulliv ksulliv is offline
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By the way, for people who have had trouble removing decals, the 3M stripe off wheel worked wonders. Those baked on suckers were taking forever with a heat gun and razor blades so I decided to give the wheel a try. I had the whole boat done in 45 min instead of 20 min per star.
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  #43  
Old 01-08-2014, 08:58 PM
BrandonKTM BrandonKTM is offline
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Thanks guy...just saved me a bunch of time with pontoon decals I'm working on!
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  #44  
Old 01-09-2014, 01:28 PM
cruiser cruiser is offline
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  #45  
Old 01-09-2014, 04:23 PM
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03geetee 03geetee is offline
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Originally Posted by ksulliv View Post
Yah. For some reason the gelcoat on the transom is super thin too. There were some spots that I could already feel the flake before I even touched it. The dark spots seem thicker but around the decals was thin.

The dark areas behind the swim platform are just the same on my boat. The fade or lighter areas of the rest of the boat are referred to as gelcoat separation. It is almost like a clear coat over the flake that has oxidized from the underside, and from the top. When you buff the boat in all the other areas exposed to direct sunlight and 30 years of oxidation you are removing only what you can from the top, which helps. The under side where the separation from the flake has occurred cannot be reached unless you sand all the way down to the flake and re clear coat or gel coat the boat.

I learned a lot refurbishing mine from the only guy I trust with a rotary buffer other than myself. He is amazing at what he does and specializes in boats.

Long story short that nice dark color you see behind the swim platform is what the entire boat used to look like and has not suffered near as much oxidation on top, or any separation on the bottom. Trying to buff that out is actually making a good area look worse which wont happen. It is amazing to see how deep and red the flake must have been off the showroom floor. I have gotten her close, but no where near that deep of a red.

JTR
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  #46  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:28 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksulliv View Post
By the way, for people who have had trouble removing decals, the 3M stripe off wheel worked wonders. Those baked on suckers were taking forever with a heat gun and razor blades so I decided to give the wheel a try. I had the whole boat done in 45 min instead of 20 min per star.
got my old decals of in minutes.. this looks too easy to overheat.. Just my opinion...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHKN5_UfDik
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  #47  
Old 01-15-2014, 05:36 PM
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ksulliv ksulliv is offline
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Thanks JTR, that's interesting. I can't believe the whole boat used to look like that; oh what the sun can do! I stopped messing with it because it didn't appear to be helping anyway so now I definitely won't touch it anymore.

The stripe off wheel didn't seem to get the gelcoat warm at all. I started at a lower than suggested RPM and worked my way up.
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  #48  
Old 04-05-2014, 06:30 PM
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ksulliv ksulliv is offline
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Hey All,

I'm trying to remove the steering column and I'm not sure exactly how to do it. It has a notched out piece that does not allow me to push it through the back of the dash (pic 1). To remove it do I have to take apart the whole helm just to remove the shaft? I first tried to just remove the nut in pic 2 but that didn't work. I stopped there because I didn't want to screw anything up. It's a teleflex system. Thanks!
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  #49  
Old 04-07-2014, 07:38 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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Remove the key, it did not grow there.
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  #50  
Old 04-07-2014, 12:55 PM
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ksulliv ksulliv is offline
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It can't be removed unfortunately.
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