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Old 10-01-2013, 03:25 PM
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onewheat onewheat is offline
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Boat: 2013 Mastercraft X-25 with the awesome 6.2
Location: BG, KY
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Originally Posted by ohiojohn View Post
Do you change the engine oil for winterization and start the 50 hour count all over again in the spring ?


Yes - don't let used (acidic) oil st in the engine all year. Change it and start the count over. If you are due a change near the end of the season, better to go a bit long than change it, use it another ten hours and then let dirty oil sit, but oil changes are cheap, so if in doubt - change it.

2013 X-25
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Old 10-01-2013, 10:15 PM
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ohiojohn ohiojohn is offline
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OK Great
Thanks for the answer

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Old 10-02-2013, 01:08 AM
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wheelerd wheelerd is offline
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Boat: 2005 X2
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Originally Posted by bjen View Post
Biggest pain for me was dealing with the impeller, its pretty tight to get at.
I pop the whole raw water pump off the crankshaft pulley. It's just three bolts with Allen heads and a bolt in the support bracket. Takes all of 2 minutes. My muffler makes it virtually impossible to access the impeller.
2005 X2, Viper Red, MCX, OJ TZ-X5 prop, PPass, rear 750 sacs, KBS, IBS, Bennett Wake Plate, custom wake shaper
(previous) 2001 X5, 1991 TriStar 190
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Old 10-24-2013, 01:31 PM
DBrown2 DBrown2 is offline
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I never responded after my post... I followed the Youtube Video post after watching it 2 or 3 times. The processes is exactly the same only difference is the plug location or hoses but the idea is spot on. I had no trouble locating the hoses or two block plugs. I started with the block plugs and at first was like Wow that wasnt much water but then I unscrewed the drains for the Exhaust Lines and then it flowed big time, and the more hoses I unclamped the more it ran out of the block area.

Only item that is split is to drain the oil now or drain it before the beginning of the season. My oil is not even at half the hours use, so I was waiting till the start of the season.

Also note my boat does stay in a climate controlled area via Electricity but in the event of power outage I do have backup power via propane heat...
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Old 10-24-2013, 03:42 PM
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willyt willyt is offline
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change that oil man.

dont forget to fog the cylinders
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:00 PM
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MattsCraft MattsCraft is offline
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Boat: 2013 X25 - 6.2 Ilmor Baby
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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OK - Sorry no video, however these are the instructions I put together for the buyer of my '09 X2 with an MCX.

Supply List:





Oil - 15W–40 Shell Rotella T – If you do the transmission you will need at least 2 gallons – Sams used to carry this in 3 gallon box's not sure anymore?
Filter – Napa Gold 1060 (Large) or 1069 (Standard)
RV Antifreeze – 5 gallons for engine – about 4 gallons for ballast & Heater - -50 minimum – I buy the green @ -200 (Green) and mix 50/50 for –100 protection

Your boat has the Perko flush pro, makes life much easier to run on the trailer.

Step 1 – Warm Engine for Oil Change
Add Sta-Bil to the gas – Fill her up – You can get this with fogging oil in it – I never trusted it – See fogging section later
Connect garden hose to the Perko
Turn on water at low pressure or you can crack the Perko
Start engine
Immediately turn water on full pressure
Run at idle or up to 1500 RPM, nothing higher – DO NOT RUN IN GEAR – You will damage the strut bearing – Neutral Only
Run for at least 15 minutes, 20 if it is cold outside
Back off water pressure and shut down

Step 2 – Change Oil
Remove rear locker side panels
Oil drain is clipped to the engine block Port side rear of engine brass fitting (Note engine in a V Drive sits backwards, rear is toward the front of the boat)
Un-clip – You will need 2 C wrenches to remove plug I think 1/2" or 3/8"
You can route this out the rear bilge drain and drain into a pail, takes a long time or purchase the pump above and done in 5 minutes
After the oil is drained - re–insert plug and clip back to the engine
Remove oil filter – Starboard side, low and near rear of the engine – I slip a plastic bag around it to keep the oil from spilling into the bilge – You will most likely need a filter wrench to loosen
Make sure the rubber gasket is still on the old filter and not stuck to the filter connection
Lubricate the new filter rubber gasket with fresh oil – I fill the filter about 3/4 full before replacing – Tighten as tight as you can by hand only – Do Not Wrench It Tight
Fill with new oil – Start with 1 gallon if you added oil to the filter – Capacity is 5.5 quarts – Do not over-fill
Start engine again (See Above)– Check for leaks around the filter – Shut down
Add oil until full

Step 3 – Change Transmission Oil
Remove transmission dip stick – Starboard Side top of transmission – Orange Handle
Suck out oil with your new handy pump – Important – Start with the pump empty – This is the only way to change the transmission oil
Move the hose around to make sure you get as much oil out as possible
Replace with the same amount you sucked out – 15W40 engine oil
Check level without screwing in the dip stick, just place on the threads
Remove filter – It is on the port side of the transmission – Allen head bolt
This is a metal filter – only needs to be cleaned with gas or carb cleaner

Step 4 - Winterizing
Prep your antifreeze and have ready on the back of the boat
The next steps you have to move quickly otherwise the thermostat will close
Start engine
Bring up to temp (160 degrees)
Shut down
Quickly remove knock sensors and block drains – Block drains are 1" - Be careful on the Port side as it is easy to arc the wrench against the starter (having 2 people is a big plus for this step)
Water will be hot – Let drain – Disconnect exhaust hose fitting – This is a rubber hose with brass standard fittings (runs across transmission) drain & re-connect
While draining – disconnect the garden hose from the Perko
Place the little black fitting into the Perko – This is important – Places pressure on the spring allowing the antifreeze to flow
Connect the flush kit hose
Close the raw water pet **** intake
Replace drain plugs and knock sensors – Hand tight is fine
Start engine – Run until the 5 gallons is sucked up – This will go pretty quick
Shut down
These next steps are optional – But what I do to sleep well at night when it is friggin below zero outside
Drain again – leave plugs out until spring – Including exhaust drains
Remove raw water impeller – The impeller is at the front of the engine low in the bilge – 4 brass screws
Remove the plate – squirt a few times with WD40
Bump the starter to distribute/lube the impeller
Get 2 paint can openers place on either side and work it out
Remove the elbow on the transmission cooler – Starboard side near engine front – low
Stick you finger up into the cooler – you will feel a screen – remove any debris
Remove each spark plug
Spray fogging oil into each cylinder
Bump starter to distribute
Do not fog using the air intake method – you will foul the O2 Sensors
Purchase a K&N air filter cleaning kit
Remove – Clean and re-oil

Step 5 – Winterize Heater
Remove the heater hose connection at faucet shut off – Port side – Front top of engine
Blow with compressed air or a shop vacuum will work
Place a funnel in the hose and add as much antifreeze as it will take
Blow through again

Step 6 – Winterize Ballast
On the 2 rears – Remove the ballast bags with the quick connects
Make sure to run each pump to make sure most of the water is out
Add 1 gallon or more to each ballast tank
The fill for the rears – The one coming out of the floor – Place a funnel and pour in anti-freeze
Run the pump on empty until antifreeze squirts out of the bottom of the boat
Switch to fill for a few seconds
Run on empty again until you hear it squirt
The KGB needs to be added from the overflow
I never remember which one this is – It is one of the two near the helm
Run the front bilge pump – from outside the boat you can feel the air coming out of the fitting
Add antifreeze to the other one – If you run the pump on empty it will take much better
Follow above routine for the rears

Now see, this is an easy job, ha. I place the engine drain plugs and impeller in a plastic bag and zip tie to the steering wheel. Be sure you replace these in the spring.
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Old 10-24-2013, 04:56 PM
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willyt willyt is offline
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matt, you forgot to list the beer
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:24 PM
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MattsCraft MattsCraft is offline
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Boat: 2013 X25 - 6.2 Ilmor Baby
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^^^ Indeed Willy gotta have some beers with all these steps
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Old 10-24-2013, 07:30 PM
Indyxc Indyxc is offline
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Boat: 2006 Mastercraft X2
Location: Midwest
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Originally Posted by wheelerd View Post
I pop the whole raw water pump off the crankshaft pulley. It's just three bolts with Allen heads and a bolt in the support bracket. Takes all of 2 minutes. My muffler makes it virtually impossible to access the impeller.
Same for me. I found it is easier to remove the impeller housing, than pulling the muffler.

On a side note, the ZF Hurth G30v, besides oil change doesn't require water draining? I didn't see any water running to it, which is the first I've seen on a vdrive.
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Old 10-24-2013, 09:55 PM
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93Prostar190 93Prostar190 is offline
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Boat: 2008 Prostar 214, MCX, Mini-Tower
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Great write up Matt!
Keep a tight line, and a smile on your face. Peace out.
2008 Prostar 214 MCX
Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40

"Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."
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