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  #21  
Old 10-06-2013, 11:16 PM
Zad Zad is offline
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Isn't it necessary to get the engine up to operating temperature before running the antifreeze through? Something about thermostats opening? If so, wouldn't it be a waste of time to run more antifreeze through?
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  #22  
Old 10-07-2013, 07:32 AM
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Yes.. you are correct... or you could pull the t-stat and pour atf thru housing... just need a new gasket -
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  #23  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:08 AM
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Burbon66 Burbon66 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VP46 View Post
I have nothing to add except - glad I live where there is no concern about a deep freeze. That is all.
Yep me too. All I need to do is disconnect the battery and put the cover on for winter.
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  #24  
Old 10-07-2013, 10:05 AM
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Heated garage..... nuff said......
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  #25  
Old 10-07-2013, 10:22 AM
Zad Zad is offline
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To stop the worry, I pulled one of the block plugs and AF came out. Did the same with the risers or manifolds, whatever they are called and AF there too so I guess the T-stat opened. Anything else I should check?
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  #26  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:11 PM
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MattsCraft MattsCraft is offline
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Originally Posted by Zad View Post
Well, just finished my first winterization on my 2002 xstar. Filled a roughneck tub with water and kept the hose running. Ran a 1.25" hose from tub to water pump where raw water line connects. Ran the engine until temp reached 150 degrees. Changed oil. Ran again to get temps up. Shut off then emptied the tub of water and filled with 6 gallons of boat antifreeze and fired it up again and ran until the pink stuff came out the exhaust. Fogged engine.

Then did the ballast system which has a ball valve shutoff upstream from a T that allowed me to attach a short length of garden hose with the other end in a gallon of marine antifreeze. Ran each ballast pump until the antifreeze came through into a catch basin. Cleaned up and put the tarp on.

Am I done? Must admit, it is a bit freaky wondering if the antifreeze got to all the necessary places. Any suggestions on something I missed or should double check?
? - Did you drain the block water prior to running on antifreeze? If not you have at least 50% diluted antifreeze in the block. This is an important step or you need to start with a much higher freeze rating antifreeze. If you started with -25, I would suggest just dry blocking from here, empty the J hose and tranny elbow, blow out the heater if you have one and you would be safe.
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  #27  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattsCraft View Post
? - Did you drain the block water prior to running on antifreeze? If not you have at least 50% diluted antifreeze in the block. This is an important step or you need to start with a much higher freeze rating antifreeze. If you started with -25, I would suggest just dry blocking from here, empty the J hose and tranny elbow, blow out the heater if you have one and you would be safe.
Not a good plan to go through a Canadian winter without a healthy dose of antifreeze in the block. Dry is not usually an option.
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  #28  
Old 10-07-2013, 05:22 PM
Zad Zad is offline
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I did not drain before pumping full of AF. Will repeat the process again with a drain after bringing up to temp.
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  #29  
Old 10-08-2013, 05:54 PM
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I have been debating about sucking in antifreeze with the engine running or just pulling off the hoses at the thermostat housing and filling them with antifreeze. The latter is the way that I did my previous boat and it worked well. It had a GM vortec V6 with an outdrive. After I completely drained the block of water. I would take off the large hose at the thermostat housing and pour in antifreeze until it ran out the outdrive exhaust. It would take about 2 gallons, so you know it was filling up the block. Then I would remove the two smaller hoses and do the same thing. These would take about a 1/2 gallon before coming out of the exhaust. This was how a professional marine service guy taught me how to do it.

I haven't looked that closely at the MCX 350 engine yet, but shouldn't that same procedure work to fill the block on it?

My only worry is that if I run it up to temperature with water and then drain the block, that the engine would cool down enough to close the thermostat.

Last edited by blackhawk; 10-08-2013 at 06:05 PM. Reason: forgot something
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  #30  
Old 10-08-2013, 06:29 PM
Zad Zad is offline
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I wondered the same thing about the engine cooling down and the thermostat closing. I just repeated it all today again: running up to temp, draining the block and risers, adding 6 gallons of AF to the bucket, running until the AF was sucked up and fogging at the end. The time between shutting the engine down at 140 degrees, draining and starting up again was about 5 minutes and I hope to heck that wasn't enough time for the T-stat to close - I doubt it with all the mass of iron heated up. The boat is now in storage but easily reached so if this niggles at me I will go up and check the block/risers/t-stat hoses just to make sure there is AF in there. Steep learning curve as with all things new. Hopefully not so steep that I end up with something cracked.
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