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  #11  
Old 04-15-2014, 12:51 AM
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jsturvey jsturvey is offline
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You definitely have my attention on this. Definitely post what you find out for us fellow LT1 owners.


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  #12  
Old 04-17-2014, 03:40 PM
MrTsuth MrTsuth is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, maristar 225v, 1996, LT1
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1. Overheating, after how long?
After about 7-10 minutes of running at 2500 - 3000 RPMS
2. Is this in the water, or on a trailer?
In the water
3. That sender you replaced- one wire?
The two wire with yellow and black wires
4. Do you have a multi-meter?
I will try this tomorrow and post the resistance.
5. Have you replaced the water circulating pump?
No, I have not done that yet.

I am going to replace the 143 thermostat before trying the above items. I am finding that some of the water lines are getting water through them, and some of them are not. IE: the exhaust lines seem to have flowing water and keep cool, others seem as if they are starving for water. To me that either sounds like one of the thermostats or the pump..... More likely a thermostat....

Quick question... Is the 143 Thermostat that is located just above the impeller the same style as the 160 thermostat located on the top? Or should I pull it out and try and match it up before I head to the parts store?

Thank you guys for all of your assistance. It is TRULY appreciated!
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  #13  
Old 04-17-2014, 10:54 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTsuth View Post
1. Overheating, after how long?
After about 7-10 minutes of running at 2500 - 3000 RPMS
2. Is this in the water, or on a trailer?
In the water
3. That sender you replaced- one wire?
The two wire with yellow and black wires
4. Do you have a multi-meter?
I will try this tomorrow and post the resistance.
5. Have you replaced the water circulating pump?
No, I have not done that yet.

I am going to replace the 143 thermostat before trying the above items. I am finding that some of the water lines are getting water through them, and some of them are not. IE: the exhaust lines seem to have flowing water and keep cool, others seem as if they are starving for water. To me that either sounds like one of the thermostats or the pump..... More likely a thermostat....

Quick question... Is the 143 Thermostat that is located just above the impeller the same style as the 160 thermostat located on the top? Or should I pull it out and try and match it up before I head to the parts store?

Thank you guys for all of your assistance. It is TRULY appreciated!
Does one of the thermostats have at least one hole in it?

If not, someone who has an LT-1 will be along to give you the part number, or mod one without, so it "bleeds" properly.
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  #14  
Old 04-17-2014, 10:58 PM
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FoggyNogginz FoggyNogginz is offline
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Just for clarity, be sure to pull the hose from the oil cooler and ensure that you don't have impeller parts lodged up against it as well. This is a very common problem on the Indmar systems with Johnson pumps. Once the impeller goes a little bad, the parts are commonly found against the oil cooler screen, clogging the system and preventing cooling.
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  #15  
Old 04-17-2014, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoggyNogginz View Post
Just for clarity, be sure to pull the hose from the oil cooler and ensure that you don't have impeller parts lodged up against it as well. This is a very common problem on the Indmar systems with Johnson pumps. Once the impeller goes a little bad, the parts are commonly found against the oil cooler screen, clogging the system and preventing cooling.
That's only on the boats after the LT-1. They relocated the oil cooler in about '99.
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  #16  
Old 04-17-2014, 11:04 PM
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FoggyNogginz FoggyNogginz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
That's only on the boats after the LT-1. They relocated the oil cooler in about '99.
Gotcha. I stand corrected.
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  #17  
Old 04-19-2014, 11:28 AM
MrTsuth MrTsuth is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, maristar 225v, 1996, LT1
Location: Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
Does one of the thermostats have at least one hole in it?

If not, someone who has an LT-1 will be along to give you the part number, or mod one without, so it "bleeds" properly.
So I got down to removing the 2nd Tstat and decided since I was down that far already I would replace the water pump...

My question is this.... Will a standard LT1 water pump suffice if I cap the extra heater port coming out of it? Indmar wants $550 bucks for theirs, NAPA wants $100.00 for the standard corvette LT1 water pump. Capping the heater port should be simple and we'll worth $400 savings if that is an ok thing to do...

Will that work ok?
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  #18  
Old 04-19-2014, 11:45 AM
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Table Rocker Table Rocker is offline
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Boat: '96 ProStar 205, Sammy Duvall, LT-1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTsuth View Post
So I got down to removing the 2nd Tstat and decided since I was down that far already I would replace the water pump...

My question is this.... Will a standard LT1 water pump suffice if I cap the extra heater port coming out of it? Indmar wants $550 bucks for theirs, NAPA wants $100.00 for the standard corvette LT1 water pump. Capping the heater port should be simple and we'll worth $400 savings if that is an ok thing to do...

Will that work ok?
The water pump is not a "marine" part and the auto version will do fine. A '92 Corvette LT-1 water pump does not have the extra ports that you would have to block off. Does your boat have a heater? You can use a pump with the extra port to relocate your heater hose for better heat.
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  #19  
Old 04-19-2014, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTsuth View Post
So I got down to removing the 2nd Tstat and decided since I was down that far already I would replace the water pump...

My question is this.... Will a standard LT1 water pump suffice if I cap the extra heater port coming out of it? Indmar wants $550 bucks for theirs, NAPA wants $100.00 for the standard corvette LT1 water pump. Capping the heater port should be simple and we'll worth $400 savings if that is an ok thing to do...

Will that work ok?
You don't need to go to Indmar for the pump, but it absolutely MUST be for an LT-1 because this engine uses 'reverse-cooling', which means the heads are cooled before the block and no other pump will work.

Yes- cap off the heater port and you're good.

If your pump is working, there's no reason to replace it.
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  #20  
Old 04-19-2014, 02:19 PM
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Table Rocker Table Rocker is offline
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The LT-1 water pump is shaft driven, so the chances of putting the wrong pump on without realizing it are very slim. You would need a pulley and a different belt, etc.

I agree, if the pump is not leaking there is no reason to replace it. If it is leaking, you should replace it, but it isn't as urgent as a closed loop system.
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2000 rpms, bogging, flooded, starving

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