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  #21  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:28 AM
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Oil that sits for a long time will break down and loses it's thermal protective abilities.

I always tell people that your oil starts to break down at it's half life. after that it is all downhill and doesn't perform like new. So if you have ocd you will change it when the oil is not lubricating like it did when new. If you are not you will change it when it is at its minimum recommended abilities. people who think oil break down is a farce will not change it as they believe time has nothing to do with breakdown.

They are dead wrong

It is always best to change your oil as recommended.

It's pretty cheap too.

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  #22  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:29 AM
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Yahoo and oil discussion..
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  #23  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:29 AM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Originally Posted by Traxx822 View Post
Wow, everyone is all over the spectrum here. Oil is bs, synth is the same, head in an oil can, ocd do it, maybe if you're going to sell it.

Here I will lay it down for you.

Oil starts to break down after about 25 hours. (1500 miles or half life( 1500 miles/60mph=25 hours)) this is how you get your 50 hour interval recommendation. And needs replaced at 3000 miles or 50 hours.

Now, we know engine oil does age. The age effects conductivity (newer less conductive, older more conductive) This directly correlates with thermal protective efficiency. Dino oil after 3 months is not safe to run in your engine. After 1.5 months it is already starting to break down.

You may get more time out of SHC oil vs Hydrocracked oils but they all break down.

I would recommend people just replace their oil anytime they feel it is dirty.

My work vans are on a 2000 mile interval. My personal truck is on a 3000 mile interval and my boat is on a 30 hour interval. I use synthetic SHC oils only.
Oil doesn't break down. The VI improvers and other components of the additive package break down and combustion byproducts and contaminants accumulate beyond the capacity of the detergents to keep in suspension (equally true of Dino and synthetic). Group II base stocks (hydro cracked) don't need nearly so much VI improver, therefore the extended drain interval recommend by modern auto mfgrs.

I disagree with your erroneous (IMHO) assertions above.
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  #24  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:33 AM
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so then you should change it at the end of the season and the start of the season after it sits then? Then durring the season depending on how many hours you put on the boat? Just asking..
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:35 AM
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So... I am assuming everyone wants to change their oil with winterizing because of the contaminates in the oil from use during summer? If the oil sits all winter does it still break down? I changed the oil mid summer because my Uncle couldn't remember if he had changed it at the end of the season last year, probably put 25 or so hours on it since the change.. And I wasn't planning on changing it until the start of next seasons..
No, it doesn't break down just sitting. But combustion byproducts (acids) just sitting there and not circulating aren't great, and you do get some condensation as the oil cools after your last run. It's probably not a big deal in the short run, but it's one reason to consider changing the oil at the end of the season. Nothing to do with oil breakdown.
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  #26  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:37 AM
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OK I get it, so as long as you change the oil and dont start it again it should be fine to run at for the next season?
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  #27  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:38 AM
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oil - VR-1 Synth 5 quarts - 45.00 ish - napa gold 1069 filter 8. New engine.. - just sayin' - not that I think not changing oil over a season with 6 hours would make that much difference.

it's a boat - you are required to spend copious amounts of cash to make her happy no?

www.bobistheoilguy.com - more information than you will ever need.. .. PAO is the way to go... just prodding..
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  #28  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
oil - VR-1 Synth 5 quarts - 45.00 ish - napa gold 1069 filter 8. New engine.. - just sayin' - not that I think not changing oil over a season with 6 hours would make that much difference.

it's a boat - you are required to spend copious amounts of cash to make her happy no?

www.bobistheoilguy.com - more information than you will ever need.. .. PAO is the way to go... just prodding..
Nothing wrong with synthetic oils. Great stuff, and useful, even crucial in some applications. Just not in ski boats following mfgr's oil change recommendations. Won't hurt a thing though. Cost difference is minimal, and like 2000 mile drain intervals, it gives some people peace of mind.
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  #29  
Old 10-08-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by KxCorky View Post
OK I get it, so as long as you change the oil and dont start it again it should be fine to run at for the next season?
It's really easy to overthink oil. Just follow the engine mfgr's recommendations. You'll be fine.
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  #30  
Old 10-08-2013, 12:04 PM
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http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...ion-monitoring I added this link to show what I am trying to convey.

I'm talking about conductivity and ESC effects Big Mac. This is the only thing that time does to oil. When I say "Breaks down" i'm referring to from its original abilities. You are right as the oil itself doesn't break down but the metal-organic additives and their ability to deter heat. I don't think that means I'm erroneous.
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