2013 X-25 - Love it!
2007 X-15 - Sadly no longer mine
"For every complex problem there is an answer that is clear, simple, and wrong." (Henry Louis Mencken)
2005 X2, Viper Red, MCX, Acme 1285, PPass, rear 750 sacs, KGB, IBS, Bennett Wake Plate
(previous) 2001 X5, 1991 TriStar 190
I never responded after my post... I followed the Youtube Video post after watching it 2 or 3 times. The processes is exactly the same only difference is the plug location or hoses but the idea is spot on. I had no trouble locating the hoses or two block plugs. I started with the block plugs and at first was like Wow that wasnt much water but then I unscrewed the drains for the Exhaust Lines and then it flowed big time, and the more hoses I unclamped the more it ran out of the block area.
Only item that is split is to drain the oil now or drain it before the beginning of the season. My oil is not even at half the hours use, so I was waiting till the start of the season.
Also note my boat does stay in a climate controlled area via Electricity but in the event of power outage I do have backup power via propane heat...
OK - Sorry no video, however these are the instructions I put together for the buyer of my '09 X2 with an MCX.
Oil - 15W40 Shell Rotella T If you do the transmission you will need at least 2 gallons Sams used to carry this in 3 gallon box's not sure anymore?
Filter Napa Gold 1060 (Large) or 1069 (Standard)
RV Antifreeze 5 gallons for engine about 4 gallons for ballast & Heater - -50 minimum I buy the green @ -200 (Green) and mix 50/50 for 100 protection
Your boat has the Perko flush pro, makes life much easier to run on the trailer.
Step 1 Warm Engine for Oil Change
Add Sta-Bil to the gas Fill her up You can get this with fogging oil in it I never trusted it See fogging section later
Connect garden hose to the Perko
Turn on water at low pressure or you can crack the Perko
Immediately turn water on full pressure
Run at idle or up to 1500 RPM, nothing higher DO NOT RUN IN GEAR You will damage the strut bearing Neutral Only
Run for at least 15 minutes, 20 if it is cold outside
Back off water pressure and shut down
Step 2 Change Oil
Remove rear locker side panels
Oil drain is clipped to the engine block Port side rear of engine brass fitting (Note engine in a V Drive sits backwards, rear is toward the front of the boat)
Un-clip You will need 2 C wrenches to remove plug I think 1/2" or 3/8"
You can route this out the rear bilge drain and drain into a pail, takes a long time or purchase the pump above and done in 5 minutes
After the oil is drained - reinsert plug and clip back to the engine
Remove oil filter Starboard side, low and near rear of the engine I slip a plastic bag around it to keep the oil from spilling into the bilge You will most likely need a filter wrench to loosen
Make sure the rubber gasket is still on the old filter and not stuck to the filter connection
Lubricate the new filter rubber gasket with fresh oil I fill the filter about 3/4 full before replacing Tighten as tight as you can by hand only Do Not Wrench It Tight
Fill with new oil Start with 1 gallon if you added oil to the filter Capacity is 5.5 quarts Do not over-fill
Start engine again (See Above) Check for leaks around the filter Shut down
Add oil until full
Step 3 Change Transmission Oil
Remove transmission dip stick Starboard Side top of transmission Orange Handle
Suck out oil with your new handy pump Important Start with the pump empty This is the only way to change the transmission oil
Move the hose around to make sure you get as much oil out as possible
Replace with the same amount you sucked out 15W40 engine oil
Check level without screwing in the dip stick, just place on the threads
Remove filter It is on the port side of the transmission Allen head bolt
This is a metal filter only needs to be cleaned with gas or carb cleaner
Step 4 - Winterizing
Prep your antifreeze and have ready on the back of the boat
The next steps you have to move quickly otherwise the thermostat will close
Bring up to temp (160 degrees)
Quickly remove knock sensors and block drains Block drains are 1" - Be careful on the Port side as it is easy to arc the wrench against the starter (having 2 people is a big plus for this step)
Water will be hot Let drain Disconnect exhaust hose fitting This is a rubber hose with brass standard fittings (runs across transmission) drain & re-connect
While draining disconnect the garden hose from the Perko
Place the little black fitting into the Perko This is important Places pressure on the spring allowing the antifreeze to flow
Connect the flush kit hose
Close the raw water pet **** intake
Replace drain plugs and knock sensors Hand tight is fine
Start engine Run until the 5 gallons is sucked up This will go pretty quick
These next steps are optional But what I do to sleep well at night when it is friggin below zero outside
Drain again leave plugs out until spring Including exhaust drains
Remove raw water impeller The impeller is at the front of the engine low in the bilge 4 brass screws
Remove the plate squirt a few times with WD40
Bump the starter to distribute/lube the impeller
Get 2 paint can openers place on either side and work it out
Remove the elbow on the transmission cooler Starboard side near engine front low
Stick you finger up into the cooler you will feel a screen remove any debris
Remove each spark plug
Spray fogging oil into each cylinder
Bump starter to distribute
Do not fog using the air intake method you will foul the O2 Sensors
Purchase a K&N air filter cleaning kit
Remove Clean and re-oil
Step 5 Winterize Heater
Remove the heater hose connection at faucet shut off Port side Front top of engine
Blow with compressed air or a shop vacuum will work
Place a funnel in the hose and add as much antifreeze as it will take
Blow through again
Step 6 Winterize Ballast
On the 2 rears Remove the ballast bags with the quick connects
Make sure to run each pump to make sure most of the water is out
Add 1 gallon or more to each ballast tank
The fill for the rears The one coming out of the floor Place a funnel and pour in anti-freeze
Run the pump on empty until antifreeze squirts out of the bottom of the boat
Switch to fill for a few seconds
Run on empty again until you hear it squirt
The KGB needs to be added from the overflow
I never remember which one this is It is one of the two near the helm
Run the front bilge pump from outside the boat you can feel the air coming out of the fitting
Add antifreeze to the other one If you run the pump on empty it will take much better
Follow above routine for the rears
Now see, this is an easy job, ha. I place the engine drain plugs and impeller in a plastic bag and zip tie to the steering wheel. Be sure you replace these in the spring.
On a side note, the ZF Hurth G30v, besides oil change doesn't require water draining? I didn't see any water running to it, which is the first I've seen on a vdrive.
Great write up Matt!
Keep a tight line, and a smile on your face. Peace out.
2008 Prostar 214 MCX
Previous 93 Prostar 190 1.5:1 GT40
"Left Foot Forward and preferring girls."